1997 Restoration (2 Viewers)

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Curious if that element retains the same heating after trimmed... please report back.

If you are after a really good, cheap power supply... find an old desktop computer with an ATX power supply and grab one of these breakout boards:

I use this thing for all sorts of stuff, works great.
 
Used this as the power source.

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Pointed a Seek Thermal camera attached to my iPhone to the two elements taped to the wall:

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Interesting results.

Test 1: 12V direct from power supply to the heating elements:



Test 2: 12V from power supply to the supplied harness, with the supplied switch turned to High:



Conclusion? Not sure. Definitely seems like the element where I removed some material gets warmer. Overall, I'm not so sure about the quality of these things.
 
Looks like the ones I got. Still working through 4 winters. Didn't cost much and seem to work well.
 
whats the go with the oil filter adaptor? (I havent scanned the thread to see if anyone else has queried it)
I hear tooo many stories of these things failing and causing issues and hope you dont experience the same after all the work you have done
 
whats the go with the oil filter adaptor? (I havent scanned the thread to see if anyone else has queried it)
I hear tooo many stories of these things failing and causing issues and hope you dont experience the same after all the work you have done
Bought it a while ago after seeing some discussion about it early in my Mud career. I was a little excited about mods at the time...before my mindset shifted toward keeping things OEM. So I already had it and am on the fence about leaving it there.

What are the failures you are referring to?
 
Bought it a while ago after seeing some discussion about it early in my Mud career. I was a little excited about mods at the time...before my mindset shifted toward keeping things OEM. So I already had it and am on the fence about leaving it there.

What are the failures you are referring to?

in theory it should work fine however im of the mindset that the engineers at Toyota developed the oiling system developed it this way with the filter on a slight downhill to the block for a reason.
Maybe im over thinking it but with the setup you have the filters anti drain back valve is effectively negated and on first startup the oil left behind the anti drain back valve / filter has to wait for the oil pump to pressureise before that little bit more oil enters the system

that being said it would make for cleaner oil changes :)

I just think its not worth the risk considering all the good work youve been doing on your restoration
 
Awesome work. I know you're stoked to drive it.
Thanks, and yes. Been a long time. Still lots of work to do, but this milestone definitely feels good.

We were joking last night about which fluid is going to leak immediately once we get it running. We've followed the FSM to a T, but there are so many pieces to the puzzle.
 
Thanks, and yes. Been a long time. Still lots of work to do, but this milestone definitely feels good.

We were joking last night about which fluid is going to leak immediately once we get it running. We've followed the FSM to a T, but there are so many pieces to the puzzle.
I was power steering fluid, then coolant, then power steering fluid again.

Never a dull moment.
 
From which specific locations? Any advice on what to triple-check?
Just use Toyota everything and follow torque specs in the FSM.

The torque part is normal for us.

I made the mistake of relying on some aftermarket parts.

I am regretting them, painfully, one at a time...
 
Just use Toyota everything and follow torque specs in the FSM.

The torque part is normal for us.

I made the mistake of relying on some aftermarket parts.

I am regretting them, painfully, one at a time...
Ok, thanks.

Yeah, I'm using only Toyota OEM parts and we are following FSM torque procedures. So far, the only things we installed on the engine that are aftermarket are trans cooler rubber hoses/clamps and trans/t-case breather hoses. All gaskets, orings, even FIPG, are all OEM.
 
Got the “engine room” wire installed tonight, re-wrapping some sections with the abrasive-resistant tape that people on the forum recommend, which looks great.

Installed the battery and the beefy starter and ground wires sold by Forrunner. Couldn’t get the positive side to work yet because the fusible link won’t fit anywhere on the upgraded terminal. Holes in the fusible link are too small for the large bolt and the OD on the fusible link terminals are too big around for the other bolt that has flats on both sides. I just used the old terminal block for now until I figure that out.

Anyway, with enough stuff plugged in, I opened the door and the interior lights came on. Nice. Put the key in the ignition and the chime started sounding. Nice. Turned to ACC and the CD player started trying to eject the CD that is stuck in there. So far, so good.

We are not ready to start the engine yet because fluid needs to be added to the transmission and we ran out of time for the evening. But I did bump the starter briefly a few times and everything sounded good!

Fingers crossed for the first engine start this weekend.

No pics tonight, but looking forward to Saturday.
 
Installed the battery and the beefy starter and ground wires sold by Forrunner. Couldn’t get the positive side to work yet because the fusible link won’t fit anywhere on the upgraded terminal. Holes in the fusible link are too small for the large bolt and the OD on the fusible link terminals are too big around for the other bolt that has flats on both sides. I just used the old terminal block for now until I figure that out.
been there done that. i WAS able to shove the fusible link onto the smaller bolt, and smush it against the terminal. i didn't like that as a permanent solution, so I ordered LCP's fusible link relocation kit
 
First Start!

After doing a lot of cranking to build oil pressure, fill the trans, and top off the power steering, we finally got to the point where we re-installed the EFI fuse and connected the ignition wire.

The fuel system had been completely dry, so it took a couple of tries, but once it got going, she fired up nicely.

No check engine light or any other issues except for needing to continue to feed the power steering reservoir.

Brought her up to temp, which leveled off at 178 degrees.

That heater hose is bypassing the heater valve/core while I wait for the right heater hoses to arrive.

 

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