I would. San Diego is on the Pacific Ocean. Salt mist from the shoreline waves migrates at least 10 miles inland with the onshore wind. The dew every morning has salt in it.so I would not worry
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I would. San Diego is on the Pacific Ocean. Salt mist from the shoreline waves migrates at least 10 miles inland with the onshore wind. The dew every morning has salt in it.so I would not worry
Something like roofing tar or even the old undercoating in a can is about the worst thing you could use. Metal will rust under the coating and it will actually become worse. I personally avoid anything that dries to a hard substance. Fluid film has worked great for me and I'm sure wool wax performs the same if not better.How about good ol fashioned Tar.
You know Bitumen, that black sticky substance that bubbles up from the depths. Asphalt, roofing tar, that's what you need. Coats, seals, and sticks.
You don't need a commercial product you need a natural product.
I'd say wd40 would need to be applied weekly to have any effect. Have you priced a can of that stuff lately?
It's more than a damn plate of tacos. No sale!
Your mechanic must hate you passionately.How about good ol fashioned Tar.
You know Bitumen, that black sticky substance that bubbles up from the depths. Asphalt, roofing tar, that's what you need. Coats, seals, and sticks.
You don't need a commercial product you need a natural product.
I'd say wd40 would need to be applied weekly to have any effect. Have you priced a can of that stuff lately?
It's more than a damn plate of tacos. No sale!
I would. San Diego is on the Pacific Ocean. Salt mist from the shoreline waves migrates at least 10 miles inland with the onshore wind. The dew every morning has salt in it.
I do live in San Diego, close to the beach and take the 80 to the beach often and drive roads along the beach as my daily commute. The truck is a CA car and I got it rust free. Sadly, the under carriage is starting to surface rust. Body is still perfect. But the forward facing surface of everything under- the forward surface of the coils, not the back, the forward face of the stabilizer, steering rod, panhard, front tow hooks not the rear, front of axle housing not the rear is surface rust. It’s like it’s from driving through the salty air. Or when I’m parked at the beach facing the water.Tar will seal out the corrosive elements.
Most of your commercial undercoat, is tar with a "trade name". And yeah besides smog, and tires I have never taken any vehicle I've got to a shop.
I'm a professional mechanic, employed in the industry, and of all the stupid things I see, using WD-40 for rust prevention on a vehicle doesn't even make the top ten.
I see people waste thousands on less effective things on a daily basis.
A fool and their money- soon parted.
Cheers and happy wheeling.
Or when I’m parked at the beach facing the water
that is exactly what is happening. Ok well looks like im in for some arm and shoulder workout on my back under the car scraping and prepping for re paint. good times.That’s the number one sin - parking close to breaking waves. But also all forward facing steel under the vehicle gets sand blasted on all vehicles which wears off the paint. Then add salt mist and those forward facing sand blasted parts will rust first.
So you are your own mechanic. I stand by my earlier statement.Tar will seal out the corrosive elements.
Most of your commercial undercoat, is tar with a "trade name". And yeah besides smog, and tires I have never taken any vehicle I've got to a shop.
I'm a professional mechanic, employed in the industry, and of all the stupid things I see, using WD-40 for rust prevention on a vehicle doesn't even make the top ten.
I see people waste thousands on less effective things on a daily basis.
A fool and their money- soon parted.
Cheers and happy wheeling.
You’d be surprised at how badly the salt air can corrode vehicles and other steel if you’re close to the ocean. I used to build art work for peoples beach houses in San Diego area and if it wasn’t coated correctly it would severely rust after a couple years.So you live in San Diego California, last time I recall is you have no real rust issues there, ( Born and raised 1963-2003) so I would not worry
Care to share a few of the top ten stupid things people do that you see in your shop, just to make sure I’m not doing any of them?Tar will seal out the corrosive elements.
Most of your commercial undercoat, is tar with a "trade name". And yeah besides smog, and tires I have never taken any vehicle I've got to a shop.
I'm a professional mechanic, employed in the industry, and of all the stupid things I see, using WD-40 for rust prevention on a vehicle doesn't even make the top ten.
I see people waste thousands on less effective things on a daily basis.
A fool and their money- soon parted.
Cheers and happy wheeling.
TriFlow works well
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WD-40 and similar products never dry, which is the reason for the dust advisory.I would not. It will attract dust like crazy and won't really last all that long. There are better products for what you want to do, like Fluid Film, but most of them attract dust too.
Look at products designed to prevent salt corrosion on road maintenance equipment.
You could always move to Plaster City...That’s the number one sin - parking close to breaking waves. But also all forward facing steel under the vehicle gets sand blasted on all vehicles which wears off the paint. Then add salt mist and those forward facing sand blasted parts will rust first.
Look at the back of the can of FluidFilm. It warns about softening vehicle undercoatings and paint; even FluidFilm doesn't know what it is for.Why would you not use a product that is designed to do what you want it to do?
I spray Fluid Film from tip to tail every October and daily drive in the northeast. Woolwax works well too.
Hey dude! I am also wanting some rust protection for my 80. I have done some research and CRC shines way above fluid film and lasts for a pretty long time. I will post the link to it on amazon. Also if you want to watch a good video about it vs the other brands I will post that too. I plan on taking a ski trip to West Virginia (SnowShoe) from North Carolina in a month or so and I am pretty sure they salt the roads pretty heavily up there so I need some kind of protection!Any downside to spraying the axle housings, frame rails, control arms, radius arms and pretty much the underside of the truck as a form of rust-prevention?
What say the MUD community?
PS- I did search, and found a few obscure posts of some members doing this but wanted to hear some more weigh-ins.
Last week a customer brought me a lift gate truck that doesn't function.Care to share a few of the top ten stupid things people do that you see in your shop, just to make sure I’m not doing any of them?
Must be the water in ChicoLast week a customer brought me a lift gate truck that doesn't function.
He replaced the control relay and placed the power wire to ground. Customer installed direct short.
In another instance some moron built himself a interference 22re.
He's got bent valves.
Very high performance.
On another occasion I got a jeep in which one caliper had drove the pad right through one side of the rotor and into the "fins" radio was cranked. Owner was clueless.
Then theres the $300 tire shop alloys that dont fit right and have locking nuts with no key.
Just yesterday I had a customer in a passat. They bought a passat.
Then theres the stop leak people.
Do yourself a favor and don't freaking put stop leak in your radiator. Hey why'd my Hester quit working?
Then theres the idiots. Who bolt on non approved "performance" garbage and cant smog their car. They try and convince me I'm an idiot for not "hot smogging" but now the hot smog guy is gone and so are their stock components. These people will never pass a legit smog again.
Their cars and trucks eventually get impounded...
Nitrous oxide on a 100k motor.
"This mod is legit, I saw it on you tube."
No it's not guy...
I commonly see aftermarket air cleaner setups (or even stock ones sometimes) that leak fine dirt... Very high performance...
I'm about out of time...