What did you do on your 70 series today? (28 Viewers)

[FJBen]

I did cringe a bit with the hose clamps on the turbo pressure side silicone fittings and the fuel filter hose....
aaannnnd the RED injection lines

but i was trying not to jump all over anyone about it....
little shiit, could just be for the fit up

Wow I didn’t even notice the red injector lines And the hoses. Apparently to focused on the worm gear clamps

Me personally…I don’t like different colored engines from factory, usually don’t mind greys or blacks though. Not that they have to be concours or anything. Mine sure isn’t.

 

[bj70bc]

full confession....
i had to use a hose clamp on the turbo outlet as nothing else would fit in there.... dont tell anyone

 

[TonyP]

In the marine world these AWAB 316 stainless clamps are used all the time, kind of one step below a stainless t-bolt, but t-bolts are over kill for many applications. Smooth inner surface and rolled edges, never corrode and I've never had one fail. Or breaks stuff they are used on.

View attachment 3203974

I've used these in applications much more severe than the engine bay of a vehicle, and I've used these in my trucks too when the OEM ones looked worn out. I agree those in the engine photo posted above are inferior, but what clamp is correct for the application that has caused so much consternation? Learning experience, so no elitist, smart ass, uninformative responses needed.

But I don't mind smart ass informative answers

A quality worm drive is sufficient in most cases. Of course staying OEM is ideal. Especially, if you live in a salty area where constant tension clamps can rust out and snap. Turbo charge pipes, t-clamps or spring clamps are my preference.

Decent video:

 

[Cesark10]

Buenas..

 

[bj70bc]

mba'e la porte dude

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

A work in progress, I presume.






Juan

 

[bj70bc]

just greased up the 70, had to remove the two zerks in the rear u joints as i couldnt get onto the zerk with the gun, its too tight in there where the driveshaft sits.
greased the steering and suspension too

replaced all the clamps on the fuel lines with fuel injection bolt clamps, trying to chase a small air leak somewhere.
bled the fuel lines, though im suspicions of the bleeder leaking air at the fuel filter now that ive looked a bit closer

had to deal with some rub spots on my intercooler pipe runs over the oil fill cap and by the power steering pump lines

dumped some water wetter in the coolant just because

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Working on getting RS3200 keyless entry (not security) installed on my 77. @Blomdala was my inspiration for this.

Full guide will be posted once complete.

 

[sleepydad69]

Working on getting RS3200 keyless entry (not security) installed on my 77. @Blomdala was my inspiration for this.

Full guide will be posted once complete.

View attachment 3206261

Where on gods green earth did you find a that

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Where on gods green earth did you find a that

You know that I bought a spare for you, right?

j/k eBay is full of them, though. The issue is finding the connectors and finding the wiring diagrams that match. I have it all now finally. The post will have a full guide with part numbers, sources, and diagrams.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

While waiting for a different RS3200 module to arrive (Toyota made a million variations of them), I put some work into installing the rear heater. In doing this, I found 1000 MUD posts on DELETING the rear heater and exactly 1 post on ADDING a rear heater. So, I guess this will bring that total up to 2 now.

My truck didn't come with rear heat, so I cut the hole in the floor. I extrapolated measurements based on photos from MUD. Got pretty dang close. Off maybe 3mm.

I found a rear heater off Yahoo Auctions super cheap, but I quickly realized it was a 12V edition. So, I found a 24V motor on PartSouq (87104-90A04) and a 24V resistor from CityRacer (989337-6620). The resistor was the right part, but it was too many ohms. The fan would not start on its own in HIGH. So I installed a 12V resistor from NAPA (ECH BR14), and all is well. Strange.

There was a spot in the steering column relay bank just waiting for the 4 prong rear heater relay (Niles relay 4CT-1M)

I moved the rear heater switch up to the front (Connector Experts CE4018 and CE4337).

Then, I installed a USB charger in the back (Blue Sea Systems 1039). I chose to tap into the rear lumbar power circuit. It's fused and has plenty of juice.

Next up is to run the lines from the rear heater core to the engine block. If someone could snap some photos of where the lines enter/exit the engine block, I would be grateful. The drawings are easy to find, but they are a bit unclear.

 

[bj70bc]

While waiting for a different RS3200 module to arrive (Toyota made a million variations of them), I put some work into installing the rear heater. In doing this, I found 1000 MUD posts on DELETING the rear heater and exactly 1 post on ADDING a rear heater. So, I guess this will bring that total up to 2 now.

My truck didn't come with rear heat, so I cut the hole in the floor. I extrapolated measurements based on photos from MUD. Got pretty dang close. Off maybe 3mm.

View attachment 3208250

I found a rear heater off Yahoo Auctions super cheap, but I quickly realized it was a 12V edition. So, I found a 24V motor on PartSouq (87104-90A04) and a 24V resistor from CityRacer (989337-6620). The resistor was the right part, but it was too many ohms. The fan would not start on its own in HIGH. So I installed a 12V resistor from NAPA (ECH BR14), and all is well. Strange.

There was a spot in the steering column relay bank just waiting for the 4 prong rear heater relay (Niles relay 4CT-1M)

View attachment 3208261

I moved the rear heater switch up to the front (Connector Experts CE4018 and CE4337).

View attachment 3208282

Then, I installed a USB charger in the back (Blue Sea Systems 1039). I chose to tap into the rear lumbar power circuit. It's fused and has plenty of juice.

View attachment 3208272

View attachment 3208284

Next up is to run the lines from the rear heater core to the engine block. If someone could snap some photos of where the lines enter/exit the engine block, I would be grateful. The drawings are easy to find, but they are a bit unclear.

the rear heat is nice, i fixed mine when i did the head,
you should have a water port or two on the head, my feed was at the front of the head and the return t'd into the line attaching to the water pump
do you have a pic of your engine bay?

 

[Bogan]

Spent two weeks touring through the Mojave. The first week was just us solo then we were joined by some friends: another 75 series, a GX470, and a 4R. So many good spots. Lots of solitude, stunning vistas, dust in every crack (just did laundry in Palm Springs,) and got to use the Webasto a bunch. Suddenly those 5º nights ain't so bad!

My heart will forever be in these dry and arid places.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Prepped the concrete where the carport is starting to go up tomorrow to cover the old girl.

 

[joekatana]

While waiting for a different RS3200 module to arrive (Toyota made a million variations of them), I put some work into installing the rear heater. In doing this, I found 1000 MUD posts on DELETING the rear heater and exactly 1 post on ADDING a rear heater. So, I guess this will bring that total up to 2 now.

My truck didn't come with rear heat, so I cut the hole in the floor. I extrapolated measurements based on photos from MUD. Got pretty dang close. Off maybe 3mm.

View attachment 3208250

I found a rear heater off Yahoo Auctions super cheap, but I quickly realized it was a 12V edition. So, I found a 24V motor on PartSouq (87104-90A04) and a 24V resistor from CityRacer (989337-6620). The resistor was the right part, but it was too many ohms. The fan would not start on its own in HIGH. So I installed a 12V resistor from NAPA (ECH BR14), and all is well. Strange.

There was a spot in the steering column relay bank just waiting for the 4 prong rear heater relay (Niles relay 4CT-1M)

View attachment 3208261

I moved the rear heater switch up to the front (Connector Experts CE4018 and CE4337).

View attachment 3208282

Then, I installed a USB charger in the back (Blue Sea Systems 1039). I chose to tap into the rear lumbar power circuit. It's fused and has plenty of juice.

View attachment 3208272

View attachment 3208284

Next up is to run the lines from the rear heater core to the engine block. If someone could snap some photos of where the lines enter/exit the engine block, I would be grateful. The drawings are easy to find, but they are a bit unclear.

I think the heater has no extra fittings in the block but rather uses T connectors in the existing piping , I have a hzj73 sitting out back with a rear heater and a removed engine so I can take a closer look at that if you want .

 

[ATL Cruiser]

I think the heater has no extra fittings in the block but rather uses T connectors in the existing piping , I have a hzj73 sitting out back with a rear heater and a removed engine so I can take a closer look at that if you want .

Thank you. I really appreciate that and @bj70bc as well.

I believe I have it sorted teeing into the front heater core lines right at the firewall with a pair of these fittings.

 

[OGBeno]

87248-95400 will supersede to 87248-60460

 

[ATL Cruiser]

87248-95400 will supersede to 87248-60460

Thank you. I didn't see that superseded from brass to plastic. Those are much more readily available.

Now I'm scared to open this can of worms. Which heater hose connectors are better - brass, stainless, or plastic?

 

[OGBeno]

Splitting hairs. Just order the PN and be done with it.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Brass is going to corrode, plastic will get brittle... either will probably last a couple decades though. Especially, if they're high quality and you maintain your coolant i.e. flush it per the maintenance schedule. (100k miles first, 50k miles after that).