Battery Type for Dual-Battery 1HDT? (1 Viewer)

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I believe there is so much potential for the LTO technology. I've seen this a while ago on a camper van build.



yes there expensive but look at the life cycles its simply amazing!!!

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i just spend 1/2 that on new lead acid batteries which have last about 8 years. that really isn’t out of line for that price and how long they’d last. i’ll have to keep an eye on this and how you like it. maybe i’ll go this way 8 years from now!!

shipping is stupid there though!!
 
i just spend 1/2 that on new lead acid batteries which have last about 8 years. that really isn’t out of line for that price and how long they’d last. i’ll have to keep an eye on this and how you like it. maybe i’ll go this way 8 years from now!!

shipping is stupid there though!!
if you get 8 years out of it well worth it...

I have 2 Northstar AGMs 100AH and I'm seeing some capacity loss but its been about 6 years now with heavy use
 
Uh.....even if you don't get 8 years it's worth it. I just spent $700 on ~200AH of capacity with Odyssey's, for 50% more you can get 5X the capacity and 10X the cycles.....it's a total no brainer if the cold performance is really what they claim!!!! Too bad I didn't know about this technology in April. I think I'll get a bunch of these for my camper, that's pretty harsh use (no heated engine bay, LONG periods between discharges, etc.).

EDIT: The puncture test of a standard Li-Ion chemistry battery in the above video is CRAZY scary!!!!
 
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Now with these LTO batteries is there some sort of BMS needed?

What happens if over discharge is balance charging even a thing to be worried about?

How is it on fast discharge and low voltages. Like running a electric winch with high electrical demands?
 
Now with these LTO batteries is there some sort of BMS needed?
If batteries compared by internal resistance and you don’t rise up voltage, BMS not needed. Else, of course, bms needed
 
How is it on fast discharge and low voltages. Like running a electric winch with high electrical demands?
Battery model: 2.3V 45Ah
Nominal voltage: 2.3V
Rated capacity: 45Ah
Internal resistance: less than 0.4mΩ
Weight: 1.2±0.05kg
Size: 66*160mm
Discharge cut-off voltage: 1.5V
Maximum continuous discharge current: 450A (10C)
Charging cut-off voltage: 2.9V
Maximum pulse discharge current: 900A (20C)
Cycle life (80% DOD): 25000 cycles
Working temperature: -50°C ~ 65°C
 
i just spend 1/2 that on new lead acid batteries which have last about 8 years. that really isn’t out of line for that price and how long they’d last. i’ll have to keep an eye on this and how you like it. maybe i’ll go this way 8 years from now!!
I buy 12 pieces 45AH LTO for 491 usd with shipping, 20 usd for cases and 10 usd for aluminium bus.
Good quality 105D31R/L batteries costs about 230-250 usd in our local shop.
Lead acid batteries works about 3-5 years in our climate.

Price are same, but LTO lighter, more powerful, more compact.
 
Where did you get your cells from? Looks like there's a lot of crappy A-/B quality ones around....I haven't found a clearly reputable source.
 
Thanks for the specs.

It says cutoff voltage around 1.5v is that circuit protection built into the battery or is that something a BMS/protection circuit could do/manage

Good quality 105D31R/L batteries costs about 230-250 usd in our local shop.
Lead acid batteries works about 3-5 years in our climate.

Price are same, but LTO lighter, more powerful, more compact.
 
Where did you get your cells from? Looks like there's a lot of crappy A-/B quality ones around....I haven't found a clearly reputable source.
From Chinese Alibaba marketplace. Batteries new, there are no any scratches or traces of use. Internal resistance 0,3-0,35mOm
 
Thanks for the specs.

It says cutoff voltage around 1.5v is that circuit protection built into the battery or is that something a BMS/protection circuit could do/manage
No, there are haven’t any protection. It’s just a low level discharge voltage.
 
No, there are haven’t any protection. It’s just a low level discharge voltage.
been learning alot about these batteries.

there are 6s Balancers out there that are LTO ready


This one spec really got I'm interested.
6min charge time per cell?

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Charging two batteries in parallel will always result in one battery crapping itself eventually. This happens all the time on HDJ81s. Most no start conditions are because of that.
Why?
 
Well it's funny he said that because I'm certain that all my no start conditions were caused by DRAINING my batteries in parallel! :rofl:
 

Well it's funny he said that because I'm certain that all my no start conditions were caused by DRAINING my batteries in parallel! :rofl:

CHARGING batteries in parallel only works long term if the batteries are the exact same capacity, age, condition and quality.

What tends to happen is that people change one of the batteries. This results in unbalanced charging of the batteries and one will drop a cell. Usually this presents as good voltage but can’t supply enough current to crank.
 
CHARGING batteries in parallel only works long term if the batteries are the exact same capacity, age, condition and quality.

What tends to happen is that people change one of the batteries. This results in unbalanced charging of the batteries and one will drop a cell. Usually this presents as good voltage but can’t supply enough current to crank.
"...people charge one of the batteries"? In an HDJ-81 the batteries are in parallel all the time except when cranking, thus they drain and charge in parallel vitually at all times. And when you start the engine the 12/24V solenoid puts the batteries in series momentarily then switches back to parallel when it starts (which on most 1HD-Ts is like almost instantaneously).

Hence my comment. Why is this the problem with most "no start" conditions on an HDJ in NZ? I'm not talking about dual battery setups here. BTW when you charge an HDJ it's irrelevant which battery you charge. I have seen 12/24V solenoids burn out if you do a lot of winching - Toyota put the OEM winch power wire on the wrong terminal of that12/24 solenoid but that's another discussion.

That said, I can't start mine so I'm off to buy a couple batteries today so I can get it in the garage. Ciao....
 
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"...people charge one of the batteries"? In an HDJ-81 the batteries are in parallel all the time except when cranking, thus they drain and charge in parallel vitually at all times. And when you start the engine the 12/24V solenoid puts the batteries in series momentarily then switches back to parallel when it starts (which on most 1HD-Ts is like almost instantaneously).

Hence my comment. Why is this the problem with most "no start" conditions on an HDJ in NZ? I'm not talking about dual battery setups here. BTW when you charge an HDJ it's irrelevant which battery you charge. I have seen 12/24V solenoids burn out if you do a lot of winching - Toyota put the OEM winch power wire on the wrong terminal of that12/24 solenoid but that's another discussion.

That said, I can't start mine so I'm off to buy a couple batteries today so I can get it in the garage. Ciao....

I'm not talking about charging one battery, i'm talking about people changing one of the batteries. That's what causes the no start situation given time.

You and I both understand the 24v starting system and how it works. Other people don't. For whatever reason one of the batteries gets changed. This temporarily fixes the problem and the truck starts, happy days. However now there are two completely different (age, condition, SOC) batteries getting charged in parallel. They don't get charged evenly, and eventually both will show good voltage, but when the solenoid switches for 24v they can't provide enough current and click click click.

That's been my experience on several trucks. They show good volts but one will load test bad. That said I've pulled the whole 24v start system out of mine so the RH tray can run the auxiliary battery.
 

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