NC LX becomes NC LC (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Tailgate repair is done. It was in pretty good shape considering how the roof was. Had one small section to address. Used a section from a donor tailgate with the same edge.
A6D6EBC9-2F2A-489F-A5AC-212E6B1E0D83.jpeg
91E33DC2-CEA8-4C38-B4F7-5C678BE5F333.jpeg



The front of the tailgate had minimal damage. I thought I’d get away with out filler, but there is a small dent from bumping into something, I couldn’t get behind.
7740E322-5403-48C5-8028-9ACC982CECB5.jpeg


Tailgate came out nice. Went ahead and painted the jams and inner fender while I had some paint mixed up.
BD6FC7EF-54E5-44AF-992C-5BA49C13D52E.jpeg
 
A little progress worthy of an update that may help someone else. Working on the FR door, or doors. Combining the door from the 83 and 86.

Removed the outer skin of the 83. The skin was junk but the inner was in good shape. Lots of good info on YouTube on how to transplant/remove a door skin. Very helpful info for these old trucks since reproduction doors aren’t available.
F4097404-1036-47B5-9E99-267CCE4EB449.jpeg


86 door skin was dent free and the inner was rotten around the hinges and other compound curves. It wasn’t worth the time to repair when I can repair minimal damage on both good halves. Also, With the door opened up it will be easy to make those small repairs correctly.

A3C214ED-7665-4459-9149-57D619FC4B38.jpeg


D15C7DB4-FC38-43DB-ABEB-081388497C53.jpeg


Just to insure I get it all the rust , I set up an electrolysis tank out of an old tank in the barn. Perfect size for the door to sit in. Didn’t take long for it to start working. Once again lots of good info on YouTube on how to set up this process.

8BCC6B67-1A57-4955-AB95-813EC613FE4A.jpeg
 
Finished the right rear door. After 24 hours in the electrolysis tank the rot was exposed and neutralized. I decided to cut along the where the door gasket sits and fold back the edge on the lower half. This removed all the rot in one piece and gave me a access to prep the metal. Same piece was removed from the 83 Door with bad skin.

Not sure of the reason, either a dead phone or just in the "zone" late at night I forgot to take pictures of the process. Instead of just primer, spot welds and seam sealer I used panel bond on the lower section and leaving enough material on the donor piece, did a over lap joint where the gasket clips in. My gut says with the advancement of products available, this is much stronger and will allow zero moisture to enter on the bottom edge.

Side note for anyone following: All the old seam sealer was removed and reapplied. Doing this I quickly found out what looked like a clean panel had surface rust under the seam sealer where it had hardened and allowed moisture underneath. If your going through the trouble to paint, spend the extra time to remove the old seam sealer and check things out.

83FF6D35-015C-4314-8D0B-092F1D45C486.jpeg


9EDC067C-8DCB-434F-9DE3-5125924CEFD1.jpeg


FEEAD41B-D776-413D-83B3-782FC9792F78.jpeg
 
More of the Same ol same ol. Drivers door repair. Cut out a section of a rusted out rear door with the same contour.

FD81249B-6274-486A-8A69-FD58A4CA87CC.jpeg
BCAFBED2-F2C7-4928-AEBA-C21F0662B22F.jpeg
CCFC9B5A-3A3E-4512-9F88-360C6201CCAD.jpeg



And next time you think, “it’s rust free”. Fold back the edge. I ended up folding back the entire edge and separating the panels to prep properly. It’s much more manageable at this point. ;)

5BA840AF-51FF-45FC-82CB-1AD6F47F9215.jpeg
 
I hate the Power Wagons tires. Planting fruit trees along the fence line and Found a soft spot. The tires do nothing but cake up and refuse to self clean; the truck is too heavy and the contact is too narrow. I never had these issue on my 15” PW, I’ll be glad when they wear out. Anyways, another debate for another forum.

So for the 60 porn… Pulled Jack out for a little sunshine and recovery. Engaged the lockers for the first time since august and they worked flawlessly. Winch did what it does. Felt good to drive it even just through the field.

After I pulled the Wagon out I then drove through the same spot twice yelling “Land Cruiser” and what can be described by my wife as probably my Impression of a sorority “whooo” girl screaming headed for the bar after her friends show up.

Other priorities have gotten in the way, but this definitely sparked a little motivation needed to stay up a little later tonight and get a little more done.

DD9C1874-8827-4896-9C67-A0E36CEFA4FE.jpeg


964B32E9-1104-4BC4-8F16-02E095AEDBD5.jpeg
 
Started sorting through the parts to reinstall. I reinstalled the shiny new door latches from my chromate stash. Gaps are set and doors align. Can’t describe how good it feels to shut the door and it latch and align correctly. The feeling is up there with other notable moments along this journey.

Flew out yesterday for the week, but before leaving, I found the time to finish painting around other commitments. Paint will be nice and cured for a cut and buff upon my return.
862F93B2-508B-4FD1-8D0E-10AFE006A810.jpeg



Few more thoughts…
  • Since modifying the fenders around the rockers. I need to figure out secure the bottom. I’m thinking earth magnet will do the trick.
  • I’ve gotta pull the windshield to install the headliner. In need to get a gasket that doesn’t have the impression for chrome trim.
  • Alternator only wants to put out around 12v. I need to replace it or see about changing the regulator. Maybe possibly have it rework to get a little more out of it. 🤔
Registration for Relic Run is complete. Until next time……
 
Last edited:
If your gasket is in good shape, just get the square body chevy welting for the lock strip. It's a chunk of black rubber, no chrome.
 
If your gasket is in good shape, just get the square body chevy welting for the lock strip. It's a chunk of black rubber, no chrome.

@NC LX I just bought some of the rubber lock strip for my 60 and new minitruck. I took out the chome strip when we pulled the windshield to do the roof rust repair and will be using the rubber strip in a new gasket when I install the new windshield. I used Precision Part # WLS 466 R-100. Bought it from Summit.

Same thing Johnny uses on Moonshine.

 
Austin,

When I replaced the rusty rockers on my 55, I did my rockers out of 2x4 tube and lopped off the bottom of the fenders similarly to what you did. Here's how I attached the fenders to the rockers. Of course, I welded the tabs on before I painted the fenders. If you take the same approach, you will likely have to repaint the fenders. Welding the tabs will cook the paint. Anyway, this is a shot from inside the DS fender looking back toward the firewall and floorboard:
IMG_2106[1].JPG


And the finished product:
IMG_5707[1].JPG
 
If your gasket is in good shape, just get the square body chevy welting for the lock strip. It's a chunk of black rubber, no chrome.
New gasket has been in since August, I need to figure out how to pull the glass with out cracking it.


Austin,

When I replaced the rusty rockers on my 55, I did my rockers out of 2x4 tube and lopped off the bottom of the fenders similarly to what you did. Here's how I attached the fenders to the rockers. Of course, I welded the tabs on before I painted the fenders. If you take the same approach, you will likely have to repaint the fenders. Welding the tabs will cook the paint. Anyway, this is a shot from inside the DS fender looking back toward the firewall and floorboard:
View attachment 3271272

And the finished product:
View attachment 3271277

That looks good. Simple and functional. 2x4” is exactly what I did. When I cut the bottom of my fender, I capped it with some 16ga. I was thinking of using two simple L brackets over lapped, bolt through it, and attached with the 3m panel bond to avoid the heat.

Capping the bottom of the fender gave the fender rigidity. Driver side sits perfect, passenger side wants stick out about .5” at the bottom and I can’t unsee it.
 
I have a set of 60 flares that I’m gonna be installing. Nice product but directions are lacking. The front is simple to see how it installs but the back can leave you scratching your head. After a few swapped messages with others that run them I figured out placement. Leaving this here for anyone else that needs the visual. Used two screws to find correct placement. When I found the correct position, I applied Sika221 to the back side and snugged the screws down.
B47B4755-0994-48C7-915D-DB757D7A4A44.jpeg


Productive day on the drivers side. Started with the driver side wet sand using 1200, 1500, 2000, 3M cutting compound, polish and finally a wax. Results came came out fantastic.
22950027-7389-41AB-A70E-5862B1E59BBC.jpeg



Found some parts Digging thought my bins, Installed new door gaskets, Crome trim around the windows, a driver side rear window, bolted on the lift gate and then wrapped up the day with some decals.
0D929310-F659-455A-B9DB-954AAF0985B2.jpeg
 
Hot damn. That stripe really sets it all off nicely.
 
Icing on the cake has arrived. @campteq
DE6F93F6-3DE1-4E2E-BD1A-A4ACBEA6AEE6.jpeg
4DFD50A5-CB17-46AD-9D23-512FFC4AE523.jpeg


Among other things that nobody cares about bc they’ve seen the pictures above.…
  • Flares are painted, polished and installed.
  • New window runs, clean glass and all the doors Internals are in place and functional. All OEM hardware with shiny chromate was used. Every thing was cleaned and coated with appropriate lubricants to preserve where it would benefit for longevity.
  • Tailgate Internals are in place and a tailgate storage lid is in place.
Exterior Window felt should be here today to wrap the doors up.

49D49441-78CA-4701-8565-369E91A76918.jpeg
 
The truck looks great!

I'm really interested to see how the Campteq turns out.
Thanks. First impressions are it’s a work of art. This whole process started because I needed a roof, 2years later, I’m about to cut off a perfectly good roof.
 
Last edited:
If you called me in the last two hours, chances are I ignored your call. Took about 10 minutes, and the electric shears made quick work of the top.

I put the forks on the tractor and sat the top in place. Technically haven’t “installed” it yet, but the fit and finish is spot on. Have some help coming over later to help with the adhesion process, also gonna take the hood off and get it painted this weekend.
F2CB61AF-95A0-477C-93BF-99701E96D13F.jpeg
ED7898BC-39F4-4D6B-9F0C-0A261E6D5E42.jpeg
FA103701-A5CB-4246-8D5D-1CE5F856931F.jpeg

CD414170-253F-4C3C-8765-4170B4FC4E0B.jpeg


Still fits in the garage. :clap:
513D8E3C-C237-489A-9BEC-4EFB0D1F5CD4.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom