CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
Spray some PB blaster in it. If its been sitting for a while its probably got some corrosion in there.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Does that mean the ARB bumper doesn't have them either? Seems like the ironman is a direct copy of that design
Diff Kraken
SILVER Star
Nah... the ARB bumper allows for the OEM recovery points to remain, or the ARB recovery points to go in their place.
CakeMountain
SILVER Star
Got some new parts to install this weekend.
Timing belt time for the Miata. Going to be putting it on the market soon if anyone is interested. Turbo quick.
Built a wood top fitted to the top of the Bronco drawer in truck this weekend to mount my fridge. I'm waiting on a slide to come in the mail and then I need to figure out getting power to it. I'm still not sure exactly how I want to do that, either AGM or LiPO4. Also want to get a few other circuits in there for some lights. I'm also not sure about the other box next to it, having a drawer for organization is nice but those 2 together take up an awful lot of space.
You could build a cabined with quick disconnects and use as needed. I did that once. I had U bots that would drop down flush when non needed, then when I put in a drawer I had locking clamps (like on swingouts) that would anchor it down. Looks great so far.
Nice fit! How about the Dometic PLB? It's lighter and portable so you can bring it inside in case of power outages or parties in the basement.
I'm going to get some T-nuts to put on the bottom side of the plywood. That way I can bolt the fridge slide (and box if I decide to keep it) to it which should make for easy removal of the bolts. The flat top platform keeps things usable outside of this.
Nice fit! How about the Dometic PLB? It's lighter and portable so you can bring it inside in case of power outages or parties in the basement.
That's an option that I was also looking at and the Dometic brand one seems to have the best form factor for me. I have the smallest Anker one that I ended up getting basically for free (because Amazon screwed up) but that only ran the fridge for 18 hours in the winter which isn't enough. I do wonder if the weather being around freezing didn't help the capacity though. My issue is the form factor of a lot of those isn't that great to fit in a corner of the truck somewhere but not having it tied to the vehicle is a big plus.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Run a 2,4 or 6 gauge wire from your battery back there and tie it off with a 120 amp Anderson connector and you can build a power point back there to either run your gear, charge it there or distribute it to a set up you can remove for your day to day driving.
I like the idea of quick disconnects on the gear to free up the back for groceries/dogs/ect.
I like the idea of quick disconnects on the gear to free up the back for groceries/dogs/ect.
Yeah but charging a LiPo4 battery requires a DC/DC charger or I can just charge off the AC port when the car is running if I get a portable pack. Don't want to use my starter battery to charge anything when the car isn't running
Out with the old
In with the new
In with the new
Good idea. Please put a fuse or circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible to protect that wire. Without a fuse/breaker, if that wire shorts to ground there will be an instant fire.
This test was done for a class to demonstrate why fuses are our friends.
The power source was a 12V 100Ah battery.
This is what an 18 gauge wire looks like 2 seconds into a short circuit.
This is what it looks like at 4 seconds.
Here is a wire gauge chart to determine the size of the wire needed based on the current draw and the size of the fuse/breaker to protect the wire.
Hope this helps.
Ughhhhh. The muffler has a small air leak at the seam when I cover the pipe. Frustrating. I’ll have to run a bead on it I guess.
Diff Kraken
SILVER Star
It might not even be a big deal. Its post cats obviously... I doubt its causing any issues. I think as long as no air is getting in pre cat/o2 sensor its fine. Anyway... the rattle is gone completely and the 0420 code is gone.See @emorth 's post above... hook up a 12V 100Ah battery to the muffler and it will weld itself
Weld or repair it now while it is clean metal. It will not pass State Inspection later and it will be rusty metal to deal with. Much easier now. FYI
I need a a tank for my welder. I’m over flux-core. I much prefer gas. Might shop around for a little cart and tank.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Or just make sure to drive thru those sniff testers when you need inspection
Haha, nah, I’ll weld it up. I’m just excited my kerosene heater will be here tomorrow! Time to warm up this garage and get the blue fox all sorted out…… then look for a 60 project to trade for 
