IIRC, my studs had a hex wrench facility in the one end.
Even easier, so no hassle at all.
Curious, do they instruct you to torque the studs in, or just install them snug?
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IIRC, my studs had a hex wrench facility in the one end.
This is a general subject that has arisen here on Mud in the past. I have never installed a stud any tighter than say 15-20 inch pounds and in some instances, finger tight or zero torque. Don’t quote me on this but I think that the reason some people order the Opel studs is because they are a bit longer and being able to bottom out a stud makes some feel more confident in the final assembly and I don’t think the 1fz studs actually bottom out. The general rule is thread engagement at least equal to the diameter of the stud. This is what I remember doing back in 2015.Even easier, so no hassle at all.
Curious, do they instruct you to torque the studs in, or just install them snug?
So, school me here: Why would you need to remove the cams to retorque the studs?Yes. Theoretically studs should go through a second torquing process after the initial heat cycle, hence torque to yield bolts from the factory. I didn’t do a second torque sequence. I know of only one Mud member who has gone to the trouble of removing the cams to do a second torque on head studs and I’ve never read about a HG failure presumably due to not torquing studs a second time.
The cams/gears block accessSo, school me here: Why would you need to remove the cams to retorque the studs?
I'm thinking to change the HG at 170k...I didn't vote because I swapped out my HG with a cometic HG for no reason..... I thought I had a motor issue and it ended up being the darn gear on the power steering pump making a terrible racket! When I took the motor apart and to the machine shop the guy asked me several times why I was rebuilding the motor because he could not see a thing wrong with it at 190,000 miles.
Wait, what? The head bolts / studs are UNDER the cams? WTF? Well THAT just got complicated...
They are indeed hiding snugly underneath the camshafts. Camshaft removal is so easy; that is the way I changed shims.Wait, what? The head bolts / studs are UNDER the cams? WTF? Well THAT just got complicated...
Well, it's an engine I'm going to swap into the vehicle, 170k miles vs my 236k. If things look good inside, I'm going to do early PM while it's easy, and s/c when I can afford it. One of those PM items is the HG; given the cost, I'm still up in the air about that, but lean toward doing it (even at 170k).I think that "thinking" about swapping out the HG is silly talk unless you have a reason. Are you going to supercharge or turbo? Are you seeing bubbles in your coolant? Otherwise I would not mess with it. JMHO
yeah you tell 'emSo you came to the place where head gasket paranoia runs rampant to do a sample survey? How much do you want to bet it's going to bias towards the head gasket having problems?
I'm thinking this is the wrong block to go around, bubba.
Yeah, could be more like ticktickticktick...[ten years pass]...ticktickticktick...if you have every intention of boosting, and/or you have the spare time and $ and want to do the preventative maintenance then go for it. It would be piece of mind down the road; I know I have felt that.
I just don't want people to think it's like the PHH where you get your hands on an 80 and you think you better do the HG before it goes..... tick, tick, tick boom
I’m at 236k and luckily no issues so far on the original HGI'm thinking to change the HG at 170k...
A head gasket is not PM, it called reading to much MUDWell, it's an engine I'm going to swap into the vehicle, 170k miles vs my 236k. If things look good inside, I'm going to do early PM while it's easy, and s/c when I can afford it. One of those PM items is the HG; given the cost, I'm still up in the air about that, but lean toward doing it (even at 170k).
If your talking about EngEngr in post #176 I would say skip the oil analysis, it's safe to say the HG went south !!I had mine replaced by the Dealer in Phoenix for about $1800. Now mine didn't actually fail in the traditional sense but I had a Blackstone Oil Analysis come back with extremely high Sodium and Potassium readings, which are indicative of coolant in the oil. I took it in, had the HG swapped and sure enough, it was starting to go on good old #6. I'm eternally thankful for that analysis reading as I had the opportunity to deal with a HG replacement on my terms and my schedule for once. I just chalked it up to the rest of the base-lining work expense-wise. I was going to supercharge when I bought it so this was always on my to-do list. I didn't because supercharging in Phoenix is just plain awful from those who've attempted it. Now that I'm in TN...a supercharger is back on the table...or a turbo...
Maybe start with an oil analysis and the EG test you mentioned. That will tell you what kind of shape you're really in.
A head gasket is not PM, it called reading to much MUD
Don't overheat it and it well be fine, making sure the cooling system is in perfect shape is PM
All that's is true !!Mine was never overheated and head gasket went at 316K.
Fortunately I was at home when it happened.
It's really a matter of how you use your Land Cruiser and how much inconvenience you are willing to accept when it happens.
Being 500 miles away from home on vacation will look a little different than having it happen a couple blocks away at the grocery store.