Crank pully holder options? (1 Viewer)

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We have a home made tool we can use but....

A generic harmonic balancer holding tool from Napa works just fine too. Used it a dozen times no problems.

Just attach it to the HB with the right grade bolts.

As a shop, I would never suggest someone use the starter method. Never done that myself either and seems ganky to me, at the least.

You can also rent the torque wrench to install it correctly if you don’t have one.

Cheers
 
We have a home made tool we can use but....

A generic harmonic balancer holding tool from Napa works just fine too. Used it a dozen times no problems.

Just attach it to the HB with the right grade bolts.

As a shop, I would never suggest someone use the starter method. Never done that myself either and seems ganky to me, at the least.

You can also rent the torque wrench to install it correctly if you don’t have one.

Cheers
Probably bumped 30 crank bolts

Place the breaker bar with socket on the bolt with a 1” gap between the bar and the underside of the passenger frame rail. Quick flip of the ignition key and the bolts free. Pretty melodramatic.
 
yep starter with a breaker bar on the frame rail works every time

socket on the bolt through the inspection plate works well too I've done both
 
All of you guys using the starter to remove the bolt.....what are you using to HOLD the HB when torquing the nut back to 304 lb. ft. ?
 
This is mine

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M8x1.25 the highest grade the hardware store has.

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That’s what is use to fix head gaskets! 😂

I was using it as a counter balance my engine stand is cheep harbor freight and has a lot of play the intake makes it lean so I was using the saw to keep it stable.
 
That’s what is use to fix head gaskets! 😂

I was using it as a counter balance my engine stand is cheep harbor freight and has a lot of play the intake makes it lean so I was using the saw to keep it stable.
hehee... i goootcha . whatever works.
thanks again for the info
 
Here is my setup

I tried a brand new Milwaukee impact and it didn’t budge the crank bolt.

Breaker bars…. No bueno.

Good ole, “Starter Bump Start Method”… yea didnt happen!

Torque multiplier, it was butter just spun off gentle and easy (very gingerly).

People don’t want to spend money on the torque multiplier but the TM replaces that $239 4’ breaker bar (if u can find one) and $369 350ftp torque wrench (for re installing). The TM process was gentle, I didn’t have to worry about busting my face or a fender. Looking back at my online Toyota service records, even the local dealer (capital Toyota) couldn’t remove the crank bolt. It took me around 800ft pounds to break mine free.
For the crank pulley holder, definitely get one with an arm to brace against the frame. Their is a guy who sells the armless holder on MUD who states you don’t need a brace /arm (thier is a thread on the subject). True you don’t need it, What’s even more true is it makes the job way….. way…. easier and it’s a 1 man job with the brace/arm/“counter rotation device”. I’m guessing he didn’t want to deal with the additional shipping charges etc. if you were closer to San Jose I would happily come help you. If your willing to drive down to San Jose South I can loan you my setup for a deposit fee, you can get you money back when you return the items. Or I can measure the crank pulley holder dimension and you can find a local laser cutting shop who can make one for you.

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Here is my setup

I tried a brand new Milwaukee impact and it didn’t budge the crank bolt.

Breaker bars…. No bueno.

Good ole, “Starter Bump Start Method”… yea didnt happen!

Torque multiplier, it was butter just spun off gentle and easy (very gingerly).

People don’t want to spend money on the torque multiplier but the TM replaces that $239 4’ breaker bar (if u can find one) and $369 350ftp torque wrench (for re installing). The TM process was gentle, I didn’t have to worry about busting my face or a fender. Looking back at my online Toyota service records, even the local dealer (capital Toyota) couldn’t remove the crank bolt. It took me around 800ft pounds to break mine free.
For the crank pulley holder, definitely get one with an arm to brace against the frame. Their is a guy who sells the armless holder on MUD who states you don’t need a brace /arm (thier is a thread on the subject). True you don’t need it, What’s even more true is it makes the job way….. way…. easier and it’s a 1 man job with the brace/arm/“counter rotation device”. I’m guessing he didn’t want to deal with the additional shipping charges etc. if you were closer to San Jose I would happily come help you. If your willing to drive down to San Jose South I can loan you my setup for a deposit fee, you can get you money back when you return the items. Or I can measure the crank pulley holder dimension and you can find a local laser cutting shop who can make one for you.

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oh i really like the idea of that!!
 
yep starter with a breaker bar on the frame rail works every time

socket on the bolt through the inspection plate works well too I've done both

14mm deep impact socket on a flywheel bolt worked like a charm!
 

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