Retirement Shop (1 Viewer)

[PIP]

Interior walls and ceilings need very little support for metal siding. 4' is a typical spacing for wood wall purlins or ceiling joists inside a building. I have used as far as 7' spacing with no issues.

I'm not the biggest fan for how some put an 8 or 10' tall "nice" wall around the inside of a building and then put something cheap or nothing above that.

Consider logistics too. If you use sheetrock it isn't helping anything unless it's taped. Without finish mud, sanding, texture and paint it's ugly. Real ugly when it turns yellow in a few years. If your shop isn't empty for this it's a huge mess to mud, texture and paint (got that T-shirt too many times).

Metal goes up so easy on walls and ceilings. I've done areas of my building in tin where I was felling lazy and just ran the metal sideways on vertical wood framing. It looks decent and took very little time.

 

[waiting for time]

My shop has underlayment covered with sheet rock on the walls.
this makes it easy to hang stuff and It still looks good, not yellow, after about 10 years.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Spent some time over the last few days working on wiring. Pretty much have all my circuits planned now and the 20 position (30 circuit) load center is just going to work. I will have to use 3 tandem breakers though as I couldn't make it work with only 20 positions. Not to go into an extended saga but it took me a while to figure out how to cut the power off to the shop. None of the breakers worked in the two main Load centers at the house. By trial and error I figured out that the power was coming out of one of the load centers with a "through lug" installation. The lugs couldn't be seen unless you pulled the interior cover plate. Apparently it's not uncommon but it wasn't anything that I had ever encountered ........of course I'm not an electrician.

Installed the 20 amp, 220v circuit for the lift. Nice being able to actually use it.

 

[Michael B]

Awesome! Nice to see the 75 back home.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Awesome! Nice to see the 75 back home.

Thanks. Got it back in mid November. I've been driving it around town quite a bit lately.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm quite pleased with the lighting distribution. Plenty of light under the lift with minimal shadowing.

 

[Blastservices]

Nice spot, Greg! Dig the Nautique too!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Well let the fun begin. Birch plywood took a major dip so I bought enough to do the front, left side, and all of the back except the last 8’ where the bathroom is going.

 

[Blastservices]

Heck yea!! Get it done!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Heck yea!! Get it done!

Stay safe and dry Todd. My BIL and his wife live in Ozello. Forecast isn't looking too good for them.

 

[Michael B]

I see most of the gym has been relocated.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I see most of the gym has been relocated.

Youngest son still has all his weights in that back corner. He just took a new job in Baton Rouge - great opportunity for him. So those will be gone in a couple of weeks.

 

[Blastservices]

Stay safe and dry Todd. My BIL and his wife live in Ozello. Forecast isn't looking too good for them.

It flew by us and we are getting bands still but piece of cake. Hoping the northern part of the state isn’t getting hit to bad.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Well just to update the modest progress that I've made since I last posted, here's a photo of the back wall which is complete except for the corner where the bathroom is going. I also have the left side wall and the front wall framed (second photo showing the framing). I just need to get the plywood panels cut, painted, and installed.

I really like the way these panels are turning out but I have to say that I chose a solution that is definitely toward the more complicated and labor intensive end of the spectrum.

I also decided a few months ago that I needed additional covered storage so I have placed an order with a steel building company for a 20' expansion on the right side of the shop (20x40 total). The Lean-To addition will follow the same roof line (1:12 pitch) and will have open walls with a skirt from the top of the walls to the 12' girt line. Unfortunately I had a few large trees in the footprint including a 30" White Oak that had to be removed. The company that came in did a fantastic job and certainly had all the tools to make it a very safe operation. They removed all the trees and ground the stumps.

Next up will be the site prep contractor who will remove the remaining roots and organic containing material and will backfill and compact the site. Foundation and slab will follow. Planning on a full 6" of 4000 psi with a burnished finish to match the interior concrete. Going to cut in a man door that matches my front man door just over half way to the back of the existing shop wall.

I've attached a few photos of before and after and some of the trees coming down.

 

[Blastservices]

Nice work! The added interior framing will help insulate for temp and noise. Keep going!! Progress rules!!!

 

[Michael B]

The interior is coming along nicely Greg. What type of paneling is that? I have seen those “spiders” before, but that boom truck is new to me. I presume the cutter tied off the section to be cut and then the piece was lowered after cutting?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The interior is coming along nicely Greg. What type of paneling is that? I have seen those “spiders” before, but that boom truck is new to me. I presume the cutter tied off the section to be cut and then the piece was lowered after cutting?

Thanks Mike. 3/4" birch plywood on the bottom and 1/2" birch on the top. I was watching prices and the birch suddenly dropped below B/C plywood. No sanding required for my purposes.

That boom truck is totally badass. It has 140+ (can't remember last digit) of stick and multiple attachments. They did use a strap at times but most of the time they used an articulating grapple which required nothing from the saw guy in the manlift. It's operated via a remote from the ground. Here's the best photos I have of the grapple in action.

They also had a 24" capacity chipper so 90% +/- of the material was chipped on site. Pretty sure they could take care of a Mimosa Tree without issue.

 

[Michael B]

Hey now, hands off the Mimosas tree!

Thats a serious chipper for sure.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

There were a couple of things for the shop under the tree this year.

Merry Christmas everyone!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Site prep contractor showed up last week and my concrete guy was in between commercial jobs for a few days so we got the slab poured this week. 6" of 4000 psi with a 12"x12" turndown foundation on all 4 sides (basically matching the existing shop slab and foundation). Two #4's tied together in the footing and #4 dowels 6" deep into the existing slab on 18" centers. We also doweled the ramp into the existing apron and new slab. Existing apron edge measured almost 9" thick. I assume that's just on the edge but impressive nonetheless.

Poured the slab on Thursday and the ramp to tie it into the existing apron yesterday. Put a machine slicked finish on the slab and a very light broom finish on the ramp. Went with one 20' saw cut right in the middle and nothing on the ramp. Contractor did a great job. I could tell they do a lot of commercial work.

I'm using copious amounts of water and plastic to water cure the concrete for at least 2 weeks. Not too much trouble so might even water cure for a bit longer. Slab slopes away from the existing shop ~1% (2.5" over 20') so all I have to do is pull the plastic back a couple of feet from the shop and hose that area down well. The water then very very slowly migrates to the low side. When I checked the slab this morning it was still wet from yesterday so the plastic is doing a great job holding the water and eliminating evaporation. Water curing is the most effective way to prevent shrinkage cracks. Most people skip this step unfortunately, or, at best, they spray on curing compound and call it a day. Curing compound is better than nothing but not a substitute for keeping the concrete wet.

Still finalizing the design with the steel company but they are anticipating delivery in April. They submitted a design but I wanted to make some changes so we weren't able to imbed the anchor bolts for the 6 columns. Not a huge concern for a lean-to addition. I will drill and use Hilti epoxy anchors when we erect the building. Their rep is coming out next week so we can get the design finalized.