WD-40 as rust-prevention? (1 Viewer)

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Look at the back of the can of FluidFilm. It warns about softening vehicle undercoatings and paint; even FluidFilm doesn't know what it is for.
Nonsense. It does not damage paint or anything else. I have been using it for years.
 
Nonsense. It does not damage paint or anything else. I have been using it for years.
As a petroleum product it has the potential to interact with other petroleum products. Undercoating is not very durable compared to a catalyzed enamel or urethane coating, and even some 'paint' (lacquer comes to mind) can easily be softened by other petroleum products. They either note that on the can or deal with litigation down the road.
 
I uploaded this for my fellow F-Headers from the 70s in the 40/55 section. Consider how the humidity and temperature in your garage affects your most current covering of dirt and winter brine. Thank Nissan for putting it in their Owner's Manual. BTW, old Datsun/Nissan trucks actually kinda look like the ones illustrated, the owner's manual is from '85.

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I do live in San Diego, close to the beach and take the 80 to the beach often and drive roads along the beach as my daily commute. The truck is a CA car and I got it rust free. Sadly, the under carriage is starting to surface rust. Body is still perfect. But the forward facing surface of everything under- the forward surface of the coils, not the back, the forward face of the stabilizer, steering rod, panhard, front tow hooks not the rear, front of axle housing not the rear is surface rust. It’s like it’s from driving through the salty air. Or when I’m parked at the beach facing the water.
OK I see so I'd go with wool wax or what ever the use in the rust belt
 
I'm just going to add one more "no" to WD-40. I grew up with the stuff around, saw the 1000 uses, penetrant to arthritis cure. Later learned that it's not that great for any of those things. The only thing I keep it around for is literally, Water Displacement. Nice to have a little can if the wash or water crossing gets too aggressive. It's not a good penetrant, it's not a good lubricant. At least not the classic stuff, they do have the "specialist" line now. For arthritis, I just got new hips.

Jason
 
How about using paste wax if it is smooth enough? I found that if you can sand your rust smooth enough, like 220 grit for areas without single-stage enamel, and 600 for areas with single-stage enamel, a paste wax will not be chalky when done. Wax won't attract road junk either. The top of my FJ40 (sorry wrong section) is so much easier to remove snow from after I washed the paint, and applied paste wax, so I'd bet it is also protecting it from road dust, tree resins, and bird doo - which I've actually seen etch some clear paint on my Nissan. I sponge wash my trucks, so the only way to remove the final dust layer is to have an ever so slightly waxy rag. And, I'm very impressed what small amounts of wax can actually do as far as keeping it clean even after it gets a bit dirty and wet.

Anecdotally, and a bit off the subject, if you use wax on a bicycle chain it stays so much cleaner, and the chain lasts so much longer. If I want to refresh rollers with your chain wax, I do a drop of Boeshield, which dissolves it, draws it in tight spaces, then evaporates. The whole time the links are covered with protection, so they aren't nearly the magnet for everything picked up on the road and trail. So you can basically touch it with bare hands and not be in a major dusty greasy, metal particle laden black material.

I'm a fan of TriFlow in a bottle with the little straw tube for exposed fasteners. Like once a year, go around and put a drop under a washer or screw head. Then wipe off the excess after a day or so.

The only nice quality that I see with WD40 is that you can spray it slightly above horizontal, with is good until my Cruiser gets parked on a rotisserie.
 

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