Builds 1997 HZJ77HV-PEU Build (Grey Poupon) (1 Viewer)

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I think it looks correct? mine was still all working but was a little sloppy. Found one at a decent price, just took like 30+ days for shipping.

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Ok This has been a really fun project so far. The geometry on the front door cards is pretty involved. I’m also guessing the reason Toyota and a lot other manufactures use glorified cardboard as a base for the cards is they can bend and give. Because with all the little holes, fittings it’s been a challenge nailing the dimensions.

I’m not one to listen to reason or toss in my deluxe scheel-mann towl just yet!

I need to adjust some of the clip holes and I think I got it. Man I hope the passenger side is a mirror image of this side. Otherwise, I just might poke my eyes out. Getting pretty close.

front cut.jpg



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I sorta like the bare metal look; I know that is crazy. But I think powder coating in the body color might be nice and practical, but only with the hidden clip things that you used on the rear panels. This is very interesting!
 
I sorta like the bare metal look; I know that is crazy. But I think powder coating in the body color might be nice and practical, but only with the hidden clip things that you used on the rear panels. This is very interesting!
I was thinking the exact same thing!

However... My recent quest to quiet the cab has me thinking this would be going the wrong way? But if aesthetics and long lasting dictate?

BARE METAL FTW! 🤣
 
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Put the sound deadening material on the BACK of the panel. I will bet it will be just as effective. And you will have about 3mm of a gap if you use those clips rather than through-holes, and you can fill it with that. I'd love to see you try it. Noico material from amazon is an inexpensive option and I've found it very effective. Worth it just as an experiment IMHO. (Send me a pair of panels for my pickup and I gladly will give it a shot!) In all seriousness, once you have your CAD files done, if you are able to share them, it may be possible for me to have the panels made here in Dubai. I think there are a couple of places here that do that.
 
well it's really hard to describe? I'm having trouble putting my finger on it? but I think "gray" nails it? Yea it's for sure gray. it's definitely V1, I need to think on it a bit. I should have put a spot of glue up on top where the handle is for sure. Clips make a difference because you can see some of them in places.... more on that below.

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I needed to button up the mount for RockMan, he was just flopping around in there before so I made a 25th anniversary Mt. Fuji mounting bracket for him and he is now connected to the door nice and solid.
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Clips yes... well you need them. The red clips are the same ones they use in 4runners. The yellow clips are a bit beefier and you can see them. My conclusion after using both clips is the yellow ones work much better in general. So it's a tradeoff between yea I can see the clip profile thru the marine vinyl sometimes but it's land cruiser solid. Also, when using the yellow clips make sure your sure, they are much harder to get off.


IMG_3634.JPG



yellow clips are the way.jpg
 
Put the sound deadening material on the BACK of the panel. I will bet it will be just as effective. And you will have about 3mm of a gap if you use those clips rather than through-holes, and you can fill it with that. I'd love to see you try it. Noico material from amazon is an inexpensive option and I've found it very effective. Worth it just as an experiment IMHO. (Send me a pair of panels for my pickup and I gladly will give it a shot!) In all seriousness, once you have your CAD files done, if you are able to share them, it may be possible for me to have the panels made here in Dubai. I think there are a couple of places here that do that.

Well here is the thing, the rear door cards are made differenly than the fronts. The little metal stand offs on the rear door keep a slight gap. Toyota filled that 3mm gap in the rear with plastic shims, then stretched the vinyl over it. So it looks like the cards are flush on the slides but... they are really not. I ordered some weather stripping for my back doors, just not here yet. I'm sure some from big box store would also work just fine.

Anyways the front door cards are pretty flush, in fact you don't really have a lot to play with. so I don't think you could just cover the insides of the door cards. if you did you would not get positive connections with the clips. Now... if your going to use mechanical fasteners... like say M6

just cut out the shape of the door card, riv nut into the clip holes and use something like this to then transfer the locations onto the door card. This was going to be my original plan. The set screw cone deals make it pretty easy to locate the hole dims, just a slight tap with the tonya harding and your good.



set screw cone.jpg
BUTTON SOCKET HEAD CAP.jpg
 
I needed to button up the mount for RockMan, he was just flopping around in there before so I made a 25th anniversary Mt. Fuji mounting bracket for him and he is now connected to the door nice and solid.
View attachment 3212824
I hope I'm not too late for Mt. Fuji Rockman questions .... but do you know which wire colors got tapped into inside your door harness? I don't need details nor descriptions, just a list of colors that got tapped for the keyless.
 
I hope I'm not too late for Mt. Fuji Rockman questions .... but do you know which wire colors got tapped into inside your door harness? I don't need details nor descriptions, just a list of colors that got tapped for the keyless.


this was not enough?
 
the journey of 1609.34 km starts with a single step...

I finally broke down and started making size E prints of the front door cards. This was a good way to do it, Fusion 360 has a nice feature where you can create a full sized 1:1 pdf and export it. You can then take it to FedEx and print it on their plotter for $10. I took me 3x adjustments on the plotter to get it really nailed. it needs to be very close to perfect to snap in on all clips. I would also like to point out there are 19 clips, yes 19. 4runners have 7 on their doors.


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It’s amazingly satisfying to clunk all the clips in place, not sure I will be able to get the card off but… that is a different problem. The gap is nice and tight all the way around the door. Also very satisfying.

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I also got both fancy pants seats installed on the sleepydad custom suspension robot adapter brackets (SCSRAB for short)

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Now I need to get working on getting this thing somplace? Need to power the seat heaters and a head unit. I have used a BCDC charger in my 4Runner. RedArc is top notch good stuff IMO. This will be a good way to create a 25 amp 12V power source.

Thinking I might sacrafice the glove box. because it's not really that useful as it comes from toyota. I mean really what were they thinking?
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Looks amazing on the door cards. I'd love to have a set cut.

Some Toyotas had a factory 24VDC->12VDC converter behind the glove box many have them there aftermarket. I am also planning to use a Redarc 12v charger to a 12v battery for 12V needs as well. I am hoping to mount it on the firewall behind the glovebox/dash.

You might try popping out the glovebox insert. I think there might be room behind it so you can keep a marginally un-useful glove box. There are some relays and electronics up there already and seems to me like there should be plenty of room, but it has been a while since I had everything in place and able to measure exactly how much room is there.
 
Those door cards are practically art! Nicely done!

The oem 12v converter has served me well for head unit. And my low buck victron has been working great as DC to DC 24->12 converter. But redarc would be the creme de la creme for sure!
 
Looks amazing on the door cards. I'd love to have a set cut.

Some Toyotas had a factory 24VDC->12VDC converter behind the glove box many have them there aftermarket. I am also planning to use a Redarc 12v charger to a 12v battery for 12V needs as well. I am hoping to mount it on the firewall behind the glovebox/dash.

You might try popping out the glovebox insert. I think there might be room behind it so you can keep a marginally un-useful glove box. There are some relays and electronics up there already and seems to me like there should be plenty of room, but it has been a while since I had everything in place and able to measure exactly how much room is there.

I'm going to pull the rear door cards tomorrow and start the process. I will post all the CAD files once I have them all tested. pretty sure places like send cut send.com can do 1/8 hardboard for pretty cheap? Each panel in AL is about 70$ just for the material. so it's not a cheap route but these should be darn near indestructible.
 
Those door cards are practically art! Nicely done!

The oem 12v converter has served me well for head unit. And my low buck victron has been working great as DC to DC 24->12 converter. But redarc would be the creme de la creme for sure!

I have been using this little cheapy thing. I stole the connection off the sig lighter, it's ACC based so kind of nice it just trips on when the truck is running. for power to phone it's fine.

Amazon product ASIN B0BCP6WPBD
and this little guy plugged into that power source. so I can know how fast I might be going?

Amazon product ASIN B0BJ2GWCKY
 
I have been using this little cheapy thing. I stole the connection off the sig lighter, it's ACC based so kind of nice it just trips on when the truck is running. for power to phone it's fine.

Amazon product ASIN B0BCP6WPBD
and this little guy plugged into that power source. so I can know how fast I might be going?

Amazon product ASIN B0BJ2GWCKY
I did similar in my BJ73. I had it wired on permanent plus to have power when camping. Not a good idea!
All DC DC converters draw a permanent load. This caused my batteries frequently to drain down to 23.xV when the truck sat for a week. After 2 years I have weak batteries now.
Also those cheap converters may not work well with stereo. Mine worked in the beginning but eventually quit. Was hard to find out it was not the antenna but the power source causing the stereo to not find any stations any more.

I'm back to pure 24V now.
Most appliances work on USB. Stereo and fridge and a working light are available in 24V with no extra cost.
The only device I can think of that might need 12V is a CB radio. For unexpected 12V needs I have such a cheap 100W converter in my box, to plug in the cig lighter, if needed.
Cheers Ralf
 
OK at long last I got the rear doors nailed down and added a sexy flexy net thing. Mine had ash trays but I can't see much use for kids and ash trays? So this will let them have a place for their snacks storage.

I also took some time and did a 80,150,220,320,400,500,1000,2000 grit sequence with my festool ROS sander. I used to do pretty high end wood working so I have done some smoothing work in my time. The aluminum gets down to a nice low gloss luster. I'm still going to cover them up but I was just curious to see what it would look like. More on this later in the post.

Amazon product ASIN B07H653ZBZ

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I do have 1 piece of aluminum left over that was for backups and whoops stuff but I actually pulled off the backs without any of that stuff happening this time. I'm going to try and see if I just put the primary hole for the clip and some of these bumper style push pins and see what it looks like? I'm curious because if it looks ok I guess I could see doing just raw aluminum ? It would certainly be easy to clean up. sure, it would get scratched but that is just cool patina.


Amazon product ASIN B09PGNZ7NK

I promised I would post all the .stl files and I will I need to put together maybe a video and talk about door card stuff just in case somebody else wants to do it. There are some things to know before you leap off the cliff. I think it's going to turn out great and so far it's been worth the effort. being able to service the inside of the doors without having to worry about the 25 year old door card falling apart makes it worth IMO.
 

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