Subwoofer Options... (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I believe the box would be slightly larger than the one for the 8" sub. Not sure about the measurements. You might need to compare the two boxes. The depth (well the distance between the plastic cover and the rear fender) decreases as it goes up from the trunk floor.
Not sure if it will fit turned 90 degrees.
Probably with lots of trimming of the inside plastic panel and the bottom of the panel out about 1-2" it might fit.
Pure guess here.
The box looks much bigger though.
TS-SWX251 - 10" Preloaded Shallow-Mount Component Subwoofer Enclosure
vs
TS-SWX2002 - 8" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure
You need to get inside there and measure the area really good.
Or maybe get two 8" boxes to fit on both sides, given you don't need the bottle jack, tools and whatever else is there.
Not sure if it will fit turned 90 degrees.
Probably with lots of trimming of the inside plastic panel and the bottom of the panel out about 1-2" it might fit.
Pure guess here.
The box looks much bigger though.
TS-SWX251 - 10" Preloaded Shallow-Mount Component Subwoofer Enclosure
- Enclosure Size: 18-9/16" x 12" x 5-29/32" (W x H x D)
vs
TS-SWX2002 - 8" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure
- Enclosure size (WxDxH): 11-3/4" x 9-1/4" x 5-1/2"
You need to get inside there and measure the area really good.
Or maybe get two 8" boxes to fit on both sides, given you don't need the bottle jack, tools and whatever else is there.
If you’re going to keep your 3rd row seats in then I highly recommend the QPower universal SUV subwoofer box. It’s downward firing and it fits flush between the rear seats and rear hatch. Looking in you can’t tell it’s a subwoofer box as it takes up all but 4-6” of the width. Plus it’s easily removable. Even if you’re not keeping your 3rd seats you could move the box flush behind the second row seats and I doubt anyone would know what’s in the tall wedgeshaped box behind your seats.
NEW Q POWER SUV12 DUAL 12" SEALED DOWN FIRING 3RD ROW SUV SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE | eBay
NEW Q POWER SUV12 DUAL 12" SEALED DOWN FIRING 3RD ROW SUV SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE | eBay
I just don't think an 8 is enough, I guess I could do 2 8's but a single 10 is what I'm shooting for.
It all depends on your style of music and listening preference.
It will never rattle the windows on the car behind you.
I had my requirements for what my sub and low freq should do in my car and this setup fits my needs perfectly. I also keep the subwoofer level at 4 (controlled by the headunit). No gain or any extra "kick".
If you like more bass than I do, than you need at least 2 x 10".
Mine is what a manufacturer would install in a new car. I mean the level of bass output. I don't need any more than that.
Put it this way, if you are not satisfied with a new car's bass output, you will not be satisfied with my setup.
If you want the people three car behind you to close their windows at a stop light, this is not for you.
I believe that's a long throw sub, so it is a lot better than my shallow mount one.
Where do you have it installed?
Where do you have it installed?
I fit a 12" shallow mount that barely fits behind the trim piece. It should only need a few small tweaks to make it fit better, just haven't taken the time. On the other side I fit both the amps. Thought I had a picture of it with the trim piece on but couldn't find one.
That's a subwoofer alright.
IS there any interference between the membrane and the plastic panel?
IS there any interference between the membrane and the plastic panel?
I fit a 12" shallow mount that barely fits behind the trim piece. It should only need a few small tweaks to make it fit better, just haven't taken the time. On the other side I fit both the amps. Thought I had a picture of it with the trim piece on but couldn't find one.
This!!!! Do you have a step by step build
No interference but that's because I put a grill over when I was done with everything. 
Unfortunately that's a negative on a build. My father is a shade tree carpenter so he did most of the work building the enclosure. It's just about the biggest you can fit in there and still it's on the very low end of the minimum space requirements for that subwoofer. Poly-fil was added to help out.
Unfortunately that's a negative on a build. My father is a shade tree carpenter so he did most of the work building the enclosure. It's just about the biggest you can fit in there and still it's on the very low end of the minimum space requirements for that subwoofer. Poly-fil was added to help out.
No interference but that's because I put a grill over when I was done with everything.
Unfortunately that's a negative on a build. My father is a shade tree carpenter so he did most of the work building the enclosure. It's just about the biggest you can fit in there and still it's on the very low end of the minimum space requirements for that subwoofer. Poly-fil was added to help out.
Dangit, I would love to know how he did it
This might work, going to take measurements in the morning
SOUND STORM LOPRO10 10 inch 1200-watt Amplified Subwoofer System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CY13W2/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_lMoMzbP3R7V8B
SOUND STORM LOPRO10 10 inch 1200-watt Amplified Subwoofer System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CY13W2/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_lMoMzbP3R7V8B
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
I'm planning on building a fiberglass enclosure that fits inside my spare tire, doing some research, but if anyone's done that before, please pipe up.
This 2.5" tall self-powered Cerwin Vega 10" sub fits in both the factory sub location (behind the panel) as well as under the driver's seat if you want (very tight fit made easier by ~1/2" of spacers for the rear two seat bolts). For just $175 it gives you more than enough bass to make your wife/GF complain ... had it in mine before upping my bass game with 2-12s to ensure full GF whinage.
VPAS10 - Vega Woofers - Subwoofers - Mobile Audio - Products
VPAS10 - Vega Woofers - Subwoofers - Mobile Audio - Products
Last edited:
So I went with one of these: 8" CompRT Subwoofer - 2 Ohm | KICKER®, mounted on one of these: Whole Hog FJ80 Toyota LandCruiser Products. But...the sub was enclosed in a fiberglass box that used the whole hog mount as the basis for the box. So before anyone goes hating on me for the whole hog mount, it got modified. I have no rattles, squeaks, etc. that I've seen referenced on MUD. I have two 80's with this set-up and it all fits behind the stock panel. I won't begin to claim it has the best sound, but to my 51-year-old ears it's very nice.
Build thread or pics???
Sorry. Not quite a year later, but here is the sound test everyone was waiting for.
Don't know what the hell took me so long.
I know this thread is old, but wanted to get some information out there in case other are in need of replacing their rear factory sub.
I have been updating the sound system gradually over the last year or so and the sub was the last item. I have read alot of threads on here, more than I care to admit, about replacing the sub. Most people end up either modifying the original bracket and/or location or just replace with a larger speaker and an amp.
I wanted better sound, but I did not want to modify the original items. This is due to three factors, 1) I am not an audiophile and just want some music while I am in the truck 2) I want it to be capable of being converted back if someone down the road decides and 3) I wanted to keep the cost down.
I removed the old bracket and took some measurements, knowing from previous reading that the original subwoofer was not a standard size. I did notice the cutout was just under 6.5". I searched for a 6.5" subwoofer that had the closest inside dimensions and found the Skar 6.5" woofer (model FSX65). I ordered one and it fit without needing any modification to the framework or mounting holes. I did however need to make one modification to the stock speaker connection because it was prohibitive to retain.
Since this is a woofer and not a subwoofer, I knew I would never get any deep base but heck I am running the stock amp so that was never in the cards anyway. Overall, the speaker does add to the sound quality, but I do not know how much a placebo effect of not hearing the constant crackling and popping the old one produced. This is definitely worth the $25 in cost and I would do again.
I have been updating the sound system gradually over the last year or so and the sub was the last item. I have read alot of threads on here, more than I care to admit, about replacing the sub. Most people end up either modifying the original bracket and/or location or just replace with a larger speaker and an amp.
I wanted better sound, but I did not want to modify the original items. This is due to three factors, 1) I am not an audiophile and just want some music while I am in the truck 2) I want it to be capable of being converted back if someone down the road decides and 3) I wanted to keep the cost down.
I removed the old bracket and took some measurements, knowing from previous reading that the original subwoofer was not a standard size. I did notice the cutout was just under 6.5". I searched for a 6.5" subwoofer that had the closest inside dimensions and found the Skar 6.5" woofer (model FSX65). I ordered one and it fit without needing any modification to the framework or mounting holes. I did however need to make one modification to the stock speaker connection because it was prohibitive to retain.
Since this is a woofer and not a subwoofer, I knew I would never get any deep base but heck I am running the stock amp so that was never in the cards anyway. Overall, the speaker does add to the sound quality, but I do not know how much a placebo effect of not hearing the constant crackling and popping the old one produced. This is definitely worth the $25 in cost and I would do again.
