Which engine? (1 Viewer)

[Dougal]

Only one thing needs said about the 15BFT. MEGACRUISER.

Trucks use long stroke 4 cylinder engines because they have great torque at low rpm and the best fuel economy. Passenger vehicles use 6 cylinder engines because they're smoother, quieter and spin faster.

Your currently tweaked 12HT should be around 200hp already. That should be ample power for a vehicle like that to safely cruise at highway speed and not waste all day going up hills.

 

[rideglobally]

Only one thing needs said about the 15BFT. MEGACRUISER.

Trucks use long stroke 4 cylinder engines because they have great torque at low rpm and the best fuel economy. Passenger vehicles use 6 cylinder engines because they're smoother, quieter and spin faster.

Your currently tweaked 12HT should be around 200hp already. That should be ample power for a vehicle like that to safely cruise at highway speed and not waste all day going up hills.

On my current set up i cruise on flat hwy at 80kph, 10PSI boost, @about 1000F EGT (my egt is before turbo). If i push it i can go up to 90kph @12 to 13psi boost, my egt temp would go to 1200 to 1300F. Mostly i cruise at 80kph. How much difference will it be on 15BFT or 1HD-FTE? Thx

 

[Nz Nath]

How much boost do you see flat out? Ie foot down up a hill. 1300f/700c egt is pretty hot. I would have thought you would get much more boost out of a gturbo at cruise if your egts are that high. If that's what you're wastgated to, then running more boost would be most people's advice. If the wastegate is set for much more boost than that, but you don't see it at cruise despite your egt, then that suggests something is wrong with your setup. Could be that your early model gturbo isn't great, or a restrictive inlet/air filter.

 

[Dougal]

On my current set up i cruise on flat hwy at 80kph, 10PSI boost, @about 1000F EGT (my egt is before turbo). If i push it i can go up to 90kph @12 to 13psi boost, my egt temp would go to 1200 to 1300F. Mostly i cruise at 80kph. How much difference will it be on 15BFT or 1HD-FTE? Thx

You're running a G-turbo but only to 13psi max? Are you intercooled?

A 1HD-FTE runs about 17psi stock to deliver the 440Nm/140kw in the 100 series. I put up post up here years ago after putting gauges on one.
Your 12HT would be about 15% less power for the same boost and EGT. Because it's 12v instead of 24v and has 5% less capacity.

20psi with a good intercooler and you'd have similar numbers.

 

[wedgetail]

Little light rigid jap trucks mostly 4cyl engines it’s true, but the medium and heavy truck sectors are almost entirely run on inline 6 cylinders.

A 1HD-FTE runs about 17psi stock to deliver the 440Nm/140kw in the 100 series.

Not sure where yours came from - stock FTEs generally run 12-14psi max. The ECU aggressively pulls fuel just under 16psi, you can only go over that with a boost T. And chip because it won’t add any more above that point.

 

[Silveredition]

You're running a G-turbo but only to 13psi max? Are you intercooled?

A 1HD-FTE runs about 17psi stock to deliver the 440Nm/140kw in the 100 series. I put up post up here years ago after putting gauges on one.
Your 12HT would be about 15% less power for the same boost and EGT. Because it's 12v instead of 24v and has 5% less capacity.

20psi with a good intercooler and you'd have similar numbers.

My 12ht has most mods that can be reasonably done without going silly… I am at (from memory) about 165hp and 550nm at the wheels. This is similar to a stock 200 series ttd at the wheels according to the dyno. It is more than a stock 1hdfte / 1hdft /1hz etc etc at the wheels. In saying this, my 200 series ttd s***s all over my 60 in every way!!! My stock, and later Safari-Tuned 100 series (with the s***ty 4speed auto that I hated) that I had previously did too!! The 60 is better than my 80 series with the 1hz - even with the gas injection that I added….
Dyno figures aren’t a real reflection on how it will drive and how it puts the power down.
My 60 with the h55f is essentially an auto once above 60.. put it in 5th and let it do its thing ( to the detriment of the gearbox). The 200 will use most of its 6 gears and feel a lot more sportily… The 100 with the 4 speed I would drive in manual mode as it would drop speed, kick down, take off ect…
In my opinion - Keep the 12ht /h55f combo and spend some $$ to get 200hp and 600Nm, or go all out and source a 200 series VDJ ttd V8 with the 6speed auto and associated electronics and get 400hp and 1000nm (once modified) and start breaking drive shafts / hubs / diffs and axles!!! (Maybe joking at the vdj conversion - but serious about keeping the 12ht for $, reliability and just the fact that it sounds like an old diesel commercial fishing boat!!!

 

[Dougal]

Little light rigid jap trucks mostly 4cyl engines it’s true, but the medium and heavy truck sectors are almost entirely run on inline 6 cylinders.


Not sure where yours came from - stock FTEs generally run 12-14psi max. The ECU aggressively pulls fuel just under 16psi, you can only go over that with a boost T. And chip because it won’t add any more above that point.

They come from putting gauges on a stock HDJ100 and driving it. I have a post here somewhere with all the figures at the time but I can't find it in an easy search. My recalled numbers should be closed.

Tested the 100 series 1HD-FTE stock and then put a boost T on it. We had a ~2psi window over stock before the ECU threw it's toys.

 

[wedgetail]

They come from putting gauges on a stock HDJ100 and driving it. I have a post here somewhere with all the figures at the time but I can't find it in an easy search. My recalled numbers should be closed.

Tested the 100 series 1HD-FTE stock and then put a boost T on it. We had a ~2psi window over stock before the ECU threw it's toys.

Any chance your gauge could be out? ECU shouldn’t let it go over 16 (that’s a set point layed out in the service manual), and every other stock set up I’ve measured or heard of won’t push much beyond 14 if it’s lucky. Most won’t even make it that far you need to boost T them. Same with the stock VDJ79s - stock max is around the 12 mark, not sure about vdj200s

 

[Dougal]

Any chance your gauge could be out? ECU shouldn’t let it go over 16 (that’s a set point layed out in the service manual), and every other stock set up I’ve measured or heard of won’t push much beyond 14 if it’s lucky. Most won’t even make it that far you need to boost T them. Same with the stock VDJ79s - stock max is around the 12 mark, not sure about vdj200s

I've never seen a gauge out by more than about 1psi. I put up a post up here at the time with the exact figures but I haven't been able to find it. My pressures were taken from the wastegate line.
Where is the ECU getting it's pressure signal from? Wastegate line or intake manifold?

 

[rideglobally]

You're running a G-turbo but only to 13psi max? Are you intercooled?

It will do a higher Boost but the problem is the EGT also goes up also. That is the reason i only run it at 13psi. It will go to 20psi no problem.

 

[rideglobally]

In my opinion - Keep the 12ht /h55f combo and spend some $$ to get 200hp and 600Nm, or go all out and source a 200 series VDJ ttd V8 with the 6speed auto and associated electronics and get 400hp and 1000nm (once modified) and start breaking drive shafts / hubs / diffs and axles!!! (Maybe joking at the vdj conversion - but serious about keeping the 12ht for $, reliability and just the fact that it sounds like an old diesel commercial fishing boat!!!

What performance modification would you do to accomplish this?

 

[Silveredition]

What performance modification would you do to accomplish this?

Alfin pistons
MLS head gasket
Modified injector pump (ADS or JHHilux)
+30 injectors
GTurbo Green wheel at about 22psi or Munro Racing Turbo - again about at 22psi
Large front mount cooler

 

[mudgudgeon]

It will do a higher Boost but the problem is the EGT also goes up also. That is the reason i only run it at 13psi. It will go to 20psi no problem.

Something is not right there.

Adding more boost, but leaving fuel setting the same should see lower EGTs, unless the turbo is working outside it's efficiency range

if you add more boost, AND more fuel, then yeah, EGTs will potentially rise

More air and same fuel leans out the air fuel ratio, which means cooler combustion temperature, and lower EGT

 

[mudgudgeon]

Dyno figures aren’t a real reflection on how it will drive and how it puts the power down.

Yep.
A couple of hundred RPM change in peak torque can make a huge difference in driveability

 

[rideglobally]

Alfin pistons
MLS head gasket
Modified injector pump (ADS or JHHilux)
+30 injectors
GTurbo Green wheel at about 22psi or Munro Racing Turbo - again about at 22psi
Large front mount cooler

That is the plan if i keep the 12ht, which is a strong possibility, it is the cheapest and the least complicated. This is base on what i have learned on this thread. But I have not given up on the 1HD-FTE. I am heading toward South Africa does anyone know of a place in South Africa that can do this king of modification or source for 1HD-FTE. It will be a while till i get there but just doing advance planing. Thx

 

[mudgudgeon]

does anyone know of a place in South Africa that can do this king of modification

Honestly, I think that will be your biggest challenge.

You might be better off having the engine pulled in ZA, and freight it to Perth for a rebuild?

Might seem like a slow and expensive option, but would be cheaper and faster than having an incompetent mechanic fúck it up.

Might be an ignorant view? but it comes from working with South Africans living in Australia.

I know in many ways they have all the modern attributes of western cities. In many ways they are still backward.
Also, a lot smaller portion of their population is going to be looking to do this sort of modification to an old cruiser. Repairing old workhorses to keep them running a bit longer will be more the norm.
With most tradies, anything outside the normal day to day throws them on a loop, or you get less than stellar outcomes.

Maybe @stinkyfj60 can comment on this aspect of what you are trying to do

 

[stinkyfj60]

If I were looking at a shop in ZA, I would contact Ralph at Toyo Service: Toyo Service Centre - https://toyo.co.za/ (their website sucks, which is the norm here). They might give you a lead if they don't do that kind of work.

WR might be a source too: https://wroffroad.co.za/

Honestly though, Australia leads the way in engine mods and such. Many of the shops here import parts and even ideas from there. South Africa has a lot of homegrown camping conversions, long range tanks, etc.

 

[Dougal]

It will do a higher Boost but the problem is the EGT also goes up also. That is the reason i only run it at 13psi. It will go to 20psi no problem.

Are you intercooled? Because without an intercooler it's hard to make any progress on EGT and air-flow past 15psi.
I know you're tight for front end clearance. But an intercooler is more important than your engine choice at this point.

 

[wedgetail]

I've never seen a gauge out by more than about 1psi. I put up a post up here at the time with the exact figures but I haven't been able to find it. My pressures were taken from the wastegate line.
Where is the ECU getting it's pressure signal from? Wastegate line or intake manifold?

I’ve seen cab mounted gauges out by 2psi, but never suspected good quality test gauges to be out. Yes the ecu gets its signal from the map sensor taken from the intake manifold between the shutter and egr. To go higher than 16 here the signal needs to be voltage clamped and then a chip needs to add more fuel while still reading the true pressure (FTE sensor is good to 30psi IIRC then it needs swapping out for a VDJ sensor as it’s good to 45 or so I think). The fact both the 79s and 100s read similar must mean the 100 is boosting higher at the turbo, but when comparing boost figures across the board I’ve always found the manifold reading is the standard

 

[rideglobally]

Honestly, I think that will be your biggest challenge.

You might be better off having the engine pulled in ZA, and freight it to Perth for a rebuild?

Might seem like a slow and expensive option, but would be cheaper and faster than having an incompetent mechanic fúck it up.

Might be an ignorant view? but it comes from working with South Africans living in Australia.

I know in many ways they have all the modern attributes of western cities. In many ways they are still backward.
Also, a lot smaller portion of their population is going to be looking to do this sort of modification to an old cruiser. Repairing old workhorses to keep them running a bit longer will be more the norm.
With most tradies, anything outside the normal day to day throws them on a loop, or you get less than stellar outcomes.

Maybe @stinkyfj60 can comment on this aspect of what you are trying to do

If that is the case, the other option is to get a 12ht or 1hd-fte that already been performance modified, import it to SA. Sell my 12ht in SA. Do you have a source for this. Maybe cheaper.