1HDFT & 1HDFTE observations-discussion (10 Viewers)

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According to this the FTE has the better piston design….


I am talking about FTE to FTE not FTE to FT.

Thanks for the document though.

Cheers
 
I am on a mobile with limited data, overlanding through Brazil at the moment, so can’t dig too much around older posts, but you might try doing a google image search with the two sets of piston numbers and compare. Partsouq is nice, as most of the times it has good quality photos of the parts from several angles, except for the times when it only has a schematic and no photos for the parts you need the most 🤣

My memory is fuzzy, as it has been almost 3 years now, but the 79 and the EGR cooled (European) 100 series seemed to have the same injector part numbers, which are different from the non-cooled 100. My understanding is that injectors and pistons should go together and not be mismatched, so I would go with the same type of pistons as you currently have 🤷‍♂️
 
Part numbers are definitely different for injectors between the two as well. I will probably just go with the 100 FTE pistons since that is what the block is but I am curious. I thought I remember something about one having a better piston design as well but searching doesn't bring up any discussions.

Cheers

Lcool forum would have had the answer for this. Shame it's gone.

Pretty sure the 100 series fte had quite a bit higher output than the 79? They ran a different tune, different ECU?
My memory is not clear on this, but the 100 series fte was the engine of choice for engine swaps back in the day.

Not sure that helps?
 
What happened to the LCOOL forum? Why is it gone, do we know?
 
Lcool forum would have had the answer for this. Shame it's gone.

Pretty sure the 100 series fte had quite a bit higher output than the 79? They ran a different tune, different ECU?
My memory is not clear on this, but the 100 series fte was the engine of choice for engine swaps back in the day.

Not sure that helps?
The only advantage to a 79 FTE for a swap is they don't have an immobilizer so slightly easier to work with
 
79 series were rated at 167hp
100 series at 202hp

Is the intercooler the only difference?
Fuel pump is a different P/N and there are multiple piston part numbers between FTEs, but with a unichip or DTE module and the same mods they make more or less the same power. If I put a Gturbo, 3" exhaust, airbox upgrade and a PDI intercooler on a HDJ79 or HDJ100, the dyno doesn't show much in it, they'll make high 100s kw and ~700 nm reliably.
 
Fuel pump is a different P/N and there are multiple piston part numbers between FTEs, but with a unichip or DTE module and the same mods they make more or less the same power. If I put a Gturbo, 3" exhaust, airbox upgrade and a PDI intercooler on a HDJ79 or HDJ100, the dyno doesn't show much in it, they'll make high 100s kw and ~700 nm reliably.
That was vaguely my memory. Differences in pump, pistons and I thought injectors too, but was unsure of specifics of differences
 
The European HDJ100 with the EGR cooler uses the same piston & injector part numbers as the HDJ79 and are rated for the same 204hp as the Aus HDJ100.
The HDJ79 uses a different pump than either the cooled/non-cooled EGR European and the Aus HDJ100.
The non-EGR cooled European HDJ100 share the same piston, pump & injectors as the Aus HDJ100, again rated for 204hp. The cooled EGR HDJ100 uses again a different pump.

I am very curious as to why this different combos exist, especially EGR-cooled vs non-cooled, there is very cool HDFTE facebook group, might be worth asking there.
 
Important Public Service Announcement

If you put a MAF in the intake backwards the ECU throws a code saying the Suction Control Valve has stuck. The Suction Control Valve is a component that not only requires removal of the injection pump but also calibration of the SCV by a qualified injection service facility. I believe Toyota did this on purpose to scare the living s*** out of any dumb ass who dares install their MAF upside down.
 
AF709EB9-B9F4-49BF-851D-615064921281.jpeg



Cheers
 
The European HDJ100 with the EGR cooler uses the same piston & injector part numbers as the HDJ79 and are rated for the same 204hp as the Aus HDJ100.
The HDJ79 uses a different pump than either the cooled/non-cooled EGR European and the Aus HDJ100.
The non-EGR cooled European HDJ100 share the same piston, pump & injectors as the Aus HDJ100, again rated for 204hp. The cooled EGR HDJ100 uses again a different pump.

I am very curious as to why this different combos exist, especially EGR-cooled vs non-cooled, there is very cool HDFTE facebook group, might be worth asking there.

Different part numbers doesn't mean fundamentally different parts. They could just be later revisions of the same parts. They can also be the same parts for different markets (Nissan does this and it means I'll never own another).
The HDJ79 fitment outlived the HDJ100 fitments by several years. Regulations come into it too. I imagine once you have a euro engine certified to pass emissions you don't change it unless necessary.
 
Different part numbers doesn't mean fundamentally different parts. They could just be later revisions of the same parts. They can also be the same parts for different markets (Nissan does this and it means I'll never own another).
The HDJ79 fitment outlived the HDJ100 fitments by several years. Regulations come into it too. I imagine once you have a euro engine certified to pass emissions you don't change it unless necessary.
What markets got the hdj79 past 2006?
 
Prepping this FTE block for paint and assembly. My machine shop didn’t take any off the top of the block so I double checked with my straight adge. .20mm max warpage, my thinnest feeler gauge is .127mm and it is not even close to fitting anywhere so this one is as good as new.

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90428AA9-B4DD-4011-B81A-7C1D88FC307C.jpeg
29F047CF-918A-4975-8366-C42DA347D6E3.jpeg
9916EAAE-B065-4F64-9002-E6085FE8E08A.jpeg


I used an expensive 1000g big wet stone to clean the top of the block before checking with the straight edge. I like to do this if they don’t get machined so they are super clean.

Cheers
 
So on this one, it is around a 2002 gen. The bores were out by a thousand or two, my machinist felt we could run it with fresh rings and light hone but I said nah so we bored it and got new OEM .50 over pistons. As pictured above we had tops and skirts ceramic coated.

Typical head clogged with soot and gum/gunk, Euro spec EGR equipped FTE. We went all new valves, springs, stem seals, ect on the head. Took 2mm off head bolt seats under cam for the FTE ARP’s and to feel comfy about that clearance vs any clearancing of the ARP’s. I can’t recall if the clearance out of the box under the cam, iirc there is something in the instructions about this, not running the washer or something like that. We just take the head stud seat down 2mm under the cam and all is good to go. 🤙

Crank only needed a polish.

If you guys like the “build outs” I will keep posting on this one? Or we can stick more to the tech side and the original point of the thread?

Cheers
 
So on this one, it is around a 2002 gen. The bores were out by a thousand or two, my machinist felt we could run it with fresh rings and light hone but I said nah so we bored it and got new OEM .50 over pistons. As pictured above we had tops and skirts ceramic coated.

Typical head clogged with soot and gum/gunk, Euro spec EGR equipped FTE. We went all new valves, springs, stem seals, ect on the head. Took 2mm off head bolt seats under cam for the FTE ARP’s and to feel comfy about that clearance vs any clearancing of the ARP’s. I can’t recall if the clearance out of the box under the cam, iirc there is something in the instructions about this, not running the washer or something like that. We just take the head stud seat down 2mm under the cam and all is good to go. 🤙

Crank only needed a polish.

If you guys like the “build outs” I will keep posting on this one? Or we can stick more to the tech side and the original point of the thread?

Cheers
How involved is the process to completely clean up the mess from years of EGR? Save it to do in conjunction with an engine rebuild?

I have a 150K mi 1HDFT and I'll be deleting the EGR next week. Wasn't planning on disassembly for cleaning it any time soon though...
 
How involved is the process to completely clean up the mess from years of EGR? Save it to do in conjunction with an engine rebuild?

I have a 150K mi 1HDFT and I'll be deleting the EGR next week. Wasn't planning on disassembly for cleaning it any time soon though...


I am not sure how you could get this clean without tearing down the head.

85C39D08-3D59-4D3A-ADFD-98FCA06177FA.jpeg


Cheers
 
So on this one, it is around a 2002 gen. The bores were out by a thousand or two, my machinist felt we could run it with fresh rings and light hone but I said nah so we bored it and got new OEM .50 over pistons. As pictured above we had tops and skirts ceramic coated.

Typical head clogged with soot and gum/gunk, Euro spec EGR equipped FTE. We went all new valves, springs, stem seals, ect on the head. Took 2mm off head bolt seats under cam for the FTE ARP’s and to feel comfy about that clearance vs any clearancing of the ARP’s. I can’t recall if the clearance out of the box under the cam, iirc there is something in the instructions about this, not running the washer or something like that. We just take the head stud seat down 2mm under the cam and all is good to go. 🤙

Crank only needed a polish.

If you guys like the “build outs” I will keep posting on this one? Or we can stick more to the tech side and the original point of the thread?

Cheers
As you are sir, all good stuff..
 

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