1FZ-FE Stroker Build (5.5L - 102mm Bore - 115mm Stroke) (1 Viewer)

[hazard]

It would be dependent on both measurements. I actually use engine simulator software to tell the exact Dynamic compression ratio. You have to put in all your engine parameters to get it right though; all cam measurements, bore, stroke, head gasket, piston dish or dome, chamber volume etc. Fromm what i have found, in general, "larger" cams lower dynamic.

 

[hazard]

The program is "Engine Analyzer". Very informative and fun to make changes "on paper" before actually trying. It will give you soo much data!

 

[hazard]

Here are a couple of output screen shots of my engine, (not complete but similar to yours) If you blow up to read. Notice it will tell you your "knock index", and valve float etc.
Would love it if you gave me all your specs and I could run a sim for you. Be forwarned; I need everything down to last detail including things like valve spring pressure

 

[gonzopancho]

Excellent!, we will have to take the big mud terrain tires and steel wheels into consideration when you dyno your vehicle.

32x10.50R15 km3s are “big”?

I mean, sure, 55-56lbs for the tire and 24-25 lbs for the wheel, I guess that’s 80lbs at each corner.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

32x10.50R15 km3s are “big”?

I mean, sure, 55-56lbs for the tire and 24-25 lbs for the wheel, I guess that’s 80lbs at each corner.

Initially thought they were 35s.

My 16 inch alloy wheels weighs about: 14.33 lbs

The 30 inch Michelin road tire weights about: 28.6 lbs

Combined weight: 42.9 lbs per corner.

Also worth noting that I am running a lightened flywheel I am sure it frees up some power due to less peristatic loss since it is considerably lighter than the OEM flywheel, not sure by how much though.

I am assuming that model land cruiser (your vehicle) has a part time transfer case, correct? meaning you will test it on the dyno on 2WD?

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Cam swap progress halfway done.

 

[hazard]

This is so awesome. I can only hope to achieve close to what you have.
in it’s first form was it totally street tame?
what would you say created the most power, the intake system, or the tune? My build is so similar except for intake, and I will probably have lower compression. Did you get a final compression yet?

 

[hazard]

I would not imagine nor believe those dyno datalogging numbers #'s are in ft/lbs. I have no chassis dyno experience, but on real water brake engine dyno's it's easy to fudge the correction values for temperature and elevation to get big numbers on the screen. Most shops with dynos do that to get numbers the customer wants to see. As I understand it, chassis dynos are often inertia based which has some inherent problems with getting accurate numbers since it's totally impossible to calculate anything steady state.

While those dyno numbers may seem high, it doesn’t matter. By the videos, and his stated street drive ability at the current tune, it is exactly what we all would like! Can’t wait for more!

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

This is so awesome. I can only hope to achieve close to what you have.
in it’s first form was it totally street tame?
what would you say created the most power, the intake system, or the tune? My build is so similar except for intake, and I will probably have lower compression. Did you get a final compression yet?

Thank you, yes indeed it was 100% street tame, smooth idle at 850 RPM no vibrations, smooth cold starts, able to achieve a 1.05 lambda (15.44 AFR) at idle and part throttle for excellent fuel economy. Let us not forget the added thermal efficiency from the higher compression and increased stroke. As I have mentioned the part throttle response was outstanding and potent, and the bulk of the power and torque came early in the powerband, it died off aggressively after 5,500 RPM. If I didn't have the air intake scoop it would have been an excellent daily driver.

This is my greatest build so far, I have shocked many of my friends with the performance of this build, I even raced my own Nissan y61 patrol with a stage 2 turbo kit (had 517 WHP) Ill try to record next time, managed to bit it 0-60, then it started gaining. I am telling you this stroker launches violently, the first two gears are exhilarating, then the excitement starts to taper off.

I actually did daily it for a couple of days before I installed the larger custom intake manifold, larger throttle body, intake scoop, and 6-1 headers. When it had the stock throttle body it was magnificent since I had full control over the idle using the ISC solenoid, buttery smooth cold starts, turning the AC on kicked the idle up. With the new 3.5 inch throttle body I have no idle control unfortunately (will be fixed with the upcoming 4 inch drive by wire throttle body).

As for what I believe was the biggest power contributor, without a shadow of a doubt the higher displacement from the stroker kit, followed by the camshaft even though it was mild. I worked on 1FZ-FEs in the past (full head work stock crank) and they did not feel this peppy, no where close. Unfortunately I did not dyno it before the intake manifold, throttle body, scoop, and 6-1 headers. But I did test it against the same vehicle the GR Sport Twin Turbo LC300, and I was behind him, so it was making considerably less. One important thing to note is that when it had the stock intake manifold the manifold pressure (MAP Reading) dropped off after peak torque in the ECU, this is indicative of a restrictive intake, with the new stuff the manifold pressure did not drop off.

I am glad you mentioned the low compression pistons, I should have mentioned this earlier, I just discovered recently from the workshop that the 80 series OEM pistons are actually dished from the factory and have lower compression than the GEN 2 1FZ-FE flat pistons. This is why the 80 series OEM pistons are a popular choice for locals who want a safe stage 1 turbo build (6-8 PSI) on a GEN 2 1FZ at a low cost, they have lower compression and are much less prone to knock on boost especially in our hot climate. This is why we cannot compare the GEN 1 and GEN 2 1FZ apples to apples!

I found videos of it in action right after I broke it in, this was around a month and a half ago, it had the stock intake manifold, stock throttle body, a traditional cold air intake (inside the engine bay with a filter, just like any other cold air intake on the market) and 6-2-1 TRI Y headers as opposed to the current 6-1.

It was still pretty powerful, and I actually preferred the sound of the 6-2-1 header as opposed to the current 6-1 header which sounds higher pitched, it had a deeper tone. Notice how different the 6-2-1 header sounds, even thought it is using the same exact exhaust piping and muffler! I notice a lot of people saying the muffler is what controls the tone the headers are just for flow, clearly not!

Here are a collection of the clips of the initial setup around 1.5 months ago.




This was the CAI that was on it, didnt take a picture of the engine bay at that time.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

New camshaft first impressions:

The new camshafts are installed, spent this morning getting the idle tuned, it wanted significantly more ignition advance around the idea area of the table (22 degrees VS 15 degrees) and a greater throttle blade opening since I am using a manual cable throttle body to get it idling properly, it also did not like fuel between 850-1500 RPM, had to trim down the fuel table by a substantial amount or else it would bog down, trimmed the fuel table down low by more than 50%.

I am still not done tuning, I will spend the rest of today cruising around and getting it dialed in, then Ill dyno it tonight to see the results.

Based on my initial WOT testing, it wanted most fuel at 5000 RPM as opposed to the previous cam where it wanted most fuel at 3500 RPM (meaning it probably has a new peak at around 5k), it kept wanting fuel up until 6000 RPM, hopefully it keeps breathing higher and higher we shall see by the end of today.

The cold starts and low RPM drivability have become absolute trash though, as expected with a 106 LSA, it keeps hitching and jerking when cruising below 1,700-1,800 RPM, below 1,800 the brakes are stiff, above 1,800 the brakes are soft again, which also is annoying, have to constantly adapt to the brakes lol.

This cam would be a nightmare on an automatic.

Here is a video of a startup and idle of the new camshaft with the engine fully warm. The second clip I included is the previous cam idling, for comparison.



Sounds wicked

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

This thing is absolute mayhem!, I did an acceleration test with a draggy gps device and it got 5.85 seconds 0-60 mph. Never had I’d thought to see an N/A Land Cruiser go below 6 seconds on the zero to 60.

Unfortunately though even with the new cam it doesn’t like to breathe above 6,000 RPM, manifold pressure starts dropping off, it is both an intake restriction and not enough duration on the cam I suspect. Answer is bigger intake and more duration!

However it does hold the power at high rpm better than the old cam, new power peak is at 4,600 RPM as opposed to the previous cam which was 4,000 RPM.

It gained 25whp with the new cam. Putting it at around 400whp.

I tried playing with the ignition timing but it was already at its limit no use of advancing it any further with no gains. I kept the air fuel on the rich side to help with longevity (future edit: I say longevity here and 24 hours later I break a head stud!) since it didn’t loose any power running richer at WOT, only down side is added fuel consumption. Currently is at around 11.8-12.0 AFR.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

First engine damage occurrence:

To be fair I have been beating the crap out of it no surprise, but what is a surprise is that the head stud failed. I have never seen this happen before. I expect burnt pistons and blown head gaskets but not studs!

Broke a ARP head stud! The one near cylinder six.

When that stud broke the head gasket failed. White smoke.

Not to worry, I eat head gaskets for breakfast! Too used to this with my turbocharged TB48 running 1.6 bar boost.

Head is removed, going to polish it, install a new 2.0mm MLS head gasket, install a new set of ARP head studs. Should be back and ready for more abuse by tomorrow night.

Also going to take this opportunity to ditch the entire intake system and just go with an intake manifold design that is similar to one’s used in turbocharged vehicles. I have no idea if it will work or not on an N/A, well actually I did see one build use it successfully, and when I say successfully I mean that build had great performance. But I am excited to experiment my as always.

If it works well then this will be the substitute for the larger version of the current intake manifold I am using.

This new intake system will require me to locate the battery and will also require a custom larger fuel rail as suggested by the mechanic.

Will this new intake system have trouble at low RPM? Maybe the mid range? Will it no longer be a restriction at all and therefore not drop manifold pressures at higher rpm’s like the current intake setup? Will this be the answer to high rpm performance? We shall see!

Here is a pic of the intake manifold next to my head.

I also included the pic of the build that I was talking about earlier, the one that used this intake system successfully on a 1FZ N/A. This build was my inspiration to try this.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Interesting read as always.

Be interested in how that plenum goes.

My understanding is forced induction makes up for the lack of equal length runners in those

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Interesting read as always.

Be interested in how that plenum goes.

My understanding is forced induction makes up for the lack of equal length runners in those

Yes that’s what I thought too, it seems like this kind of intake setup would have little velocity at low to mid RPMS. On top of the bad low rpm drive ability provided by the new cam it might just be impossible to launch without dumping the clutch with this new intake

We shall see though. Hopefully it works out great.

 

[hazard]

Love your openmindness and willingness to experiment in ways most others would not. I agree. Why not try the intake just for “sh*its and giggles”, might find some new and interesting results.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Good progress on the new intake setup.

 

[gonzopancho]

Initially thought they were 35s.

They’re not even 33s!

My 16 inch alloy wheels weighs about: 14.33 lbs

The 30 inch Michelin road tire weights about: 28.6 lbs

Combined weight: 42.9 lbs per corner.

Also worth noting that I am running a lightened flywheel I am sure it frees up some power due to less peristatic loss since it is considerably lighter than the OEM flywheel, not sure by how much though.

What’s “peristatic loss”? Do you mean parasitic?

I am assuming that model land cruiser (your vehicle) has a part time transfer case, correct? meaning you will test it on the dyno on 2WD?

Yup.

I mean, I guess I could go find a 4wd dyno,…, but why? I don’t anticipate going WOT in 4hi or 4lo.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

It’s been a while.

Did not Dyno test with the new intake setup, plan to do so soon.

However from daily driving and playing around after the the new intake turbo style intake setup install I noticed the following:

1. The intake induction noise at WOT sounds completely different, sounds like a V8 cold air intake. Deeper and throatier. Only noticeable when the muffler valve is switched off, otherwise the exhaust takes over.

2. Power below 3000 RPM is noticeably lower.

3. Power continues building way after 5700 RPM which is where it was previously getting choked. I raised the RPM all the way to 7000 and it still goes strong, it keeps wanting fuel, and the manifold pressure does not drop off. So it indeed was an intake restriction.

Second damage report:

2 months ago, I bent one intake valve, something probably got into the scoop. That obligated me to not only change all the valves, but also all the pistons and the head itself

Build changes:

Compression: When I replaced the old head with the new one, I decided to install a thinner head gasket, a 1.2mm instead of a 2.0mm for added compression. Worth noting that the head was honed the same amount as the previous, to ensure compression is actually increased with the thinner gasket.

Displacement: Since I had to replace the pistons I decided to go for even larger ones, it was 102mm previously now the new pistons are 103mm. Bored the block to accommodate obviously.

Previous pistons were UEM ICOM flats, new ones are CP racing flats.

All else remained the same.

Next up is a custom 6-1 larger header and a 4 inch exhaust.

Broke it in a couple of days ago and did a quarter mile and 0-60 test, boy what a difference!

5.39 0-60!!!!! Naturally aspirated!!!

Overall I am very happy with this build, I have had a ton of fun so far, driving it around town and racing with friends, fuel economy is actually excellent surprisingly, drivability is decent if you get used to the jerkiness below 2000 RPM (found away around the jerkiness, kinda, by slipping the clutch). The part throttle torque is great, you can get up to speed fairly quickly without needing much throttle. The only really annoying thing is the smell of gasoline and the exhaust fumes. The

Dyno soon.

 

[cody c]

Wow, that does not seem anything like a land cruiser. It frickin launched!

 

[PIP]

That's pretty impressive. 13.89 1/4mi with a stickshift in a 5000 lb brick is not too shabby.