georgebj60
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Not a great picture, but the best I have at the moment...
Two 62s Become One - Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter diesellibrarian
- Start date
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well, that's considerably fancier than i envisioned. how's that bad boy go in there? it'd be appreciated if some one could post up a pic of that in place.
Well done @diesellibrarian - thanks for the help on my truck.
diesellibrarian
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- Thread starter
- #144
Cheers! Glad it was of some use!
diesellibrarian
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- Thread starter
- #145
Slowly working on getting the bodywork done so that I can get this thing in primer. Thankfully this is a dry climate, so flash rust isn't really a problem, but right now I have a lot of bare metal that's exposed to the elements, so I need to get on that.
One of the jobs I've been putting off is the drip rail re-seal. There are some pretty good threads on this elsewhere on Mud, so at least I went in prepared. Still learned a few things, though, and the first thing was: drip rail sealant ain't cheap. Especially the 3M stuff. Since money isn't exactly growing on trees these days, I went with the Evercoat product, which at half the price of 3M was still $100/tube. I thought I might need more than one tube, but at the end of the day one tube proved to be more than enough.
Anyway, I had a suspicion that my drip rails were leaking in a couple of spots, so I was afraid of what I might find underneath. You can see in this pic that it's dry and cracked all the way along. The danger is that water seeps in and gets under the roof panel welds and drips down the roof pillars and rusts the truck from the inside out.
This is the type of rust that can develop invisibly if the sealer has failed:
I removed as much of the corrosion as I could, and then dribbled some POR-15 in the areas where there was visible rust, hoping that it would make its way into the joint, preventing further rusting.
On the whole, though, the gutters were pretty, pretttttaaaay clean:
And here's a shot of the driver's side drip rail with the fresh sealer:
Overall, the process went quite smoothly. I'm guessing it took about 3 hours from start to finish, including wire-wheeling the old sealer out. I burned through a wire wheel in the process - that factory sealer is designed to stay put!
Other tips if you decide to do this:
- Work in relatively short sections (maybe 18" or so), as the sealer starts to set up fairly quickly. The sealer does self-level, but not as readily as I expected, so I ended up using a gloved finger to smooth it out before moving on to the next section.
- mask carefully. Masking is critical because no matter how careful you are, this crap gets everywhere.
- remove the masking tape before the sealer sets up, otherwise it is there forever, or you will ruin your newly-applied seal cutting out the tape that's caught behind it.
- other threads mention priming the gutter before sealing, but the product I used said that it bonds to bare metal and has rust-inhibiting additives, so I did not prime the gutters before sealing. It's pretty clear that the factory sealer was applied to bare metal, so that's what I did too.
This is the product I used, for future reference:
I now have both fenders off and have started sanding the body in preparation for primer and sealer.
One of the jobs I've been putting off is the drip rail re-seal. There are some pretty good threads on this elsewhere on Mud, so at least I went in prepared. Still learned a few things, though, and the first thing was: drip rail sealant ain't cheap. Especially the 3M stuff. Since money isn't exactly growing on trees these days, I went with the Evercoat product, which at half the price of 3M was still $100/tube. I thought I might need more than one tube, but at the end of the day one tube proved to be more than enough.
Anyway, I had a suspicion that my drip rails were leaking in a couple of spots, so I was afraid of what I might find underneath. You can see in this pic that it's dry and cracked all the way along. The danger is that water seeps in and gets under the roof panel welds and drips down the roof pillars and rusts the truck from the inside out.
This is the type of rust that can develop invisibly if the sealer has failed:
I removed as much of the corrosion as I could, and then dribbled some POR-15 in the areas where there was visible rust, hoping that it would make its way into the joint, preventing further rusting.
On the whole, though, the gutters were pretty, pretttttaaaay clean:
And here's a shot of the driver's side drip rail with the fresh sealer:
Overall, the process went quite smoothly. I'm guessing it took about 3 hours from start to finish, including wire-wheeling the old sealer out. I burned through a wire wheel in the process - that factory sealer is designed to stay put!
Other tips if you decide to do this:
- Work in relatively short sections (maybe 18" or so), as the sealer starts to set up fairly quickly. The sealer does self-level, but not as readily as I expected, so I ended up using a gloved finger to smooth it out before moving on to the next section.
- mask carefully. Masking is critical because no matter how careful you are, this crap gets everywhere.
- remove the masking tape before the sealer sets up, otherwise it is there forever, or you will ruin your newly-applied seal cutting out the tape that's caught behind it.
- other threads mention priming the gutter before sealing, but the product I used said that it bonds to bare metal and has rust-inhibiting additives, so I did not prime the gutters before sealing. It's pretty clear that the factory sealer was applied to bare metal, so that's what I did too.
This is the product I used, for future reference:
I now have both fenders off and have started sanding the body in preparation for primer and sealer.
georgebj60
SILVER Star
Ask and you shall receive....here's a photo of that shield in place...looking straight up from below.
diesellibrarian
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- Thread starter
- #147
you the man @georgebj60 ! yup, like i said earlier, that pc has been awol since before i bought mine. now with the rocker chop done i'll have redneckineer it 
thanks again guys
thanks again guysAbout halfway through your build thread I realized I have been following your build on Instagram, I'm the one that posted asking about what welder you were using. I have an 89 Fj62 that I'm about to dive into a fairly extensive resto-mod. I've been a little intimidated to tackle my body rust but after going through your build I've been inspired. I've only done limited stick welding, no mig or body work but I'm eager to learn. My body rust isn't nearly as bad as yours, and after seeing what you accomplished, I'm more confident that I can handle my problem areas.
I'm in the process of getting my garage all set up and organized, and acquiring a few tools that I lack. I think I'm going to hold off on getting a welder for a little while and take care of disassembly, converting/painting surface rust on the frame, axles, and other components then step up to the body repairs. I just wanted to say thanks for documenting everything you've done, it really has motivated me to take on my project.
I'm in the process of getting my garage all set up and organized, and acquiring a few tools that I lack. I think I'm going to hold off on getting a welder for a little while and take care of disassembly, converting/painting surface rust on the frame, axles, and other components then step up to the body repairs. I just wanted to say thanks for documenting everything you've done, it really has motivated me to take on my project.
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #150
Made some pretty good progress over the weekend. My goal was to get the jambs painted, because all kind of things hinge on that task. With the jambs done, I can reinstall the doors, get the interior trim put back place, etc. Right now the shop is cluttered with doors and fenders, etc., so getting that stuff back on the truck will create all kinds of space.
As always with painting, the bulk of the time goes into the prep work. Here's the truck all masked and ready for etching primer on the exposed metal bits:
Etching primer and some fresh seam sealer around the rear hatch:
I prepped areas to be painted by buffing with a red scotchbrite pad, followed by wax and grease remover. Also tried to feather out any paint chips, etc. Then I laid down the sealer/filler:
With the sealer flashed off, I moved to the topcoat. The jambs got two coats of beige:
I'm a total novice painter, but I'm pretty happy with how things turned out! After letting the paint dry, I installed the fenders and started on the doors. I've already started sanding the exterior in preparation for painting the body. Not sure when that will happen - it will probably be the last thing I do on this truck. So once it's all back together, I'll be back on the mechanical end of things. I have a new master cylinder to install. I'm also going to drop the tranny pan and adjust the kickdown cable and get the aux trans cooler plumbed in. Bit by bit, we're getting there!
As always with painting, the bulk of the time goes into the prep work. Here's the truck all masked and ready for etching primer on the exposed metal bits:
Etching primer and some fresh seam sealer around the rear hatch:
I prepped areas to be painted by buffing with a red scotchbrite pad, followed by wax and grease remover. Also tried to feather out any paint chips, etc. Then I laid down the sealer/filler:
With the sealer flashed off, I moved to the topcoat. The jambs got two coats of beige:
I'm a total novice painter, but I'm pretty happy with how things turned out! After letting the paint dry, I installed the fenders and started on the doors. I've already started sanding the exterior in preparation for painting the body. Not sure when that will happen - it will probably be the last thing I do on this truck. So once it's all back together, I'll be back on the mechanical end of things. I have a new master cylinder to install. I'm also going to drop the tranny pan and adjust the kickdown cable and get the aux trans cooler plumbed in. Bit by bit, we're getting there!
Solid work. I’ll be garage painted mine as well. I plan on a color change to white or cement gray. Haven’t really zeroed in on my color just yet.
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #152
For me, the choice was easy. I always wanted a beige 60.
This isn't a concours show car, so a garage paint job is fine by me. My total investment in paint and sprayer is under $500 (+ who knows how many hours of sanding), which is a tenth of the price of even a mediocre respray at a local paint shop. Plus...it's kind of fun!
Agreed. I am meticulous enough that it will be acceptable. I think you are too. I was quoted 40k for bodywork and got motivated to do it myself.
buzzed out on paint fumes again eh?
hell, the way that looks i might almost fly you to ontario so you can paint mine
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #155
buzzed out on paint fumes again eh?
Hey - then I could hand-deliver that filler neck, haha.
fawk, i can't wait that long for it
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #157
Been picking away at little things on the 62. It's exciting to see it come together. I love watching the pile of parts shrink as they each find their way onto the truck. Stuff I've completed over the past week or so:
Anyway, I sanded the whole roof, and while it's in great shape overall, there is some rust starting under a couple of the rack towers.
This is the worst of the rust (below). It looks like it might have been "repaired" at some point in the past. My tentative plan for dealing with this is to grind off as much of the rust as possible, put a rust converter on it, and then fill the pits and screw holes with glass filler. I know it's a shortcut repair, but as I mentioned I don't want to drop the headliner at this time. If (when) the rust returns in the future, I'll address it properly by cutting out the rust and welding in new metal. I'll also make sure to have a new headliner on hand.
Anyway, that's were we're at. Getting closer all the time!!
- Doors installed, including seals and wiring harnesses
- All engine bay vacuum lines replaced with silicone lines from City Racer
- Exhaust heat shields reinstalled under the driver's side floor pans
- All panels sanded in prep for paint
- Engine accessories reinstalled (air box, etc.)
Anyway, I sanded the whole roof, and while it's in great shape overall, there is some rust starting under a couple of the rack towers.
This is the worst of the rust (below). It looks like it might have been "repaired" at some point in the past. My tentative plan for dealing with this is to grind off as much of the rust as possible, put a rust converter on it, and then fill the pits and screw holes with glass filler. I know it's a shortcut repair, but as I mentioned I don't want to drop the headliner at this time. If (when) the rust returns in the future, I'll address it properly by cutting out the rust and welding in new metal. I'll also make sure to have a new headliner on hand.
Anyway, that's were we're at. Getting closer all the time!!
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #158
Checked a bunch of items off the "to do" list over the weekend.
The first thing was to drain the ATF and drop the transmission oil pan. Since I've never driven this rig, I have no idea of the condition of the A440F that's in it. One thing I do know, however, was that it was massively overfull. There was so much ATF in it, in fact, that it was leaking from the pan gasket. There should be about 5L sitting in the pan, but I drained about 8L. Anyway, looking at the contents of the pan, there's no evidence of traumatic transmission failure - just old, dirty ATF and a small amount of metal filings on the magnets:
While I was in there, I decided to drop the oil strainer and give it a good cleaning as well. Here it is bolted back into place:
Three different bolts are used on the strainer, so you have to keep track of the placement of the bolts.
And here's the pan all cleaned up, and the outside painted. For some reason Toyota didn't paint this part. Maybe it was galvanized or something? Not sure. Mine was starting to show signs of rust, though, so I figured a coat of Rustoleum couldn't hurt:
All cleaned up and ready to reinstall, with magnets placed per FSM specification:
Reinstalled using an OEM cork gasket, and tightened to 61 in-lbs per the FSM. Here's the part number for the gasket:
The first thing was to drain the ATF and drop the transmission oil pan. Since I've never driven this rig, I have no idea of the condition of the A440F that's in it. One thing I do know, however, was that it was massively overfull. There was so much ATF in it, in fact, that it was leaking from the pan gasket. There should be about 5L sitting in the pan, but I drained about 8L. Anyway, looking at the contents of the pan, there's no evidence of traumatic transmission failure - just old, dirty ATF and a small amount of metal filings on the magnets:
While I was in there, I decided to drop the oil strainer and give it a good cleaning as well. Here it is bolted back into place:
Three different bolts are used on the strainer, so you have to keep track of the placement of the bolts.
And here's the pan all cleaned up, and the outside painted. For some reason Toyota didn't paint this part. Maybe it was galvanized or something? Not sure. Mine was starting to show signs of rust, though, so I figured a coat of Rustoleum couldn't hurt:
All cleaned up and ready to reinstall, with magnets placed per FSM specification:
Reinstalled using an OEM cork gasket, and tightened to 61 in-lbs per the FSM. Here's the part number for the gasket:
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #159
Since I was working on the transmission, I decided that this would be a good time to finally plumb in the external transmission cooler that I'd installed so long ago. The cooler itself is from a Chevy pickup. It's a junkyard part, so I hope it doesn't leak! For $15 it seemed worth the risk, though.
Anyway, I installed the cooler lines per this thread by @thecadefire, and it really is as easy as it looks.
Here's the junkyard cooler mounted in place using brackets I made from 18ga steel. I've deleted my A/C system so I have all kinds of room to mount the cooler:
The first step was to remove the short section of cooler hose that runs from the passenger side of the rad to the hard return line. Then I cut off the hose crimps and removed the barbed fittings, which I reinstalled in their former locations.
Then I ran a section of 3/8" transmission oil hose from the passenger side of the rad to the upper inlet on the cooler, and then another section of hose from the lower outlet to the hard line, so the flow oil goes as follows: Trans --> In-rad cooler --> Aux cooler --> Trans. I hope this will allow the heat exchanger in the rad to do its job in getting the ATF warmed up in cool weather, while preventing overheating on long, hot climbs etc.
Finally, I secured everything with some fuel injection clamps, and that's all there is to it! All in all, i used about 70" of hose.
Anyway, I installed the cooler lines per this thread by @thecadefire, and it really is as easy as it looks.
Here's the junkyard cooler mounted in place using brackets I made from 18ga steel. I've deleted my A/C system so I have all kinds of room to mount the cooler:
The first step was to remove the short section of cooler hose that runs from the passenger side of the rad to the hard return line. Then I cut off the hose crimps and removed the barbed fittings, which I reinstalled in their former locations.
Then I ran a section of 3/8" transmission oil hose from the passenger side of the rad to the upper inlet on the cooler, and then another section of hose from the lower outlet to the hard line, so the flow oil goes as follows: Trans --> In-rad cooler --> Aux cooler --> Trans. I hope this will allow the heat exchanger in the rad to do its job in getting the ATF warmed up in cool weather, while preventing overheating on long, hot climbs etc.
Finally, I secured everything with some fuel injection clamps, and that's all there is to it! All in all, i used about 70" of hose.
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #160
I've been sick for the past couple of weeks and haven't had much opportunity to head over to the garage to work on the Cruiser. Still, I've been able to pick away at a couple of little things here and there. One thing I decided to do was install the front seats. I was sick of tripping over them, so I figured I might as well put them in the truck. Of course I was unable to find the mounting brackets, so finally I decided to make my own out of some 1/8" plate:
After a shot of Rustoleum, here they are installed. I think they'll do the trick. If the stock ones ever resurface, I'll swap them in.
After a shot of Rustoleum, here they are installed. I think they'll do the trick. If the stock ones ever resurface, I'll swap them in.
