What's the need for head studs?
1FZ-FE ARP Head Studs Installed with Part# (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter guzzla
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Superior clamping force, easier to torque properly without damaging something, reusable and waaay cheaper (even at ARP prices).
Actually, that could be more clear.
Do you mean 6mm longer overall, which might and might not mean longer threaded sections (likely a maximum of 3mm on each end)?
Or 6mm longer at EACH threaded end, meaning 12mm longer overall, and all of it threaded.
Or 6mm longer in the midddle, with the threaded sections remaining unchanged.
OR, do you mean you don’t really care about any of that, as long as the damned things are 6 (or maybe 12) mm longer?
Technically, there at least five and maybe six different ways to read what you wrote, all-caps notwithstanding.
I do admire your work (really), but your language lacks precision.
Last edited:
You do not need to bottom out the stud to get the max strength in this application. The Supra studs will be fine for this joint like has been mentioned earlier in the thread some people do drop a small ball bearing in the hole to bottom the stud on.
There are a lot of factors to this but the biggest one is that you are using 200,000psi bolts into Cast Iron. Cast Iron with hole sizes 1/4" - 5/8" reaches max pullout force in 1.4x the diameter of the fastener. It is an 11mm fastener so as long as it is threaded 15.4mm into the block going deeper isn't really going to give you anything. Best thing you can do is ensure the threads on the fasteners and head are in very good shape and a tight match.
If you really think you need more clamping force you can have the block and head drilled and tapped to 1/2" but it is not necessary.
Some reading on the last 2 pages here for those interested.
There are a lot of factors to this but the biggest one is that you are using 200,000psi bolts into Cast Iron. Cast Iron with hole sizes 1/4" - 5/8" reaches max pullout force in 1.4x the diameter of the fastener. It is an 11mm fastener so as long as it is threaded 15.4mm into the block going deeper isn't really going to give you anything. Best thing you can do is ensure the threads on the fasteners and head are in very good shape and a tight match.
If you really think you need more clamping force you can have the block and head drilled and tapped to 1/2" but it is not necessary.
Some reading on the last 2 pages here for those interested.
Last edited:
Thanks for the info! Ideally the things are idiot-proof and do bottom out, so it’s not too challenging for future generations who thought everything would be electric or we’d have teleporters by then—but you’re right of course; they don’t HAVE to bottom out.
The overall length of the stud needs to be 6mm longer. The threaded sections are fine as they are.
Got it and passed along, thanks!
MauiUZJ
Gotta have duct tape...
Interested in this thread. Definitely would upgrade to ARO fasteners if I ever end up doing a head gasket.
Ideally they should measure a new one and a stretched one. They are plastic region after all.
I think they just want to verify thread pitch and washer size. We might be getting close to a dedicated kit for our engines.
Would there happen to be an update ? Im in the market for such atm.
Spoolimports in Australia has an ARP 1FZ-FE Head stud kit on their website:
Did u see my post above?
Yeah I took a look; thanks for the link! But they have no information on that page (probably so you can't compare prices). Could be a Supra set for all we know, there's no such P/N on ARP's site, these cost 'more' than head bolts, and ARP tells me they have no FZ set. So I'll keep on my present path, see where that leads, and report back...
Waiting! I'm building a FZ for my FJ40. I used ARP on my old Arctic Cat. They didn't make a set to my specs, so I called them. The guy said they had a set of custom studs they had made for someone that they returned unused. They were for another vehicle and were the exact specs I requested. Got them for $60. I kept blowing the factory head gaskets for some reason - ARP studs ended that problem. I think the Arctic bolts stretched over time under load/
I'd like to have the right length. I agree with the post about maximum strength in the block being reached and the other one about a ball bearing in the bottom. Also make sure and use their specific lube.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
- Messages
- 11,031
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Done about a dozen rebuilds now with the Opel ARPs, no worries.
Cheers
Cheers
Which Opel kit? Are they the correct length, longer than the Supra kit?
