Rear axle housing (1 Viewer)

[Cablebandit]

I have a 2001 Tundra and my rear differential it leaking through the metal. I'm in PA so rust is a feature on Toyota's here. Other than needing a new bed, the truck is in otherwise good shape. The frame was replaced under warranty and the engine runs fine and interior looks like it just rolled off the production line. My question is if I can find a relatively rust free axle housing is this a straight forward swap of unbolting the old one and bolting in the new one? I've been looking to replace it with a 2018+ Landcruiser but I'm waiting for used prices to get a bit more reasonable so I'm just trying to get as much life out of this truck as I can. We have yearly safety inspection here so I can probably only put a JB Weld band-aid on the problem for so long.

 

[jsnow]

If you are replacing the whole rear axle you would just need to make sure to get a replacement with the same gear ratio as your truck. Then it will just be a bolt in affair. Make sure to get new u-Bolts. There is a Toyota recycler in Rancho Cordova that would probably have a rust free rear axle, although shipping may be steep to PA.

 

[Nframe]

You can buy a new housing from Toyota ($1000+) and swap out everything from your old axle housing (brake lines, third member, brakes, etc). Not a hard job.
You'll need new axle seals.

 

[Jetboy]

FWIW, this may be obvious to you, but if not -

It's a little more than just a few bolts. You'll need to disconnect the brake wires, the rear shocks, the brake lines and emergency brake cables, the drive shaft and the u-bolts. It's not recommend to reuse u bolts. (I've done it without a problem, but not recommend.) And then reassemble in reverse order. I would put fresh brakes on while your doing it. And you'll need to bleed the brakes.

So it's a little of work. But certainly something you can knock out in a day with basic tools. The only things you'll need that are a little more than the basic tool kit is some tall jack stands to hold the frame up while you drop the axle out. And a brake bleed setup of some type or a buddy.

With that level of rust I think new u bolts is a good idea. And I'd start spraying everything down with a penetrating oil a week before you start to let it really work. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up breaking some fasteners along the way either.


Good luck!!

 

[Kris]

Honestly, I would just weld/JB weld the pin holes. It seems like most early Tundras do this. The disappointing thing about buying another used axle in your area is that it will probably eventually leak.

If you're going to R&R the rear axle, I would be prepared to snap 90% of the brake lines you try to remove. Again, like everyone has said, it's not a difficult job, but as a fellow rust-beltonian, everything is more difficult in real life than on a forum.

 

[Cablebandit]

Agreed, I've had a 10 minute brake job turn into a 3 day affair due to breaking bolts. At this point I think I'm just socking away money to replace it with a used 200 series or wait and see what's coming out in 2024. I made it through my commie state inspection with JB Weld so I'm good for another year. If it fails next year I may just run it without an inspection sticker. It I get caught (unlikely since I work from home and the truck only gets about 2000 miles a year on it) then the ticket is less than the repair.