Gas tank troubles (1 Viewer)

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Sep 27, 2018
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Colorado Springs
So I’ve got a 91 Cruiser that had a 3fe in it, now has a 350 small block Chevy and OF COURSE 3 days after I get it back running after alternator problems I go and fill it up after payday and ive got a big ol gas leak (there goes a days worth of pay) it’s not coming from any of my hoses or pump/sender assembly. What I really need to know is there any real difference between a 3fe and a 1FZ tank. I’ve got a guy near me with scrappers that’s got 93 and on but none of his older ones have tanks left
 
So I’ve got a 91 Cruiser that had a 3fe in it, now has a 350 small block Chevy and OF COURSE 3 days after I get it back running after alternator problems I go and fill it up after payday and ive got a big ol gas leak (there goes a days worth of pay) it’s not coming from any of my hoses or pump/sender assembly. What I really need to know is there any real difference between a 3fe and a 1FZ tank. I’ve got a guy near me with scrappers that’s got 93 and on but none of his older ones have tanks left
When I started baselining my 91 same thing happened to me. I also sourced a 93 part out and it bolts right in.
 
Original tank was cracked on the thin spot where stamped during manufacturing.
 
Is it repairable usually? I’ve got a buddy who builds gas tanks for a living
Most say it cracks from pressurization from a bad/faulty charcoal canister. I think after 30+ years of wear and tear, vibrations, etc anything can happen. I would imagine it can be welded but I just replaced mine. Easy enough
 
Most say it cracks from pressurization from a bad/faulty charcoal canister. I think after 30+ years of wear and tear, vibrations, etc anything can happen. I would imagine it can be welded but I just replaced mine. Easy enough
So I got mine down and it’s exactly the same as everyone else’s, cracked at the front right at the ridge for the park brake cable. I’ve got a buddy who could weld it up no problem but the concern is it cracking again right next to it, is this just a poor design in that one spot and a good weld will hold together fine or do people tend to have repeat failures after repairing it. I’d be happy with 5 years to have to pull the tank again
 
So I got mine down and it’s exactly the same as everyone else’s, cracked at the front right at the ridge for the park brake cable. I’ve got a buddy who could weld it up no problem but the concern is it cracking again right next to it, is this just a poor design in that one spot and a good weld will hold together fine or do people tend to have repeat failures after repairing it. I’d be happy with 5 years to have to pull the tank again
There have been guys that have brazed their tanks and had to go back in about 2 years later.

A couple have welded them, but they crack again in the HAZ.

I think if you weld it, then use a torch to anneal it and SLOOOOWWW cool it, to help reduce the effect of the HAZ, you may get a long term repair.

91-97 tanks are all the same. There is a full thread on this issue here:


 
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There have been guys that have brazed their tanks and had to go back in about 2 years later.

A couple have welded them, but they crack again in the HAZ.

I think if you weld it, then use a torch to anneal it and SLOOOOWWW cool it, to help reduce the effect of the HAZ, you may get a long term repair.

91-97 tanks are all the same. There is a full thread on this issue here:
Dammit ok, also what’s is the HAZ? And how reliable are used tanks?
 
Dammit ok, also what’s is the HAZ? And how reliable are used tanks?
The HAZ is the Heat Affected Zone on a weld. it's why most weld repairs crack next to the weld. The molecular structure of the steel changes due to the weld and it crystallizes. Doing a "heat treat" and normalizing the structure will help keep it "pliable" and allow it to flex with less tendency to crack.

I have sourced my used tank from @slow95z but I'm not sure how many he has left. A new tank is available from Toyota for about $600 + freight at last check.

See my last post, as I have added one link and will add a couple more for the other gas tank threads.

There is some reference to NHTSA and everyone trying to report this to get Toyota to step up for a new tank.

You definitely need to check / replace your charcoal canister, check valve, and hoses to make sure that system is operating correctly. I also recommend replacing the gas cap with an OEM cap.

There is also @arcteryx that may have used good tanks.
 
The HAZ is the Heat Affected Zone on a weld. it's why most weld repairs crack next to the weld. The molecular structure of the steel changes due to the weld and it crystallizes. Doing a "heat treat" and normalizing the structure will help keep it "pliable" and allow it to flex with less tendency to crack.

I have sourced my used tank from @slow95z but I'm not sure how many he has left. A new tank is available from Toyota for about $600 + freight at last check.

See my last post, as I have added one link and will add a couple more for the other gas tank threads.

There is some reference to NHTSA and everyone trying to report this to get Toyota to step up for a new tank.

You definitely need to check / replace your charcoal canister, check valve, and hoses to make sure that system is operating correctly. I also recommend replacing the gas cap with an OEM cap.

There is also @arcteryx that may have used good tanks.
Ok, only options I’ve seen pop up for a new tank is a single one for a grand new and like 3k for a custom long range tank and I just can’t justify that much money right now, also that’s what me and my buddy were thinking if we were to reweld it that it’ll just crack again same way, but I have an engine swap in my with a charcoal canister run to ported vacuum. Gas cap is not oem for sure so I can source that.
 
Ok, only options I’ve seen pop up for a new tank is a single one for a grand new and like 3k for a custom long range tank and I just can’t justify that much money right now, also that’s what me and my buddy were thinking if we were to reweld it that it’ll just crack again same way, but I have an engine swap in my with a charcoal canister run to ported vacuum. Gas cap is not oem for sure so I can source that.
Check the link to the thread I just added. In that thread is a link to Amazon for a Toyota tank for $642.

Check the McGeorge Toyota site, enter your VIN and get a price and availability from them.

If not them, try www.partsouq.com and Olathe Toyota Olathe Toyota Parts Center - https://parts.olathetoyota.com/
 
I do have 2 tanks currently I would sell
 

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