afgman786
SILVER Star
If you go Tundra swap you can get chromoly CVs which will be stronger and less likely to break.
Post your wheeling damage pics (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter JBHorne
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
supercarrera
I Like LEDs
To me it looks like both front wheels were spinning, albeit slowly. You even started to slide backwards before what kind of looks like the front passenger getting some traction.
That was my thought as well from the video.
There likely was some instantaneous torque applied to that CV joint even though it’s not an obvious abuse. The front wheels were slipping, truck slides backwards, wheel grips, bearing cage takes a very brief shock load and gives out.
Glad you were able to hack off the CV and get off the trail. Did you just lock the CDL and drive off or did you unbolt the front driveshaft too?
Wondering how hard it is to break the CV shaft off the outer cage, for someone who didn’t have a grinder or saws all handy.
What wheels are you running? I tried to figure it out but I cannot find anything that looks like those black rhino's in a 5x150.
Would be interesting if you were able to get a measurement of your fender to wheel hub as a reference for droop travel?
Here you go but it’s a more expensive way to go vs. a Tundra swap. However another member @GreatWhiteRoamer has this setup and seems to like it and he’s running full 35”s easily. He’s traveling with it through SA.
Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2021 LAND CRUISER 200 EXPEDITION SERIES LOWER CONTROL ARMS - KDSS COMPATIBLE | TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION
Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2021 LAND CRUISER 200 EXPEDITION SERIES LOWER CONTROL ARMS - KDSS COMPATIBLE
www.chaosfab.com
Pretty sure you could do the entire Tundra swap for the cost of those arms.
All we did was cut out the section of axle and use the CDL to get off the trail and home. Crazy coincidence we had a cordless grinder with cutoff wheels!
My OCD and I REALLY wanted a black wheel that offered a removable rock guard that could be replaced, or simply removed and sanded or removed and painted, etc. After weeks of searching, this was the ONLY one I could find in our bolt pattern. I ordered 7 total in order to match my M101A2 trailer. It took 9 months AFTER paying to acquire these guys. They also seemed to have gone up $100 each from when I first found them.
DUGGER
#html-body [data-pb-style=KG5IA8Q]{justify-content:flex-start;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll}Meet the wheel ...
www.blackrhinowheels.com
I really appreciate everyone being will to analyze this with me. I will work on these measurements next week (hopefully Monday) when I am back in town.
Sweet looking wheel @YellowJacket. Would love to see some photos mounted on your rig.
I can get some better ones later.
Those look awesome! Wish I would have seen these just two days ago when I ordered these...
I was close to getting those.
Same for me.... barley any throttle at full droop and
....Exploded inner and sheared mid shaft. I didn't have a grinder so I strapped it down. I think I was getting 28 degrees on factory cv at full droop...(guess that the just over the threshold)... according to rcv engineers I can run 32 degrees now... but I think I'll limit strap it at 28 degrees to be on the safe side
.
I would like to hear more about these CV’s in how they compare to OEM. Sure looks pretty, how much are these. Hopefully these are cure for those who trail hard.Same for me.... barley any throttle at full droop and
View attachment 3186147
View attachment 3186148
View attachment 3186149
View attachment 3186150
FWIW..
breaking on the droop side when you are over extending the CV angle down is not surprising... doesn't take much torque to shatter the cage.
They really cannot be that strong because of the design.
The shaft is normally from torque over time twisting the shaft (when the wheel is spinning and the CV is lined up and then getting traction, when you install the new ones draw a line down the center of the shaft to monitor it, one of my defender ones was spiraled all the way around when I replaced it.
I would remove the spacers and probably limit the angle to a 1-2 degrees under spec (28 degrees), since you are lifted 2.5".. anyway measure it and limit accordingly.
Really the only way to to get more usable droop is longer arms and CV's..
breaking on the droop side when you are over extending the CV angle down is not surprising... doesn't take much torque to shatter the cage.
They really cannot be that strong because of the design.
The shaft is normally from torque over time twisting the shaft (when the wheel is spinning and the CV is lined up and then getting traction, when you install the new ones draw a line down the center of the shaft to monitor it, one of my defender ones was spiraled all the way around when I replaced it.
I would remove the spacers and probably limit the angle to a 1-2 degrees under spec (28 degrees), since you are lifted 2.5".. anyway measure it and limit accordingly.
Really the only way to to get more usable droop is longer arms and CV's..
To much skinny…
A collective wince was heard. And is there video?
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Are you on a Tundra front end?
Were you hopping/skipping along?
