LX470 2004 | Need help with Android Screen (4 Viewers)

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You just unplugged it and plugged it back in?
Yup, But my noise filter is still installed as well as my RCA cables, (check my previous picture for location) and I tapped the ground wire of the noise filter into the ground wire on the Teyes harness.
This may have helped, but I honestly don't know why the noise went away and I'm really expecting the noise to come back. My friend and I were just trouble shooting and it somehow went away as we were trying to find the source by plugging and unplugging things. So I'll just enjoy it now and not touch it unless it comes back.
 
Grounding the speakers is safe. The hypothesis around grounding the speakers is that the harness that comes with the teyes only provides speaker signal on the positive side of the speaker wires. This didn't impact the LX because the LX amp has a shared ground where all the speakers connect. The LC does NOT have a shared speaker ground so the belief was that wiring up all the speaker negatives would fix any ground hum/hiss. Apparently there's more to it than that, though.
Just to run by this one again - you were at one point suggesting to ground the empty pins on the G connector to the #20 pin on the R36 vehicle harness connector?
R36b.JPG
 
Just to run by this one again - you were at one point suggesting to ground the empty pins on the G connector to the #20 pin on the R36 vehicle harness connector? View attachment 3272252

I would try pin 16 first, then 20.

I would also check continuity between pin 20 on R36 and pin 10 on the amplifier to make sure those are connected (as they shield the other wires)
 
Does R37 plug into something on the LX? On the LCs, or at least mine, the corresponding connector for R37 goes to a Gateway ECM module right behind the MFD. There's only four wires on the R37 harness that I have, two of which connect to unused slots on the Gateway harness.

Sorry if this has already been discussed. 28 pages of posts and I forget everything we've tried.
 
Does R37 plug into something on the LX? On the LCs, or at least mine, the corresponding connector for R37 goes to a Gateway ECM module right behind the MFD. There's only four wires on the R37 harness that I have, two of which connect to unused slots on the Gateway harness.

Sorry if this has already been discussed. 28 pages of posts and I forget everything we've tried.
Not near my truck, but from memory, I think R37 is the square connector with four green wires? That one normally carries the CD player sound and is not used when you install the Teyes. Mine is not connected to anything.
 
Not near my truck, but from memory, I think R37 is the square connector with four green wires? That one normally carries the CD player sound and is not used when you install the Teyes. Mine is not connected to anything.
Yep, that's the connector. Okay, so neither the LX nor the LC uses that plug.
 
Been following this thread and I'm so sorry many of you have the hum/engine noise. This is also known in the stereo world as alternator whine through speakers. Surprisingly its quite common with non-stock / upgrade sound systems, particularly in Toyotas. If the noise goes up and down (almost like a turbo spooling) with the gas then it is alternator whine. This is almost always due to a grounding issue in the electrical system (alternator/headunit/amplifier).

I recently noticed I had alternator whine as well but fixed it - turns out to be a loose ground from amplifier (Rockford Fosgate PD1000 5.channel) to the chasis. Even though the bolt was solid, the wires jiggle slightly in the sheath rubber housing due to a loose end crimp and that was enough to cause the alternator whine I was getting. The fix for me was just to crimp harder until there is no play in copper wires and then end connector to chasis.


My system: TEYES CC3, 3-way infinities for speakers, Fosgate PD1000.5 amp, RCAs to the headunit.

A couple of ideas you might try:
1) something important is to check your power (red) wires coming in, the ground wires should be the same size, e.g. if the power wire is 4 gauge, need 4 gauge ground
2) do the big 3, 4 , or 5 upgrade (try direct ground from alternator to chasis or battery negative terminal, direct power from alternator to battery, upgrade the battery to ground chasis cable to a larger gauge, upgrade the ground wires from the hook-like thing on both sides of the engine block to chasis)
3) make sure you are getting good ground -- i.e. sand off the paint to expose bare metal for ground wire connection.
4) use the old trick of looping a speaker ground wire from the G connector and ground to anything metal , you can do this with RCAs as well by looping the speaker wires around the RCA connection and grounding them Video for example
5) there is a setting on the TEYES unit to turn off the Amp, try turning off the amp and rev engine to see if the noise is present --- this can help you isolate what's causing it. If the Amp is off and you still get noise then it is the headunit or upstream (like alternator to battery). If no noise then the source of the problem is amplifier grounding or speakers downstream from the headunit

hope this helps

here's a good source for this: How To Diagnose and Eliminate High Pitch Engine Noise - Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog - https://learn.sonicelectronix.com/how-to-eliminate-high-pitch-engine-noise/
 
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Also one other thing I forgot to mention is that "ground loop isolators" or noise filters aren't really a true fix of the source issue. They put a band-aid on the problem. As long as there are grounding issues, your headunit and speakers are not working optimally and not producing the best sounds.
 
@Congo if the whine/buzz/hiss is there even when the engine is off, (key turned to "on" to power the stereo) is it still an alternator whine and how much of your post above would still apply? And, for the record, when I was trying to get it to work, I turned the amp off on the TEYES unit and there was no change.

I think it's actually more complicated. To be honest, I think my issue had nothing to do with the ground. I think it had to do with controlling the volume from the radio/tape deck. I don't think the canbus talks to the radio volume control properly and the volume directly from the radio (not the TEYES volume) is on full blast. So you get a distortion hiss.

I don't know. Just my observations.
 
And I just want to point out again that the LCs from ~04-07 have the hiss issue, but the LX's do not have the issue.

What would be great is to know why the LX is different than the LC in those years. I think @cryptyk lended some ideas to get to the bottom of it. I'm with @JJ_SC , it's not as simple as just ground your alternator better.

I can't do much, I'm just on the sidelines hoping someone figures this out!
 
@JJ_SC
@Congo if the whine/buzz/hiss is there even when the engine is off, (key turned to "on" to power the stereo) is it still an alternator whine and how much of your post above would still apply? And, for the record, when I was trying to get it to work, I turned the amp off on the TEYES unit and there was no change.

I think it's actually more complicated. To be honest, I think my issue had nothing to do with the ground. I think it had to do with controlling the volume from the radio/tape deck. I don't think the canbus talks to the radio volume control properly and the volume directly from the radio (not the TEYES volume) is on full blast. So you get a distortion hiss.

I don't know. Just my observations.
hmm, with your theory perhaps you can switch to a known good radio channel to test if the hiss turns to music. I think in the TEYES if you hit any of the tape deck radio button, the radio app that seems to control factory radio will come up to let you switch channels

Is your antennae connected to the TEYES?

Even on the LX, when I connected the factory radio antennae it will give some distortion and so I have since disconnected it and not use radio on the TEYES

also any luck with grounding #20 pin and 16 on the R36 vehicle harness connector?

radioapp.jpg
 
@JJ_SC

hmm, with your theory perhaps you can switch to a known good radio channel to test if the hiss turns to music. I think in the TEYES if you hit any of the tape deck radio button, the radio app that seems to control factory radio will come up to let you switch channels

Is your antennae connected to the TEYES?

Even on the LX, when I connected the factory radio antennae it will give some distortion and so I have since disconnected it and not use radio on the TEYES

also any luck with grounding #20 pin and 16 on the R36 vehicle harness connector?

View attachment 3279738
I tried it with both the antenna connected and not connected. The Teyes radio controls didn't change the hiss. If the radio was searching for a channel, the hiss would go silent. Once it found a channel, regardless of the reception, the hiss would be back. So, for example, if I tuned in NPR, which I know is a good strong signal, the hiss would be there as soon as it picked up. However, the hiss was gone as it was searching for the channel. Hope that makes sense.

Edit to say, it's super cool that everyone is on this thread trying to figure it out. It would be SO nice if we had an upgrade option that worked!
 
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Been following for a while and appreciate being able to stand on the shoulders of giants before I start throwing my own money and time into this, but I have to ask... Plug-n-play would be awesome, don't get me wrong, but perhaps instead of trying to polish this turd, the turd being the factory amp of course, has anyone considered removing ALL leads to the factory amp, running audio out of the optical to a new amp's optical-in and controlling the volume from the display? I'd gladly give up the factory volume knob and steering wheel controls for signal clarity and power. Or even BT 5.1 out from the Teyes to a BT capable amp. A hybrid approach makes more sense...if possible...to me...from the outside looking in.
 
Been following for a while and appreciate being able to stand on the shoulders of giants before I start throwing my own money and time into this, but I have to ask... Plug-n-play would be awesome, don't get me wrong, but perhaps instead of trying to polish this turd, the turd being the factory amp of course, has anyone considered removing ALL leads to the factory amp, running audio out of the optical to a new amp's optical-in and controlling the volume from the display? I'd gladly give up the factory volume knob and steering wheel controls for signal clarity and power. Or even BT 5.1 out from the Teyes to a BT capable amp. A hybrid approach makes more sense...if possible...to me...from the outside looking in.
I'm doing exactly that, but on an LX470 so don't have the hiss problem.
My installer just got covid so it got pushed out to April :/
 
I would try pin 16 first, then 20.

I would also check continuity between pin 20 on R36 and pin 10 on the amplifier to make sure those are connected (as they shield the other wires)
Finally got a few free minutes. Tried grounding pin 16 on the vehicle harness to the 4 empty spots on the Teyes connector. Same thing as grounding pin 20 - static and no more audio.

By the way, folks with '03 Land Cruisers - have you found a home for this guy? I can't seem to figure out what this one connects to. Everything works though.. No other vehicle harness connector seems to match up to this one.
52766772766_7891c7afa7_h.jpg
 
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Following as I have a slightly different issue ... 2005 UK spec LC100VX 1HD-FTE, Teyes CC3 installed. All speakers work, no hum, hiss or other noise issues thank goodness. Aircon works, steering wheel controls work, DAB works, Spotify, Google maps etc all good. Very happy but for one niggle - when locking the Cruiser using the key fob the alarm sounds pretty much as soon as it's armed. Every single time. Locking via the door lock is fine.
I have pulled the cables for the rear camera but not connected them to a camera (they are connected to the head unit) and am wondering if that's the culprit?? Any thoughts most welcome!
 
Finally got a few free minutes. Tried grounding pin 16 on the vehicle harness to the 4 empty spots on the Teyes connector. Same thing as grounding pin 20 - static and no more audio.

By the way, folks with '03 Land Cruisers - have you found a home for this guy? I can't seem to figure out what this one connects to. Everything works though.. No other vehicle harness connector seems to match up to this one.
52766772766_7891c7afa7_h.jpg
Does that not connect to the canbus box? Memory says it does....
 
not sure on LC, but on LX The TEYES harness plug with only 4 green wires is plugged into one of the factory nav plugs, these are the three plugs at the top most when looking from the back
 

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