Would you explain further how to utilize a Unichip for folks with an HDFT? How does it work and what is required? What’re known benefits (real world examples with their effects) of using the Unichip on a mechanical FT in an 80 series? Very interesting opportunity.
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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Yeah I can try to. With Unichip things can get a little long winded so I do apologize for getting ahead of myself with it. But the possibilities of what it can do is only limited by the imagination of the guy behind the laptop.
So essentially the unichip is basically a signal modifier usually used on EFI engines. However it also has built in driver for running solenoids, stepper motors, injectors basically anything you could want to use on ANY type of engine.
As with all control units It wants to see Engine Speed (RPM). And a load axis of your choice (Throttle Position or Boost usually)
With that data being fed into the unichip you can then build 2D & 3D mapping to run what ever you choose to.
So lets say you Feed the tacho signal into the unichip and wire yourself up a 4 bar map sensor and plumb that into the manifold.
You can then have a 3D table for boost control with the unichip controlling the Mac valve/Boost solenoid. You can even do a PID Strategy with a target boost pressure table and have the unichip target a boost rather than running it in an open loop style with just a set duty cycle % at each RPM/TPS point.
A second output can be used to run the same type of solenoid leading into the boost compensator. Obviously with this method we cant increase the fueling over what it would ever be but we can certainly reduce it if we want to. So instead of reducing boost in the hope of cooling EGT's with the compensator taking the fuel back.
We could make the compensator take the fuel back while maintaining whatever boost pressure is required.
Even better than this is the fact that each table you build has 4 additional inputs that can act as individual compensation for that table.
You could have an EGT input. Coolant temp, Air Temp, turbo speed, vehicle speed literally anything you want that can be provided by a 0-5v sensor can be used.
So we could build a target boost and fuel table. Then lets say EGT starts to exceed 700deg. We can have it bleed fuel comp pressure off to bring that back to our maximum allowable of 650deg. These settings are all infinitely adjustable so we could give it a limit of 700 and target of 690 if we wanted and the unichip would just continually cycle the boost comp pressure to keep it in that window while under load.
Can do the same thing with air temp, but have it bring the boost back down if post-intercooler air temp starts to exceed 120deg Or activate a water spray for the intercooler at that point and if that doesnt drop it, then have the boost lowered.
Coolant temp gets to 100deg, back the fueling off to get that back down. Or we could even use that 100deg coolant temp to trigger an additional fan, Anything you can think of is possible.
You could setup over boost protection if a wastegate hose fails, it just kills all boost to the compensator.
That is barely scratching the surface of what you could do even on an old mechanical pump 80s Cruiser!
We're definitely on the same page. The roughest tool would be to just bleed some pressure to the boost compensator when boost is above a certain threshold and RPM's are in a given range. Then I wouldn't have to mess with a throttle position sensor.
But some kind of closed loop PID thing with a EGT sensor or even a wide band would be awesome.
How does the 1HDT generate it's tacho output? Crank sensor? Would the unichip be able to take that as the rpm input or do you think we'd need to add a trigger wheel or something like that?
I believe tach output is via the injection pump on these motors.
This is very interesting for those who want every little bit of customization and control (live tuning the pump).
I just don't see how converting the control to electronic can really hold up long term? is there an emergency way to quickly switch back to mechanical control while in the field? an FTE swap might be the easiest long term solution that has Toyota reliability all over it.
It's still a very cool idea and I'd love to see pictures of how it controls the pump from a servo or module aspect.
There's also the other other direction of just swapping the turbo for one that doesn't have so much EMP in higher RPM.
The unichip can accept any input trigger to convert it to rpm. So it honestly doesnt matter what the Vehicle uses for rpm. You can make it work with the unichip as long as there is a pattern there to work off.
You can remove the chip and fit a terminating plug which will revert everything back to zero electronic control. Would take all of 10 seconds to do this if there was an error.
There is plenty more ways of making the pump work in different ways. You could even put a light spring ontop of the compensator and use vacuum to pull the comp pin up. that way you could have full fuel at almost no boost pressure if you wanted it and use the vacuum to bring it back to the level you wanted it tuned to.
You can remove the chip and fit a terminating plug which will revert everything back to zero electronic control. Would take all of 10 seconds to do this if there was an error.
There is plenty more ways of making the pump work in different ways. You could even put a light spring ontop of the compensator and use vacuum to pull the comp pin up. that way you could have full fuel at almost no boost pressure if you wanted it and use the vacuum to bring it back to the level you wanted it tuned to.
Messing with a unichiip is going to cost me $500 ish and some time. Vs probably $15k for a FTE swap.
I'm very happy with the general drivability of my G-turbo, and honestly I still haven't seen any really concrete alternatives with lots of testing to back up the claims. I know the G-turbo isn't ideal but I am not interested in throwing another couple thousand at a different turbo that also may not work out for various reasons.
You've given me a ton of great info, and I would love to buy one of your pins and springs. I am going to play with this unichip idea, but it's going to have to sit on the back burner for about 6 months while I knock out some other projects.
This chat deserves its own thread.
If you go ahead, I hope you'll start a thread and share your progress, success, failure etc
I will absolutely make a thread when I get started on this. I'm currently doing a bunch of refreshing work, then I'm going to try and re-tune using a wideband, then I will go down this ECU rabbit hole.
Hey guys been watching various VE pump adjustment videos on youtube I see a lot of Cummins guys change the Governor Spring and boost compensator spring.
has anyone here changed out the governor spring and boost compensator spring? any noticed improvements? and where to get springs are they even available for our 1hd-t's?
has anyone here changed out the governor spring and boost compensator spring? any noticed improvements? and where to get springs are they even available for our 1hd-t's?
Boost Compensator Control Spring - Light Duty up to 12PSI
Custom components to tune boost-compensated diesel injection pumps. Fuel Compensator Pins, Control Spring, Shims, and Diaphragms.
www.tillix.com.au
This has been mentioned here before... and I think the vendor may even be a member.
Not sure if we've had any user experience reported back as yet, but it was on my list.
I think I’m a bit late to this party at 75 pages.
But 75 pages of experience haha
Anyone know someone that’s half decent that knows a fraction of what’s in this thread to help tune my 1hdft in Melbourne?
Also is the trundles boost comp cap worth the upgrade?
Or should I spend a bit more time and DIY?
Find a pin maybe from Tillix, a comp spring and maybe the boost cap and or shims?
Is that all I need for the shopping list for the following;
-Munro high flow GMT turbo (looking to run max 20psi to be safe)
- stock pump and injectors
- PDI front mount IC & PDI airbox
- undecided whether I go 4” snorkel I heard they make bugger all difference to the stock safari.
So anything else I should consider or any tuners local to melb?
Cheers
But 75 pages of experience haha
Anyone know someone that’s half decent that knows a fraction of what’s in this thread to help tune my 1hdft in Melbourne?
Also is the trundles boost comp cap worth the upgrade?
Or should I spend a bit more time and DIY?
Find a pin maybe from Tillix, a comp spring and maybe the boost cap and or shims?
Is that all I need for the shopping list for the following;
-Munro high flow GMT turbo (looking to run max 20psi to be safe)
- stock pump and injectors
- PDI front mount IC & PDI airbox
- undecided whether I go 4” snorkel I heard they make bugger all difference to the stock safari.
So anything else I should consider or any tuners local to melb?
Cheers
Your proposed setup (and location) are very similar to mine... minus the 'F' and the airbox/snorkel mods - the CT26 turbo intake necks down to less than 3" anyway, so other than getting rid of the flattenned airbox lid I'm not looking at intake mods beyond the current Safari until FMIC (tossing up between $1700 PDi and $400 DIY.)
I've got a Munroe hi-flo and intercooler waiting to go in, and then I'll evaluate need for pump/injector/anything else mods.
The closest I've found to a Land Cruiser guru in Melb is Peter from Central 4WD Centre in Cheltenham, who apparently spent some time at the factory in Japan putting the 80 series together. He is great to have a chat with, and his passion and enthusiasm is really infectious... but they are booked solid and utterly useless at responding to e-mail - you have to go in person to get anywhere. I can't comment on their work yet, I haven't got that far!
I've got a Munroe hi-flo and intercooler waiting to go in, and then I'll evaluate need for pump/injector/anything else mods.
The closest I've found to a Land Cruiser guru in Melb is Peter from Central 4WD Centre in Cheltenham, who apparently spent some time at the factory in Japan putting the 80 series together. He is great to have a chat with, and his passion and enthusiasm is really infectious... but they are booked solid and utterly useless at responding to e-mail - you have to go in person to get anywhere. I can't comment on their work yet, I haven't got that far!
I've got a Trundles boost cap and fuel pin but really got nothing to compare it to besides stock not sure if I will need the Tillix spring but the Trundles come with a spacer.
I will be adjusting fuel by using a PE Wideband O2 Controller Kit
I’m not sure I have a spare bung to do it myself… just the one for the EGT
I got myself a glowshift
Clamp-On Wideband Oxygen Sensor Bung Adapter
2-3/4"-3" Clamp-On Wideband Oxygen Sensor Bung Adapter
GlowShift 2-3/4" - 3" Clamp-On Wideband O2 Sensor Bung Adapters Give Drivers the Ability to Install a Wideband Oxygen Sensor to the Exhaust Without Welding.
www.glowshiftdirect.com
Handy!I got myself a glowshift
Clamp-On Wideband Oxygen Sensor Bung Adapter
2-3/4"-3" Clamp-On Wideband Oxygen Sensor Bung Adapter
GlowShift 2-3/4" - 3" Clamp-On Wideband O2 Sensor Bung Adapters Give Drivers the Ability to Install a Wideband Oxygen Sensor to the Exhaust Without Welding.
At that point I’d prob just weld a bung in
I’m now 50/50 to DIY Vs. Putting it on a dyno with a tuner.
Shouldn't need a bung for the EGT. Only useful location for the EGT is in the manifold pre turbo
In which case you’d want 6… which is ideal
I don’t see too much of a difference pre/post turbo with one sensor.
