1998 High Mileage - Removing Vibrations (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Threads
8
Messages
29
Location
Maple Valley, WA
I've got 319k miles on my 1998. Owned it since 2012. Seems like this thing has excessive vibrations going down the road. Just too much vibration in the seat at 60+. What's the best place to start with restoring that smooth quiet interior on the freeway in a 23 year old vehicle? Body Mounts? Engine Mounts? Transmission/T-Case Flush? New shocks/springs? Go to Medium OME springs? I'm also considering taking it into a shop and get a second opinion, but that invariable is going to be $$$ and potentially no improvement. Anything you've done that really helped make it feel smooth again?

Mods:
1.5" Front/ 3" Rear Lift with OME Heavy Springs in 2014
Slee Diff Drop

Done so far:
270k service done on time with Diff oil F/R
Driveshafts Re-Balanced
New Tires (AT instead of MT)
Front Diff Bracket, Transmission Mounts

2021-07-01 14.08.11.jpg
 
Vibrations on the body of the truck is mainly from worn drive shaft U-joints. Use OEm U-joints. NEVER GMB- lasts few days!
 
Vibrations on the body of the truck is mainly from worn drive shaft U-joints. Use OEm U-joints. NEVER GMB- lasts few days!
Hate to complain here as I LOVE my 100 but the driving experience for the past few months has been atrocious and getting worse.

Symptoms: The whole front end bull bar shakes/vibrates, rear seats chafe, squeak and shake at exactly 70 mph+.

Feels like the whole car shakes as opposed to steering wheel or breaks.

I recall in the past inspecting both driveshafts but not getting ANY play in them.

The whole front end has been rebuilt with new upper control arms, inner tie rods, tie rods ends, lower ball joints, new bearings, grease, rebuilt OE axles, sway bars, shocks, and all tires balanced, rotated and aligned.

I think tonight I am going to remove the rear drive shaft and give it a spin…

Need a reminder, with the rear drive shaft removed you have to lock the CDL, right? How about with the front drive shaft removed?

The only thing I think I might be missing are the needle roller bearings in the steering knuckle?

Rig has 265k miles.
 
Need a reminder, with the rear drive shaft removed you have to lock the CDL, right? How about with the front drive shaft removed?

Yes to both. Drop one, go for a spin, then reinstall and repeat the process with the other.

Look into your rear control arm bushings as well.
 
Good luck! I have similar symptoms, but only at exactly that mph when towing.
 
Updates:
Found front shocks were toast, went to OME 2865 (medium) in the rear and OEM shocks all around. (Maybe a little improvement, certainly ride quality better over OME 2863s)
Replaced front ball joints that were toast.
Biggest improvement of all was spending $300 on that freaking frame weight and putting it on. Definitely regret removing it and tossing it back in 2014.
 
Updates:
Found front shocks were toast, went to OME 2865 (medium) in the rear and OEM shocks all around. (Maybe a little improvement, certainly ride quality better over OME 2863s)
Replaced front ball joints that were toast.
Biggest improvement of all was spending $300 on that freaking frame weight and putting it on. Definitely regret removing it and tossing it back in 2014.
Yeah Toyota is not known for adding items that aren’t needed.
 
Never thought of replacing the weight after it was missing after some trails. Maybe I should put that on the list.
 

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