US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
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Run it through its paces with wife in tow. Could very well be a reset.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #44
I have not been able to figure out what the issue is and I am ok with it, mostly. I am going use this as my excuse to move forward with the engine swap and refresh of the cruiser. The only reason I may spend more time troubleshooting the issues is to eliminate any issues with the body harness ahead of the swap. If anyone has a good 3FE ecu they would lone me I would pay shipping both ways. I would like to rule out the ecu as the issue.
This battery box should have been replaced a long time ago. I am sure its broken and weakened state is what created enough play to allow the battery bar to come unscrewed and move around until it connected the positive terminal to the hood. It also doesn’t help that I had the wrong battery configuration for this set up. The battery terminals should have been facing the rear of the box away from the hold down bar. I learned something and figured I would pass it on.
This battery box should have been replaced a long time ago. I am sure its broken and weakened state is what created enough play to allow the battery bar to come unscrewed and move around until it connected the positive terminal to the hood. It also doesn’t help that I had the wrong battery configuration for this set up. The battery terminals should have been facing the rear of the box away from the hold down bar. I learned something and figured I would pass it on.
Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #45
I bought this 2uz VVTI a while ago with the plan to swap it into this 80. It has 106k miles on it and the sticker on the engine cover says the timing belt was done at 84k miles. The engine has been stored inside and not run for 3 plus years. Anyone think I should swap the timing belt out again?
I have been doing some research on the VVTI version and I am leaning toward deleting the SAI system to reduce maintenance needs, clean up the excess on the engine and use the non VVTI manifold’s
Is there anything else specific to the VVTI I should address before installing it?
Starting with this.
I have been doing some research on the VVTI version and I am leaning toward deleting the SAI system to reduce maintenance needs, clean up the excess on the engine and use the non VVTI manifold’s
Is there anything else specific to the VVTI I should address before installing it?
Starting with this.
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
I have replaced a lot of 2uz and other Toyota timing belts. I have never seen a belt that looked "bad"
Idler, tensioner pulleys, and water pumps are a different story, I have seen a lot of them that were junk. The VVTI 2uz is well known as an "interference" engine and would be trashed if it were to jump time more than a few degrees. If it were me I would go ahead and change the timing belt and all associated parts.
Ditto on pulleys, idlers, etc. they were worn out when I did my wife’s truck. These can seize and cause some damage. In case you are interested Dennis, here is the parts I replaced. Olathe was cheapest to my door.
Sorry. Non-vvti!!!!
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #51
Good advice here. I have only seen the timing belt on two 2uz’s and they looked fine when removed. I suppose that is the idea though if you do the service as suggested. I have no reason to doubt that the service was done based off the service tag and the sellers word. I may just run it as is to get it going. I have already splurged on this build other than I originally intended, so I need plan a few things out before go too deep into everything.
Parts have already started showing up and thanks to some lightning fast freight shipping I have a big box to open for Christmas!
Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #52
I peaked in the box box today and it is real, I bought back the h151f 2uz set up I passed on to the prior owner of this 80. Turns out he saw my post about preparing the 80 for the 2uz swap and offered it up. After a little thought it was a done deal.
It came with a bunch of small parts to help complete the install but I still have pieces to order. It will sit in the box until I have more pieces of it. I need to get the 45 bed done and on to make space for the 80 before my Land Cruiser ADHD kicks in.
Does anyone know if the tcase differential actuator is interchangeable between the 80 and 100 tcase? The plug is obviously different.
It came with a bunch of small parts to help complete the install but I still have pieces to order. It will sit in the box until I have more pieces of it. I need to get the 45 bed done and on to make space for the 80 before my Land Cruiser ADHD kicks in.
Does anyone know if the tcase differential actuator is interchangeable between the 80 and 100 tcase? The plug is obviously different.
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alia176
SILVER Star
Wow, is this a brand new h151?
alia176
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that packing job is no joke.
Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #57
I pulled the harness from the engine to send out to get reworked. I knew part of the SAI system was in the craddle but had not been into a VVTI before. It seems Toyota didn’t think pulling the starter was enough work as it was, they wanted to pack more crap around it. I am still leaning towards deleting all the SAI, I just need to do more research.
I ordered a bunch more parts and should get started on this soon.
I ordered a bunch more parts and should get started on this soon.
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Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #58
I started prepping the engine to be able to put back together by the end of the month when I really get started.
Pulled the Intake, to remove all the SAI components. With everything out of the way I decided to pain the block. I used this POR15 engine enamel after using their degreaser and metal prep. It is has been really cold at my place but I did let that deter me. Initially the enamel was as thick as honey, I had to set it in front of a heater to warm it up so I could brush it on. I went through several cycles of warm it up, brush it on , rewarm it, brush it on etc…. Optimum temperature is 70 degrees, I hope I didn’t waste my time.
Since then the engine has been sitting under this tarp with a heater going to keep it warm enough cure. Let’s hope it doesn’t catch fire.
Pulled the Intake, to remove all the SAI components. With everything out of the way I decided to pain the block. I used this POR15 engine enamel after using their degreaser and metal prep. It is has been really cold at my place but I did let that deter me. Initially the enamel was as thick as honey, I had to set it in front of a heater to warm it up so I could brush it on. I went through several cycles of warm it up, brush it on , rewarm it, brush it on etc…. Optimum temperature is 70 degrees, I hope I didn’t waste my time.
Since then the engine has been sitting under this tarp with a heater going to keep it warm enough cure. Let’s hope it doesn’t catch fire.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
I spent some time this past weekend rearranging the garage, so I could get the 80 in. The 45 project had really spread out but it is far enough along to share the space, so it has company which will be distracting at times. I am hoping the swap goes quickly after I start.
Interestingly I have driven the 80 three times after letting it sit and have not been able to repeat the check engine light or electrical issue when under load with lights turned on. Weird, doesn’t matter at this point. I plan start to the swap shortly.
Interestingly I have driven the 80 three times after letting it sit and have not been able to repeat the check engine light or electrical issue when under load with lights turned on. Weird, doesn’t matter at this point. I plan start to the swap shortly.
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Pretty rare as I thought only LX450 full-spec 80's were sold in the US. It's got some of the features of our Oz pov/dx/base model 80's with the no-sunroof, fixed cargo side glass, no flares, but it still has a tailgate not barn doors.
Looks pretty nice and hopefully is mostly rust-free.
Looks pretty nice and hopefully is mostly rust-free.
