What are you working on? (7 Viewers)

[shmukster]

Been mildly busy, got the hardtop and doors on the 40 for the winter. Thought maybe I'd just let her sit in the garage without a top for the cold season but I like when that big fiberglass top and all the other parts are out of the top of my garage!!!!!

Also had an interesting problem crop up. While driving the 60 the other day the speedometer stopped working. No speed indication and the miles stopped rolling up. Pulled the cluster out and looked at the end of the cable housing and there was no cable in it!!! Ordered a new assembly from Keppy Toyota had it on two days. When i got to pulled the old assembly out, a short piece of the speedo end of the cable about three inches long fell to the floor. I've never seen a cable make a clean break like this one did. Put the new assembly in and she's back in operation.

 

[FuglyYota]

Shelving for guest room / kids Lego room. We have a big Lego table, but my 9 year old already has a small city built on it and needs more room still. Plus the tiny desk/bookshelf wasn’t cutting it. Before, during, current. Still needs final sanding and paint.

 

[plfj40]

Redoing my old 40 cage to fit the new 40

 

[plfj40]

Trying to make this fat ass look good with extended metal tech cage

 

[FuglyYota]

Done!

 

[fireball]

Trying to make this fat ass look good with extended metal tech cage

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Tires are too small

 

[plfj40]

Tires are too small

hmmm, I go those 39s on my buggy still.

 

[brian]

Another steam engine crown sheet replacement.

 

[FuglyYota]

After doing the normal oil change on the DD (‘05 Saab 9-5), went after the headlights. You can’t get them cheap, they’re like $250 a side for good ones. So picked up the 3M polishing kit for $30 and got to it. Results below. I wouldn’t say they look brand new, but made a massive difference.

 

[FuglyYota]

Next was adding an electric fan to the 40. I’ve had it forever, and after overheating at AOAA last summer it needed something. The little flex fan just doesn’t move enough air, and with how the engine is placed vs the radiator I have, a shroud would be a PIA. Also when the rig is moving, things work fine. But sitting idling, or slow off road there’s just not enough airflow through the rad. There’s also too much heat building in the engine bay, and intake air temps when crawling get high. That’s got a lot to do with the un-coated fenderwell headers and needs a cold air intake to solve. That’s for another day.

So fan is on and fits as a pusher, with the mechanical fan back there as the primary. It fits, barely. Electric will be set up with a thermostatic switch, on at 185 and off at 170. I really wish the engine was another inch or two farther back, but that’s also not something that’s getting changed anytime soon.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

After doing the normal oil change on the DD (‘05 Saab 9-5), went after the headlights. You can’t get them cheap, they’re like $250 a side for good ones. So picked up the 3M polishing kit for $30 and got to it. Results below. I wouldn’t say they look brand new, but made a massive difference.

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Does the 3M kit come with any type of coating to keep the plastic from oxidizing again? Just curious, I did a cheap buff and polish on my Mazda a couple years ago and I feel like they got foggy and yellow again pretty quickly. Wondering if there’s any way to prevent it.

 

[FuglyYota]

Does the 3M kit come with any type of coating to keep the plastic from oxidizing again? Just curious, I did a cheap buff and polish on my Mazda a couple years ago and I feel like they got foggy and yellow again pretty quickly. Wondering if there’s any way to prevent it.

No but it does say there is a 3M wax you can buy to protect them. I have some standard meguiars wax I may try……

 

[brian]

Crashed oven in la.

 

[Pacer]

Crashed oven in la.

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How does one crash an oven?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

How does one crash an oven?

This was my first question as well, but since nobody else asked it, I assumed everyone else knew what the heck was going on there...

 

[brian]

How does one crash an oven?

there are several ways to go about it, this one involved a pan jam and a safe load limit set too high.
for one reason or another a bunch of pans and lids ended off the grids, which up set a grid, which then started plowing burners and colorators like it was stacy's mom. it also mangled about dozen grids, but the bakery mechs took care of them....had the safe load caught it only one or two burners would have been smoked....the drive amps peaked at 9.4, safe load was set at almost 11. the gear reduction on these is so low, they could turn themselves inside out then reverse the rotation of the earth if you let them.

 

[FuglyYota]

Went for ice cream last weekend in the 40. Driveshaft got balanced and seems much better, 65 is possible, maybe more as I ran out of room above that. Had 2 issues though.

1) Kids can’t buckle the rear belt, it’s an old Simpson cam lock 4 point harness with a center buckle. You have to get all the belts in and then drop the lever, it’s hard for adults and not safe for the kiddos.

2) At some cruise speeds, the aero around the rig sucks the side exhaust into the cabin. Even with no doors and only a bikini top. It’s not terrible, but annoying and again not a good thing with kids in the back seats.

#1 is easy to fix, I ordered new belts that I think are meant for SXS’s but will be fine for the rear bench seat. They buckle just like a car seat does, so perfect for the 9 and 5 year olds and their friends.

#2 opens another can of worms. The fenderwell headers make it next to impossible to get the exhaust out the back. So they’re getting changed out. Between the steering, engine mounts and frame, it’s a tight fit. Plus I have heat issues in the engine bay, so I decided to go ceramic coated rams horns from speedway.

But before running new exhaust, I need to deal with the underbelly. The cases are too low and hang down more than I’d like. I’ve wanted to raise them for a while, so let’s do that now and plan exhaust room in. So out came the interior and off came the trans tunnel and skid plates. I have a 203 range box, one off adapter to a split case, all behind a SM465. After eyeballing the clearances, gas tank, and bunch of other stuff, I think first attempt will be to leave engine mounts where they are, and pull the drive train 3/4” to the drivers side via modifying the crossmember. That should let the back end of the cases come up at leas an inch, hopefully more. That, plus a better crossmember should let the lowest point under the belly come up 2+ inches, which is huge. It’s going to mean completely reworking the trans tunnel cover, but I expected that. I may not get a flat belly under the drop for the split case, but I’d like to under the rest of rig and just have the skid plate protect the drop. Will see how far I get next weekend.

 

[Pacer]

Went for ice cream last weekend in the 40. Driveshaft got balanced and seems much better, 65 is possible, maybe more as I ran out of room above that. Had 2 issues though.

1) Kids can’t buckle the rear belt, it’s an old Simpson cam lock 4 point harness with a center buckle. You have to get all the belts in and then drop the lever, it’s hard for adults and not safe for the kiddos.

2) At some cruise speeds, the aero around the rig sucks the side exhaust into the cabin. Even with no doors and only a bikini top. It’s not terrible, but annoying and again not a good thing with kids in the back seats.

#1 is easy to fix, I ordered new belts that I think are meant for SXS’s but will be fine for the rear bench seat. They buckle just like a car seat does, so perfect for the 9 and 5 year olds and their friends.

#2 opens another can of worms. The fenderwell headers make it next to impossible to get the exhaust out the back. So they’re getting changed out. Between the steering, engine mounts and frame, it’s a tight fit. Plus I have heat issues in the engine bay, so I decided to go ceramic coated rams horns from speedway.

But before running new exhaust, I need to deal with the underbelly. The cases are too low and hang down more than I’d like. I’ve wanted to raise them for a while, so let’s do that now and plan exhaust room in. So out came the interior and off came the trans tunnel and skid plates. I have a 203 range box, one off adapter to a split case, all behind a SM465. After eyeballing the clearances, gas tank, and bunch of other stuff, I think first attempt will be to leave engine mounts where they are, and pull the drive train 3/4” to the drivers side via modifying the crossmember. That should let the back end of the cases come up at leas an inch, hopefully more. That, plus a better crossmember should let the lowest point under the belly come up 2+ inches, which is huge. It’s going to mean completely reworking the trans tunnel cover, but I expected that. I may not get a flat belly under the drop for the split case, but I’d like to under the rest of rig and just have the skid plate protect the drop. Will see how far I get next weekend.

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That thing has a lot of wheelbase!

 

[FuglyYota]

That thing has a lot of wheelbase!

102” overall - 8” in the front, 4” in the rear. My last rig had 106, then 108, then ended at 110” and was great on climbs & downhill. I knew I wanted more than the stock 90”, and that’s what I came up with. Sometimes I wish it didn’t look so goofy in the front with the stretch, but I wouldn’t give it up. Once I eventually go 37’s hope it “evens” the look out.

 

[shmukster]

What is your main transfer case?????