This one is a bugger, new battery month ago, and seems a bit different than the EFI fuse/fusebox "crank/ no start" issue - old battery was about 3 when it died - Big Interstate Group 31 AGM (little odd so short lived, but I live in the tropics and do low miles). Hopefully this is all some kind of dud battery issue - have to wait until Monday to go test it, but via my diagnosis unlikely.
Problem... After keying ignition on to start (normal door/dash lights all on etc. beforehand) all cabin power is lost, no crank, no start - only get open door alarm beep with key in first position. Jumping from secondary battery does nothing. Checked charge on battery 80% (via charger) with multimeter reading of 12.6v - left terminals unplugged and charged to 100% - reconnected and started - good for a week.
Week two (sits for a few days) - same happens, check battery charge 90% (via charger) 12.6v with multimeter. Remove terminals and, charge to 100% - starts up, good for a day, day two same issue.
3rd outage. While out, I read some voltages in fuse panel from fuses and relays and voltage was 7-9v on different spots (seems this could point to fuse box/panel or ground issue).
It seems to me maybe there is some type of safety breaker that may be kicking on once the starter tries to engage with bad voltage and only reset by the memory voltage going to zero for an extended period. I removed terminals and waited for vehicles voltage to drop to .01v and then touched positive and negative together, took about 3-5 minutes, read at 0v and reconnected terminals and it didn't start (seems it needs about 20-30 minutes so far to "forget"). Waited for about a half hour for it to drop to zero by itself and it started.
I'm not sure a bad battery could be the culprit with no change while jumping - but I will be taking it in for testing.
Battery is reading at 80% on charger on this third time of no power- between 12.6-12.7 on multimeter - it went to 13.1 (dropping off slowly as normal) after alternator put some charge on it (strange that it is at 80% again - but possibly bull**** "smart" charger reading??) I actually disconnected some accessory power feeds to winch and DC/DC charger to eliminate those as issues of draw dawn (only other non factory connection is stereo amp). I did notice my winch beeping after power outage which is strange as battery is reading 12.6V- so I'm not sure how that would see a break in power, it only does this when voltage battery drops down low (Pointing to faulty battery or bad connection at terminal). Maybe the cone of the battery post and terminal connection is different angles and it is only grabbing at top of post? Using auto terminals and quality military style terminals, so doubtful - but I do need to damn near close down 100% to get terminals to feel solid grab.
Starter makes some grind noise, I'm guessing as old battery was fading delivering slower starting, starter gear was also getting a bit mangled ( it's at about 150K - should be still a baby) but likely ready for a swap - new battery definitely turns it quicker and usually less of the noise, it still starts up every time (other than this new gremlin). Not sure if this could be a starter short robbing all power, or safety circuit ?
So far checked through all main panel fuses and fusible links, everything looks cherry - no corrosion or melting or burning - all copper contacts look clean . I have an extra fat ground installed to body and continuity at the block from the battery terminal. Once it happens again I would like to look at voltage on main fusible links.
The other part of this could be the fuse block/panel/box itself - I talked briefly with cruiser outfitters and they said there has been some posts on bad fuse blocks/panels causing issues like this - but so far haven't found the issue of no power to cabin at all, just no crank/no start situations - immobilizer not getting correct voltage/ohms issue - I tried swapping to 30Amp on EFI fuse - no difference.
Doesn't start in neutral.
Any help would be awesome, any pointing to ground location posts/ bad wiring that could do this/ ecu failures / safety switches- would be awesome or posts on loss of power
Thanks in advance. Josh
Problem... After keying ignition on to start (normal door/dash lights all on etc. beforehand) all cabin power is lost, no crank, no start - only get open door alarm beep with key in first position. Jumping from secondary battery does nothing. Checked charge on battery 80% (via charger) with multimeter reading of 12.6v - left terminals unplugged and charged to 100% - reconnected and started - good for a week.
Week two (sits for a few days) - same happens, check battery charge 90% (via charger) 12.6v with multimeter. Remove terminals and, charge to 100% - starts up, good for a day, day two same issue.
3rd outage. While out, I read some voltages in fuse panel from fuses and relays and voltage was 7-9v on different spots (seems this could point to fuse box/panel or ground issue).
It seems to me maybe there is some type of safety breaker that may be kicking on once the starter tries to engage with bad voltage and only reset by the memory voltage going to zero for an extended period. I removed terminals and waited for vehicles voltage to drop to .01v and then touched positive and negative together, took about 3-5 minutes, read at 0v and reconnected terminals and it didn't start (seems it needs about 20-30 minutes so far to "forget"). Waited for about a half hour for it to drop to zero by itself and it started.
I'm not sure a bad battery could be the culprit with no change while jumping - but I will be taking it in for testing.
Battery is reading at 80% on charger on this third time of no power- between 12.6-12.7 on multimeter - it went to 13.1 (dropping off slowly as normal) after alternator put some charge on it (strange that it is at 80% again - but possibly bull**** "smart" charger reading??) I actually disconnected some accessory power feeds to winch and DC/DC charger to eliminate those as issues of draw dawn (only other non factory connection is stereo amp). I did notice my winch beeping after power outage which is strange as battery is reading 12.6V- so I'm not sure how that would see a break in power, it only does this when voltage battery drops down low (Pointing to faulty battery or bad connection at terminal). Maybe the cone of the battery post and terminal connection is different angles and it is only grabbing at top of post? Using auto terminals and quality military style terminals, so doubtful - but I do need to damn near close down 100% to get terminals to feel solid grab.
Starter makes some grind noise, I'm guessing as old battery was fading delivering slower starting, starter gear was also getting a bit mangled ( it's at about 150K - should be still a baby) but likely ready for a swap - new battery definitely turns it quicker and usually less of the noise, it still starts up every time (other than this new gremlin). Not sure if this could be a starter short robbing all power, or safety circuit ?
So far checked through all main panel fuses and fusible links, everything looks cherry - no corrosion or melting or burning - all copper contacts look clean . I have an extra fat ground installed to body and continuity at the block from the battery terminal. Once it happens again I would like to look at voltage on main fusible links.
The other part of this could be the fuse block/panel/box itself - I talked briefly with cruiser outfitters and they said there has been some posts on bad fuse blocks/panels causing issues like this - but so far haven't found the issue of no power to cabin at all, just no crank/no start situations - immobilizer not getting correct voltage/ohms issue - I tried swapping to 30Amp on EFI fuse - no difference.
Doesn't start in neutral.
Any help would be awesome, any pointing to ground location posts/ bad wiring that could do this/ ecu failures / safety switches- would be awesome or posts on loss of power
Thanks in advance. Josh