LX 570/ AHC Wheel and Tire Info and Pics (2 Viewers)

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I’ve been trying to resist asking the question but I’m at a point where it’s either just do it or ask the pros here on mud.

Here’s what I’d like to run on my 2016 570:
Rock warriors
285/75/17 yoko go15 (33.9 x 11.3)
I have bora 1” spacers as well if needed.

From what I’ve read here, spacers are not necessary but shouldn’t harm anything if the stance is preferred. Also, I’m expecting to do some minor massaging of the mud flaps and liners.

Any other issues I’m missing?

Rock warriors have a slightly higher offset but I doubt you’d clear the UCA without the spacers on an 11”+ wide tire.
 
I’ve been trying to resist asking the question but I’m at a point where it’s either just do it or ask the pros here on mud.

Here’s what I’d like to run on my 2016 570:
Rock warriors
285/75/17 yoko go15 (33.9 x 11.3)
I have bora 1” spacers as well if needed.

From what I’ve read here, spacers are not necessary but shouldn’t harm anything if the stance is preferred. Also, I’m expecting to do some minor massaging of the mud flaps and liners.

Any other issues I’m missing?
You are going to have to move whole front fender liner forward. You do this from the bottom. You will gain an inch or more. The info is in the fitting 35s thread.
 
I’ve been trying to resist asking the question but I’m at a point where it’s either just do it or ask the pros here on mud.

Here’s what I’d like to run on my 2016 570:
Rock warriors
285/75/17 yoko go15 (33.9 x 11.3)
I have bora 1” spacers as well if needed.

From what I’ve read here, spacers are not necessary but shouldn’t harm anything if the stance is preferred. Also, I’m expecting to do some minor massaging of the mud flaps and liners.

Any other issues I’m missing?
I feel like running spacers with Rock warriors is pointless. the biggest advantage of running rock warriors is to have an optimal offset, spacers defeat this purpose. If you want less, and were to offset for aesthetics, get a rim with less offset.
 
I feel like running spacers with Rock warriors is pointless. the biggest advantage of running rock warriors is to have an optimal offset, spacers defeat this purpose. If you want less, and were to offset for aesthetics, get a rim with less offset.
Thanks for all the comments. @coleAK : you mention that rock warriors have optimal offset, but for what tire size? 285/70r17 seems to be the standard. I’m looking for more tire height with this set up.
 
I feel like running spacers with Rock warriors is pointless. the biggest advantage of running rock warriors is to have an optimal offset, spacers defeat this purpose. If you want less, and were to offset for aesthetics, get a rim with less offset.

Pretty much agree, just get the wheel in the offset you want. Why chase a discontinued (and ugly) wheel?

If anything i would do the HE BBS wheels instead.
 
Thanks for all the comments. @coleAK : you mention that rock warriors have optimal offset, but for what tire size? 285/70r17 seems to be the standard. I’m looking for more tire height with this set up.
The 286/70R17 is the OEM fitment for the RWs on a 200 series.

I run the Toyo AT3 in that LT285/75R17 on no spacer and it fits fine. Definitely have to move some plastic, and I definitely scrape plastic if I slam on the brakes while I’m in a full lock turn (basically every time I pull into my driveway) but other than that I have no rubbing.

I agree with others here though, if I decide to go to a 35 at some point, I’d find a wheel with a 25-40mm offset. Not that I’d be 100% against a 1” spacer on the RW.

Pretty much agree, just get the wheel in the offset you want. Why chase a discontinued (and ugly) wheel?

If anything i would do the HE BBS wheels instead.
Harsh. Can’t argue with the discontinued and most likely has rings bolted on that will never come off again unless they were well maintained.
 
The 286/70R17 is the OEM fitment for the RWs on a 200 series.

I run the Toyo AT3 in that LT285/75R17 on no spacer and it fits fine. Definitely have to move some plastic, and I definitely scrape plastic if I slam on the brakes while I’m in a full lock turn (basically every time I pull into my driveway) but other than that I have no rubbing.

I agree with others here though, if I decide to go to a 35 at some point, I’d find a wheel with a 25-40mm offset. Not that I’d be 100% against a 1” spacer on the RW.


Harsh. Can’t argue with the discontinued and most likely has rings bolted on that will never come off again unless they were well maintained.

Lol sorry.
It was great for its time and a legendary wheel!!!
Legend!
 
I feel like running spacers with Rock warriors is pointless. the biggest advantage of running rock warriors is to have an optimal offset, spacers defeat this purpose. If you want less, and were to offset for aesthetics, get a rim with less offset.
I originally purchased the RW wheels for their light weight. The offset was good to begin with inside of smaller tires (34’s & 35’s), but still needed a small spacer to clear the UCA.
As my tires have gotten taller and the spacers get thicker, I would like less offset. (I do really love the look of them though 😉)
 
I’ve been trying to resist asking the question but I’m at a point where it’s either just do it or ask the pros here on mud.

Here’s what I’d like to run on my 2016 570:
Rock warriors
285/75/17 yoko go15 (33.9 x 11.3)
I have bora 1” spacers as well if needed.

From what I’ve read here, spacers are not necessary but shouldn’t harm anything if the stance is preferred. Also, I’m expecting to do some minor massaging of the mud flaps and liners.

Any other issues I’m missing?
That works for an effective offset of 25. Lots of people run that size tire and offset. You should be fine with minimal plastic fender/mud flap massaging.
 
Whats the biggest tire that i can fit onto my 2010 LX with stock 20" rims with no mods, or with AHC disabled and stuck in HIGH?
 
Whats the biggest tire that i can fit onto my 2010 LX with stock 20" rims with no mods, or with AHC disabled and stuck in HIGH?
With absolutely no mods of any sort, I’d say 33”. Most go to 34” with super minor inner fender “adjustments”. And 35’s have been proven to be fairly easy too with a little more commitment and work. Search @TeCKis300 thread about full fat 35x12.5’s.

No personal experiences with general purpose tires on the 20” wheel, but I was happy with my 34” winter studded tires on the factory wheel.

Virtually no one here has locked (disabled after lifting) their vehicles into AHC High. It’s generally felt to be a compromise of so many of the benefits of AHC. That being said, I know at least one person has done that on one of the Facebook groups and then taken it in for an alignment so they must be committed to leaving it disabled and in High. However, I don’t think it really gives you any tire size benefit. If you are off-road, and in low range, the suspension should still be able to articulate and cycle, meaning you still have the same tire size limitations when the suspension compresses.
 
Whats the biggest tire that i can fit onto my 2010 LX with stock 20" rims with no mods, or with AHC disabled and stuck in HIGH?
275 60 r20 is the easiest (32.9”)
275 65 r20 has been done (34.1”)

Both do well to have wheel spacers to “push” the tires outwards from the body of the vehicle-1”-1.25” is usually recommended at minimum though 0.75” can be done w some mods.

The issue with running light truck tires at these sizes is that stock, your suspension is happy and feels good at 33 psi…but going to those light truck/lt larger tires requires around 38-42 psi (depending on what size you run) in order to meet the minimum load requirements.

In my experience, this resulted in an uncomfortably jarring ride at 40 psi with lt275 60 r20. Even with the weaker p/euro metric 275 60 r20 run at lower pressure, I still found the ride to be unacceptably rough, given the compromise that running a p/eurometric tire offered.

I’ve gone down the rabbit hole on these sizes and determined that, all things considered, for my uses, I’ll probably settle on a c or e rated 285 70 r17…or 285 75 r17.

These trucks, I think, deserve a tire with some sidewall (17” wheel) to give them a more cushioned ride than the lesser sidewalls heights offered in a 20” wheel.

Though, there’s pluses and minuses to any wheel and tire package.
 
Whats the biggest tire that i can fit onto my 2010 LX with stock 20" rims with no mods, or with AHC disabled and stuck in HIGH?
Wheel offset is the most important factor in fitting larger tires with least possible mods. Too much offset and taller tires interfere with UCA, too little offset and the tires arc when turning will be greater meaning more clearance in the fender well needed. And at extremes tires may not tuck into wheel wells.

If running stock wheels, there are .75/1.0/1.25 spacer options. With the two smaller spacers your wheels will need to be able to accommodate the wheel studs protruding the spacers. I believe the OEM 20” wheels for a 2010 do accommodate this.

With a spacer 33-35” is pretty easy, especially if you don't go that wide (275-295mm). A 34.5” tire won’t fit in the spare location though, so may want to consider that as well. Anything bigger than a small 33” (32-32.5”) will require some plastic treatment to fit without rubbing. Up to a smaller 35” only requires more aggressive plastic movement. Wide (12.5”) and 35” tires need a BMC or a perfect alignment to work without contact.
 
Wheel offset is the most important factor in fitting larger tires with least possible mods. Too much offset and taller tires interfere with UCA, too little offset and the tires arc when turning will be greater meaning more clearance in the fender well needed. And at extremes tires may not tuck into wheel wells.

If running stock wheels, there are .75/1.0/1.25 spacer options. With the two smaller spacers your wheels will need to be able to accommodate the wheel studs protruding the spacers. I believe the OEM 20” wheels for a 2010 do accommodate this.

With a spacer 33-35” is pretty easy, especially if you don't go that wide (275-295mm). A 34.5” tire won’t fit in the spare location though, so may want to consider that as well. Anything bigger than a small 33” (32-32.5”) will require some plastic treatment to fit without rubbing. Up to a smaller 35” only requires more aggressive plastic movement. Wide (12.5”) and 35” tires need a BMC or a perfect alignment to work without contact.
0.75” spacer with 2010 wheel will require mild relief cutting/drilling in the wheels. There are already pockets in the back of the wheels, though the pockets aren’t centered…so a bit of drilling/grinding is necessary.
 
295/60r20
Whats the biggest tire that i can fit onto my 2010 LX with stock 20" rims with no mods, or with AHC disabled and stuck in HIGH?

I'm assuming you're looking for an easy fitment, that gets you into a well rounded AT tire in all regards.

I would highly recommend a 295/55R20. This is practically equivalent in overall dimensional specs to a once offered TRD size option on the LC. Sized up in all dimensions, including a touch in width to compensate and maintain good on-road handling and braking, as AT tires tend to use treads with more voids with taller less stable tread blocks. Pair this with a .75" or 1" spacer.

I would not disable AHC. That's misdirected. The best part of AHC is its dynamic ability to compensate for height and damping and it'll perform like crap if disabled in high. A better strategy if you want higher ride height is to use sensor lifts, which can easily get you ~1.75" lift all around. Perfect as it keeps the suspension geometry still in its sweet spot. Then pair with the taller tire, sitting pretty with a nicely aggressive posture. Setup this way, with .75" tire lift, 1.75" suspension lift, nets 2.5" more base lift. Throw it in AHC high, at which point it's a 5"+ lift on demand.

When you're ready, the LX will easily take 34 or 35" tires too.
 
295/60r20

I'm assuming you're looking for an easy fitment, that gets you into a well rounded AT tire in all regards.

I would highly recommend a 295/55R20. This is practically equivalent in overall dimensional specs to a once offered TRD size option on the LC. Sized up in all dimensions, including a touch in width to compensate and maintain good on-road handling and braking, as AT tires tend to use treads with more voids with taller less stable tread blocks. Pair this with a .75" or 1" spacer.

I would not disable AHC. That's misdirected. The best part of AHC is its dynamic ability to compensate for height and damping and it'll perform like crap if disabled in high. A better strategy if you want higher ride height is to use sensor lifts, which can easily get you ~1.75" lift all around. Perfect as it keeps the suspension geometry still in its sweet spot. Then pair with the taller tire, sitting pretty with a nicely aggressive posture. Setup this way, with .75" tire lift, 1.75" suspension lift, nets 2.5" more base lift. Throw it in AHC high, at which point it's a 5"+ lift on demand.

When you're ready, the LX will easily take 34 or 35" tires too.

Thank you for the reply. Should i adjust my sensors all the way to the max? By looking at various videos on Youtube people either push them all the way up or do it in increments. Would pushing them all the way up net me 1.75" of lift? I also read somewhere(i think on this forum) that additional AHC fluid will be required after the sensor lift?
 
Thank you for the reply. Should i adjust my sensors all the way to the max? By looking at various videos on Youtube people either push them all the way up or do it in increments. Would pushing them all the way up net me 1.75" of lift? I also read somewhere(i think on this forum) that additional AHC fluid will be required after the sensor lift?

No additional fluid required
 
295/60r20

I'm assuming you're looking for an easy fitment, that gets you into a well rounded AT tire in all regards.

I would highly recommend a 295/55R20. This is practically equivalent in overall dimensional specs to a once offered TRD size option on the LC. Sized up in all dimensions, including a touch in width to compensate and maintain good on-road handling and braking, as AT tires tend to use treads with more voids with taller less stable tread blocks. Pair this with a .75" or 1" spacer.

I would not disable AHC. That's misdirected. The best part of AHC is its dynamic ability to compensate for height and damping and it'll perform like crap if disabled in high. A better strategy if you want higher ride height is to use sensor lifts, which can easily get you ~1.75" lift all around. Perfect as it keeps the suspension geometry still in its sweet spot. Then pair with the taller tire, sitting pretty with a nicely aggressive posture. Setup this way, with .75" tire lift, 1.75" suspension lift, nets 2.5" more base lift. Throw it in AHC high, at which point it's a 5"+ lift on demand.

When you're ready, the LX will easily take 34 or 35" tires too.
What spacers would you recommend for stock wheels?
 
1". It'll work better than the 1.25" spacers that may be more common.
Bora makes 1” spacers and are generally considered a quality/trusted brand.
 

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