DIY 4.3 Re-Gear (1 Viewer)

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Can anyone confirm that 41201-80483 is a 4.3 ring and pinion that will fit a 2007 200 series front diff.
I believe so. Came in a 2011 5.7L 4.3 ratio tundra.
 
Can anyone confirm that 41201-80483 is a 4.3 ring and pinion that will fit a 2007 200 series front diff.

Yes
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While it's fresh in my mind, some tips and shortcuts to removing the front diff carrier

1) Remove driveshaft - FSM calls complete removal. I only removed the end connected to the front diff. Once the front carrier is separated from its mounts, there's enough play to get the driveshaft off the studs
2) Remove CVs - FSM call for significant disassembly of the suspension. None of that is necessary as there's no need to pull the CV off the hub side. I just pulled the 2 big bolts holding the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle to have enough room to separate the inner CV.
3) Separate inner CV - this takes some good force. With the pry I had, I couldn't get the right leverage against the carrier lip, and without confidence I wouldn't damage it. Used a large bearing separator plate in the gap around the axle and against the carrier, as a flat solid protected surface to pry against. Made quick work once I had that.
What large bearing separator plate did you use?
 
What large bearing separator plate did you use?

I have an old one that looks like this. I imagine any one could work. Put it behind the CV to have a flat surface to pry against.

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I seem to remember @Taco2Cruiser posting in the past that if the retaining clip is in the right orientation it is much easier to pop the inner CV out. He also said he goes by feel…

My plan was to keep trying it in 30 degree increments to hopefully stumble upon the sweet spot.
 
Everytime without fail, I pull on the inner CV with one hand and a couple of taps with a 1lb dead blow hammer they pop right out
 
I seem to remember @Taco2Cruiser posting in the past that if the retaining clip is in the right orientation it is much easier to pop the inner CV out. He also said he goes by feel…

My plan was to keep trying it in 30 degree increments to hopefully stumble upon the sweet spot.
That’s right.

There’s a simple c-clip on the end of the splines. The opening of the c-clip need to be facing down. How I “feel” for it is that you to what @bloc said. Pull the cv out until it stops, and then turn 30° or so and pull again. If you are watching very carefully, you’ll eventually find that the shaft comes out ever so slightly more. That means the open ending of the c-clip is facing down, and the c-clip has receded more into its channel.

At that point, I can use a brass punch and very little effort, and the CV axle just pops right out. Sometimes I can get it with just pulling with my hands.

If the CV is fighting, be patient. Take a pause, and try what I said. Just don’t think you will beat a c clip in the wrong spot. And please don’t use an air hammer. That was my least favorite mobile job, helping a guy with the damage that was created after an air hammer had its way with the cups.
 
I've read this whole thing and only feel dumber now

For 4.3 easiest DIY install, I need a tundra 4.3 front and a 100 series rear? Any 100 rear? And they bolt in, but may be a good idea to rebuild them? Lockers DO exist on some 100 series rears?

For 4.88 only option is to buy nitros? Anyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
 
I've read this whole thing and only feel dumber now

For 4.3 easiest DIY install, I need a tundra 4.3 front and a 100 series rear? Any 100 rear? And they bolt in, but may be a good idea to rebuild them? Lockers DO exist on some 100 series rears?

For 4.88 only option is to buy nitros? Anyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
Super confusing subject. I struggled with it.

Yes, some early 100 series in the US came with rear lockers.

I put 3.90 on my 2016 8 speed, no idea about 4.2 vs 4.88 on the 6 speed. People have posted calculators on here that might help. I seem to recall a top speed and rev issue with 4.88, but some people swear by them. Probably a lot about how you use the vehicle.

If you need them, I have the front and rear dropouts from my '16, but it is one of those things I can't get great answers on what they might be usable for. I'd sell them for exactly what I bought the used replacements for - $500 plus shipping (or $250 plus shipping for one). They are big hunks of metal and shipping will add up.
 
Anyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
Round numbers for the ballpark
Rear eLocker - $1250
Front gears and bearings - $850
Rear gears and bearings - $850
12 hours shop time - $1500 (YMMV)
Optional while you're in theres
New Rear Bearings + install - $500
New CVs - $1000

If you need housings have to add that in separately.
 
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Round numbers for the ballpark
Rear eLocker - $1250
Front Locker and bearings - $850
Rear Locker and bearings - $850
12 hours shop time - $1500 (YMMV)
Optional while you're in theres
New Rear Bearings + install - $500
New CVs - $1000

If you need housings have to add that in separately.
Front and rear 4.88s plus lockers set me back about $5500. If I'd skipped the lockers it was probably a $2500-3000 job.
 
I've read this whole thing and only feel dumber now

For 4.3 easiest DIY install, I need a tundra 4.3 front and a 100 series rear? Any 100 rear? And they bolt in, but may be a good idea to rebuild them? Lockers DO exist on some 100 series rears?

For 4.88 only option is to buy nitros? Anyone give a ballpark on having a shop do the 4.88?
Different 100 years had different gear ratio’s. Later ones had 4.10’s.

Generally people purchase Harrop e lockers or arb lockers and install them into the diffs, rather than sourcing a 1998-1999 rear diff that has a locker.

Arb lockers are usually 1000-1200 each…but you have to buy a compressor to run them for like $200.
E lockers are usually like $1350 each.
 
Different 100 years had different gear ratio’s. Later ones had 4.10’s.

Generally people purchase Harrop e lockers or arb lockers and install them into the diffs, rather than sourcing a 1998-1999 rear diff that has a locker.

Arb lockers are usually 1000-1200 each…but you have to buy a compressor to run them for like $200.
E lockers are usually like $1350 each.

ARB's are $1049 and the medium Compressor is $165 thru the end of the month @ Cruiser Outfitters. We stock all the gears, install kits, Eaton E-Lockers, etc. We'd love to help! Info@cruiseroutfitters.com
 
Note that the 100-series rear locking diff actuator will not fit a 200. They require a special axle shaft on the passenger side with longer solines where they go into the diff. Also the sway bar on KDSS Landcruiser a will interfere with the locker actuator. LX bar may clear, but would still have the spline issue.

I suspect the people with rpm issues running 4.88s are in 2016+ cruisers with the 8spd and their shorter gearing.
 
Can you tell me how much your trailer weighs?

~8k lbs. When laden for a trip, combined weight is 15,620 lbs.

Just got back from another great trip today

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