Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (4 Viewers)

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Does anyone know the part # and length of the Lokar Throttle cable that Mosley uses in their Sniper kits? On my way to work this morning my throttle cable broke at the pedal. I'm sure it's user error or the installers fault, either way I get to blame the same guy :doh: With some luck I was able to attach the unused choke cable with some zip ties and limp her into work. On a side note a hand throttle is kind of cool, I may try to make this mod permanent.

Thanks
 
Does anyone know the part # and length of the Lokar Throttle cable that Mosley uses in their Sniper kits? On my way to work this morning my throttle cable broke at the pedal. I'm sure it's user error or the installers fault, either way I get to blame the same guy :doh: With some luck I was able to attach the unused choke cable with some zip ties and limp her into work. On a side note a hand throttle is kind of cool, I may try to make this mod permanent.

Thanks
I believe it’s 36”.

If you get the longer one you can always cut it down to size. I think they go up to 50something inches.
 
Do we have a confirmed fix for the coasting to a stop stall issue? Mine just started doing it. About 2500 miles after swap.

I had a similar stalling on deceleration issue with my Sniper that I just installed on my 72 40 series...Holley tech support had a good suggestion that seems to have solved the issue at least on my truck...

Sniper Conversion - 72 FJ40 - F155 Engine - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sniper-conversion-72-fj40-f155-engine.1304213/post-14882967

The stock variable orifice PCV delivers big intermittent spikes of fresh air into the intake manifold which throws the AFRs into a loop.
A fixed orifice PCV (Duralast PCV1009DL - in stock at autozone) delivers a more consistent flow of air from the crankcase.

The variable orifice PCV works fine with a carburetor because there are no sensors and no computer generated "feedback" loops between various sensors.

Also, as others suggested, adjust your valves.
 
I had a similar stalling on deceleration issue with my Sniper that I just installed on my 72 40 series...Holley tech support had a good suggestion that seems to have solved the issue at least on my truck...

Sniper Conversion - 72 FJ40 - F155 Engine - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sniper-conversion-72-fj40-f155-engine.1304213/post-14882967

The stock variable orifice PCV delivers big intermittent spikes of fresh air into the intake manifold which throws the AFRs into a loop.
A fixed orifice PCV (Duralast PCV1009DL - in stock at autozone) delivers a more consistent flow of air from the crankcase.

The variable orifice PCV works fine with a carburetor because there are no sensors and no computer generated "feedback" loops between various sensors.

Also, as others suggested, adjust your valves.
Interesting. I suspected the PVC could have an affect on this since the issue during an extended time when the throttle is closed in gear. Doing the "shake" test my PVC seemed good but I bought a new one anyway, and then I tried clamping it off completely, but neither had an iota of affect, so I wrote that off.

Since this is a cheap one banana check, I would try this first.

I'm curious if anyone else has success with this. It seems like if this was the common cause, almost everyone should have this problem, and they don't.
 
It seems like if this was the common cause, almost everyone should have this problem, and they don't.
I think there are way too many variables with installing Snipers on F/2F engines to make any general conclusions.

How many folks install snipers on engines with poor compression, vac leaks, old plugs, timing is off, valves out of adjustment?
 
I think there are way too many variables with installing Snipers on F/2F engines to make any general conclusions.

How many folks install snipers on engines with poor compression, vac leaks, old plugs, timing is off, valves out of adjustment?
i suppose thats my point. unlike wear, the PVC is a constant, not variable. Thats why i isolated it myself. if a healthy engine with a stock pvc unit malfunctions, and all healthy engines have one, then all healthy engines should have this error. that does not appear to be the case, thats why i'm really curious if anyone else with this issue has it vanish if they change the PVC unit. if that's the case, we are really boring down into a large cause of the issues, and i'll need to go back thru my experiments, as maybe elimiating the PVC isnt the same as a constant pvc, and i made a mistake.
 
@zipper Give it a shot!

Plugging the PVC is definitely not the same as a fixed orifice PVC. The OEM poppet style PCV delivers variable flow (open/closed) where the fixed PCV delivers a more consistent flow across different manifold vacuums. Many folks dance around this issue by altering the IAC settings (higher IAC hold and/or longer decay rate) but the PCV solution is preferable (at least for me).
 
@zipper Give it a shot!

Plugging the PVC is definitely not the same as a fixed orifice PVC. The OEM poppet style PCV delivers variable flow (open/closed) where the fixed PCV delivers a more consistent flow across different manifold vacuums. Many folks dance around this issue by altering the IAC settings (higher IAC hold and/or longer decay rate) but the PCV solution is preferable (at least for me).
No, it’s not the same as far as the function of the engine and the purpose of the pvc goes, but, I don’t know how sniper can distinguish between the two.
 
With all of this talk of the PCV I thought I’d check mine. All good there but the hose isn’t routed to the bottom of the Sniper it’s routed to this thing on the intake manifold. The port on the base of the Sniper is attached to a hose that disappears on the firewall (I just hooked up the hoses how the were on the previous Webber carb). I’ve been trying to reverse engineer the desmog process without much luck, it’s hard to know what was done when I don’t know what’s original. Is it ok to have the hoses hooked up like this? The only issue I have is when it’s cold. The Sniper does not go into high idle. If the engine temperature is below 60 I have to keep my foot on the gas to get it to idle otherwise it idles at 350-400 rpm then dies. Thanks
3887DDF0-7AB5-4CCA-983C-4F44590CB777.jpeg
384BDD97-E47E-4513-A76B-BBB821CDD364.jpeg
 
IAC is factory set at 20% I believe, and offhand, I can't think of reason to change that, but I can't see why it would do anything harmful. Actual Idle should be about 5-10% and I think that just smooths out the rampdown.

EDIT: I did mess with it by raising it, in hopes it would delay whatever issue was happening to cause a stall when decelerating in gear to a stop. It didnt do much.

I did come to the conclusion that particular issue is mostly prevalent on standard transmissions. I think an auto with the tq conv just goes right to idle and the IAC never reads 0% for the prolonged period that happens with a stick.
 
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With all of this talk of the PCV I thought I’d check mine. All good there but the hose isn’t routed to the bottom of the Sniper it’s routed to this thing on the intake manifold. The port on the base of the Sniper is attached to a hose that disappears on the firewall (I just hooked up the hoses how the were on the previous Webber carb). I’ve been trying to reverse engineer the desmog process without much luck, it’s hard to know what was done when I don’t know what’s original. Is it ok to have the hoses hooked up like this? The only issue I have is when it’s cold. The Sniper does not go into high idle. If the engine temperature is below 60 I have to keep my foot on the gas to get it to idle otherwise it idles at 350-400 rpm then dies. Thanks
Show us where the hose connected to the base of the Sniper goes please. That second pic doesn’t really help. The hose between the PCV valve and “[that] thing on the intake manifold” is correct. Factory EGR/PCV location on the intake. The EGR has been closed off just like I did with mine. Looks like yours is welded shut with a bolt in it.
 
i suppose thats my point. unlike wear, the PVC is a constant, not variable. Thats why i isolated it myself. if a healthy engine with a stock pvc unit malfunctions, and all healthy engines have one, then all healthy engines should have this error. that does not appear to be the case, thats why i'm really curious if anyone else with this issue has it vanish if they change the PVC unit. if that's the case, we are really boring down into a large cause of the issues, and i'll need to go back thru my experiments, as maybe elimiating the PVC isnt the same as a constant pvc, and i made a mistake.
It seems to have fixed my weird lean spike issues i was having at idle intermittently. I simply capped the port in the sniper and drove it and I didn’t have a single issue with it lean spiking or dying at idle. The engine was already warm so I can’t yet speak for cold operation which is when I had the most issues. But I can say it’s super annoying.

So to clarify; PCV currently venting to atmosphere with a vacuum cap over the sniper port has seemed to cure my intermittent lean spike issues. I’ll get some more drive time in the next few days and update accordingly though.

Edit; I will also say that it seems to be able to hold the target AFR better as well now.
 
Not sure if it’s of interest to you, but you can change the tach scale. I have mine set to show 0-6000 rpm with a 4000 rpm redline (F race engine….).
Personally, I like his optimism.
 
Hey yall,

I have an 83 FJ60 with the sniper set up. A couple times I have been driving and the car just shuts off and won't turn back on. It will turn over pretty quickly but not start. Figured out that it was the ignition module in the dui distributor. Both times this has happened I have replaced the ignition module and it starts right up. This time it started up and then eventually died. Now, when I go to start it, I wait for the system to pressurize and it starts up great but then eventually dies again. Not sure if this is a problem with my sniper settings or maybe an o2 sensor or what?
 
Hey yall,

I have an 83 FJ60 with the sniper set up. A couple times I have been driving and the car just shuts off and won't turn back on. It will turn over pretty quickly but not start. Figured out that it was the ignition module in the dui distributor. Both times this has happened I have replaced the ignition module and it starts right up. This time it started up and then eventually died. Now, when I go to start it, I wait for the system to pressurize and it starts up great but then eventually dies again. Not sure if this is a problem with my sniper settings or maybe an o2 sensor or what?


Next time you are dealing with it look at the readout. Maybe take a photo.

AFR in the red often points to bad O2. Also black smoke out of tailpipe.

Duty Cycle high is usually a bad fuel filter
 
Next time you are dealing with it look at the readout. Maybe take a photo.

AFR in the red often points to bad O2. Also black smoke out of tailpipe.

Duty Cycle high is usually a bad fuel filter
Like take a photo of the readout right before it dies?
 
Next time you are dealing with it look at the readout. Maybe take a photo.

AFR in the red often points to bad O2. Also black smoke out of tailpipe.

Duty Cycle high is usually a bad fuel filter
So these are the readings right before it dies, but now when I turn the key and wait for it to pressurize, it won't start.

IMG_0744.jpg
 

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