Okie dream man cave! (5 Viewers)

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FWIW I just bought a Milwaukee M18 framing nailer, but haven't haven't had a chance to use it yet - will soon though. I went with Milwaukee because I already have a bunch of M18 tools and batteries. Will let you know how it does.
I started transition to Makita last year and hopes of transitioning away from Dewalt cause the batteries piss me off at time. But Dewalt does continue to have pretty impressive line of tool.

I’m hind sight I wish I would have gone with Milwaukee.
 
I started transition to Makita last year and hopes of transitioning away from Dewalt cause the batteries piss me off at time. But Dewalt does continue to have pretty impressive line of tool.

I’m hind sight I wish I would have gone with Milwaukee.

I have a Makita cordless drill that I really like (it was a gift), and a Makita corded angle grinder that has been great, but I made the decision to go down the Milwaukee road several years ago. At the time, they seemed to have a bigger selection of tools, and their batteries were well-reviewed. I've been happy with all the M18 stuff I have now, and the batteries do last a long time and charge quickly - but I still think that Makita makes quality stuff.
 
FWIW I just bought a Milwaukee M18 framing nailer, but haven't haven't had a chance to use it yet - will soon though. I went with Milwaukee because I already have a bunch of M18 tools and batteries. Will let you know how it does.
I've got both the Milwaukee M18 framing and finish nailers. A little heavy/cumbersome but they both work great. Pretty amazing how much punch they packed into a cordless framing nailer. I don't think you'll be disappointed.
 
Dewalt cause the batteries piss me off at time.

What issues are you having? My 20V batteries have been going strong for four years now.

I did just have to replace my two 60V batteries. All of a sudden they wouldn't hold a charge. They'd show "empty," put them on the charger, and they'd immediately show as fully charged. Contacted DeWalt about it, they asked for the serial numbers on them, and then sent me two brand new ones. They were under the three year warranty time period.

A little heavy/cumbersome but they both work great.

I have heard that the cordless versions are heavier than a pneumatic nailer. Obviously, the battery is a significant portion of that. If it becomes an issue, it may be worth using smaller batteries and cycling them out more often. I know the 60V batteries in a 20V tool last a long time, but that extra weight can make it not worth it at times.
 
What issues are you having? My 20V batteries have been going strong for four years now.

I did just have to replace my two 60V batteries. All of a sudden they wouldn't hold a charge. They'd show "empty," put them on the charger, and they'd immediately show as fully charged. Contacted DeWalt about it, they asked for the serial numbers on them, and then sent me two brand new ones. They were under the three year warranty time period.



I have heard that the cordless versions are heavier than a pneumatic nailer. Obviously, the battery is a significant portion of that. If it becomes an issue, it may be worth using smaller batteries and cycling them out more often. I know the 60V batteries in a 20V tool last a long time, but that extra weight can make it not worth it at times.
It was more of the switch from 18V to 20V after I had invested some funds in a 18V world. Then having an 18V battery die along with some 20V batteries just pissed me off. I'm over it and think the 20V batteries have gotten better for sure but I hate the prospect of using my heavy 18V impact for a boat anchor in the future.

My Makita drill and small driver along with the multitool sure do well on their batteries, but the line of possibilities sure isn't what Dewalt offers.
 
Little dirt work today but trucking company only able to get me two loads of #3 gravel which I’ll put 2-3 inches of road base on top of it.

Moved more dirt than I thought i would but was able to put it around the other edges.

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Guys doing the foam insulation on the parents house today and will do my office were given lock combo I use for contractors. While working 45 miles away they texted me this morning asking when I was going to be around.

They actually locked themselves inside the farm when they locked my key lock through the chain and not the combo lock.

Unbelievable what people do these days.
 
Anyone have any experience building a heavy duty rack to support on walls in lean to on outside of pole barn. I need to protect some leftover roofing for house and store the wood from the old house I want to salvage the exterior to use other places in shop and our house when it’s built.

I’ve got plenty of of left over wood and can come up with simple brace out of 2x4’s with diagonal brace. My plan is to secure to the original poles of the barn.

Hopefully someone with some skills far better than mine have gone down this road.

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Are you saying build a storage rack that also supports the pole barn? Or storage rack that is supported off the pole barn? Your wording is a bit unclear.

I found someone on the local craigslist who needed to have pallet racking gone quickly from a rental space. It made a cheap and overkill sturdy storage solution.
 
Are you saying build a storage rack that also supports the pole barn? Or storage rack that is supported off the pole barn? Your wording is a bit unclear.

I found someone on the local craigslist who needed to have pallet racking gone quickly from a rental space. It made a cheap and overkill sturdy storage solution.
Sorry, I am looking to make or buy some racks to mount to the poles of the pole barn. They would serve to store the wood I remove off the old house.

I need to hang them off the ground so I can continue to use the lower space for equipment like my sprayer and the small tractor.
 
You need a cantilevered rack system. They come as cheap or as expensive as you want. Here is just one example:


If you don't go with a steel system then you will have to angle brace the standout which takes up a lot of storage space.
 
My pallet rack is either 8' or 9' wide and 48" deep, but you can get up to 12' wide and down to 36" deep. So you can still put a bunch of stuff on the ground under them - just put the first cross beam at whatever height you need to be able to get under there. I have one car sitting under one section.

I also have material storage like WarDamnEagle posted. Just make sure that what you're mounting it to can support the load you're putting on it. I saw someone use that for their steel storage and pull a wall down... :oops: They had put up the storage rack floor to ceiling along a twenty foot wall and loaded up every shelf.

BTW, that HD price is pretty high. Here is basically the same thing at Amazon for half that price: https://a.co/d/7QsbHHg

Unfortunately, last month they just had it down below $20 a section:
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You need a cantilevered rack system. They come as cheap or as expensive as you want. Here is just one example:


If you don't go with a steel system then you will have to angle brace the standout which takes up a lot of storage space.
I actually went to Lowes looking for comparable rack like this than ended up buying the same set up through Amazon. After taking it out of the box I would be very surprised to see how much it can actually handle. Pictures definitely make it look more capable than what I saw after removing from the box.
 
I actually went to Lowes looking for comparable rack like this than ended up buying the same set up through Amazon. After taking it out of the box I would be very surprised to see how much it can actually handle. Pictures definitely make it look more capable than what I saw after removing from the box.
Yes you probably get what you pay for, especially with steel. I could have linked one of the $1000+ units. :p

Seriously though, probably better safe than sorry and Amazon has free returns......
 
Yes you probably get what you pay for, especially with steel. I could have linked one of the $1000+ units. :p

Seriously though, probably better safe than sorry and Amazon has free returns......
Walked in barn couple days ago and looked at the rack I purchased online. Pictures definitely make it look more than it is.

It’s bring to the memory of Spinal Tap movie where they had stonehenge built for show and end results were like a foot tall!!
 
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Well not as we planned but with trip to Colorado planned for next week with car hauler to load stuff I had to empty it for trip.

First cruiser is in the barn!!!

It’s amazing how possibly wrong things can go with you wife sitting on a bucket steering a powerless, brake less Landcruiser 10’ out of a car hauler while I pushed it out.

Thankfully her inability to see how close she steered the front bumper into the side of the car hauler has allowed us to have a wonderful rest of the day.

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Today gonna be over 90 and humid! Today I’m cleaning out the shop, airing out some fords and hopefully motivate myself to do some wiring.

Mom and dads cabinets which I’ve had to use shop to store should be moved next week so I can get back to installing some lights.

Ole blue our bj45 has sadly been outside for awhile due to some battery issues and lack of space. Tested the stupid blue to Optima batteries today and one was bad so two new batteries installed. Amazingly she fired right up and now gets a spot in her shop. I drove to Denver Wednesday and picked up her rebuilt 3B which will go in hopefully later this summer. I can also trailer her to Tulsa and get new windshield placed then we will drive her around.

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@greenbeast was the 3B an extra motor that was re-built? And you will now have another 3B?
 
The 3B was motor I ran across by chance in Steamboat. The POs wife kept complaining about it leaking oil and the loudness of the engine so guy did cummins swap (ha). Guess more money then he knows what to do with it.

I’m actually intending on crating what I take out of the troopy and keeping it for parts. Not sure I would have gone down rebuild path had I been aware of the difficulty obtaining parts. With Covid just peaking when I dropped it off in Denver it was a mess finding parts. The rebuilt 3B had its own issues for sure. Cams are damn near impossible to find. His precombustion chambers were all cracked, those were a booger to find and I can’t recall what country we even found them. Mud folks were super helpful trying to correct what the supposed high end restoration shop in the northeast built him.

I count myself lucky to have it and I’m sure it will give us many miles. However, if I did it again I’d go with different swap and probably use a newer diesel engine.

I paid $3000 for the engine and H55 with appropriate top and have another $8000 in having the engine rebuilt and tranny inspected and repaired with Valley Hybrids. This being 24V rig I’ve tried to secure extra everything like starter, alternator and anything electronic.

Sorry wish I could help more, if remote chance you think I can help reach out!
 

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