Builds Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto (1 Viewer)

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I do not condone or endorse this kind of reckless behavior….
 
After that Xmas tree trip, it became very apparent a lot of cold air comes in. Decided to address a couple items. First, I readjusted the cowl vent because I stuck a flashlight pointing down into it, closed the vent and looked under the dash and there was a huge gap. Got it snugged you tight so no mate air coming in there when closed. Also a couple missing grommets that were in place, just pushed out of the holes so got them back in.
Next, I took a look at the blower fan. Mine isn’t stock, was replaced long ago with a similar size unit, but I think the squirrel cage fan is a lot smaller than stock. Opening is nearly 5” and the cage in there is only 4-1/8”. I picked up a new fan from Napa I’d read about: 655-1747. I’m going to return it because it seems to only turn about the same rpm as the one in there. I have no way to measure this, just seems about the same. It’s also way louder. It needs modified to fit and my current fan wheel would also need modified to fit it. Didn’t want to go through all that and end up the same. So I took my existing blower motor apart, cleaned it, soldered new wires in and put it back. Blows about the same.

I've been working on rebuilding my blower box. I have purchased a Spal 001-A53-03S, which isn't the normal "swap", but it seems like it would provide more air. I'm swapping in a vintage air system but keeping the stock blower box, which is the source of the inspiration. I haven't gotten everything wired in yet, but hooking the blower to 12V works well.

Cage size is a pretty close match with the original blower.

I removed the housing and roughly milled an adapter plate for the stock blower box.

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Not finished yet though so no determination on how well it is going to go.
 
I've been working on rebuilding my blower box. I have purchased a Spal 001-A53-03S, which isn't the normal "swap", but it seems like it would provide more air. I'm swapping in a vintage air system but keeping the stock blower box, which is the source of the inspiration. I haven't gotten everything wired in yet, but hooking the blower to 12V works well.

Cage size is a pretty close match with the original blower.

I removed the housing and roughly milled an adapter plate for the stock blower box.

View attachment 3198860

View attachment 3198861

Not finished yet though so no determination on how well it is going to go.
Is this for your 78? I’m working on a 1970 so the fan and housing are smaller. But what’s the diameter of that fan wheel?

Thanks for posting.
 
Is this for your 78? I’m working on a 1970 so the fan and housing are smaller. But what’s the diameter of that fan wheel?

Thanks for posting.
Indeed, '78. I didn't even realize there was a blower box change in years there, but it makes sense. Diameter of the wheel on the Spal is 127mm, height is 86mm.

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I've been working on rebuilding my blower box. I have purchased a Spal 001-A53-03S, which isn't the normal "swap", but it seems like it would provide more air. I'm swapping in a vintage air system but keeping the stock blower box, which is the source of the inspiration. I haven't gotten everything wired in yet, but hooking the blower to 12V works well.

Cage size is a pretty close match with the original blower.

I removed the housing and roughly milled an adapter plate for the stock blower box.

View attachment 3198860

View attachment 3198861

Not finished yet though so no determination on how well it is going to go.
Would love to see how you tie this into the vintage air system.
 
Would love to see how you tie this into the vintage air system.
Me too! I have an idea to tie a better fan and an evaporator into a modified stock duct, then run it through the factory heater. May not be the optimal setup for cooling but should make it more bearable and look really factory. But this fan I have isn’t up to that task.
 
I have been gathering some parts for an alternator upgrade and reading lots of threads and finally decided to tackle it this morning after kids were done opening Christmas presents.
I am doing a conversion to an alternator from a 3FE (88-92? FJ62). This will get me 80 amps potential and an internal voltage regulator. I ordered a reman Denso alternator and a harness from @Coolerman to connect my harness to this alternator. I also ordered a fusible link from him as well since my 1970 didn’t come with one.
There are some concerns with adding the 80 amp: jumping a dead battery and allowing the alternator to charge the battery can fry the amp gauge and the fusible link. Also ensuring your existing wires can handle the increase (proper size). I have Pertronix, the Sniper, maybe AC in the future, one of @thecrazygreek bluetooth radios to install and the 8274. The 80 amp may be overkill but the system will only draw what it needs.

The install…
Well, I was sent a Hitachi alternator, not a Denso, so I sent it back for a different one and got another Hitachi. I stopped caring at that point and decided to go with the Hitachi. The difference is the Hitachi has a different plug than the Denso, but comes with an adapter harness. I didn’t want to use the adapter so I took apart Coolerman’s harness and swapped the wires into the Hitachi plastic plug. Took a bit of reading to ensure I was matching wires to the right spots but here it is:
Pic stolen from @doug720 from a different thread

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So I made sure the right wires were where they needed to be in the plug, then connect to my harness.
The yellow wire in Coolerman’s harness goes to a charge light, which I don’t have so the end was heat shrinked over and taped up when done. The black/yellow wire goes to the white/green wire from my harness. The white/black wire is a ground and not needed, but I grounded it to my alternator case anyway. Wrapped all this up in Tesa tape and moving on.

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I also used the fan and pulley from my original alternator on the 80 amper.

At the voltage regulator end, I grounded the white/black to the firewall using one of the VR mount screws. Then connect the white/green that comes from alternator to the white/red that comes from ignition. Wrapped in Tesa tape, forget to take a pic and done.

For the fusible link, on the big white wire to the starter, I spliced in the link, heat shrinked it and done. No pics of that either.

Nice, steady 14.5 volts at (high) idle.
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Excellent upgrade! @Coolerman always makes such a nice product.
 
Started making a new door limiter for the driver side today and welded new threads on the passenger side. Need to weld in a new piece on the driver door since it got ripped off long ago. Then I’ll have limiters and my passengers will stop flinging the door open into the fender!

Not the prettiest but I’ll blast them and spray them pewter and no one will ever notice them again.
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Me too! I have an idea to tie a better fan and an evaporator into a modified stock duct, then run it through the factory heater. May not be the optimal setup for cooling but should make it more bearable and look really factory. But this fan I have isn’t up to that task.
I am using the vintage air heater/evaporator but have removed the blower. Instead, I've re-routed the heating and A/C lines around the stock blower, and plan on building a custom tunnel between the stock blower location and the vintage air unit. It won't look factory, but it will be functional. In the northwest I feel like it is critical to be able to pull fresh air to defrost the windows vs the vintage air setup, which I have never liked the idea of only having only recirculating air. I've got a slightly different engine setup, but this should work irrespective. I'll post pics on my build thread soon (still sorting out some firewall/fitment issues at the moment and trying to get the battery box installed).
 
I am using the vintage air heater/evaporator but have removed the blower. Instead, I've re-routed the heating and A/C lines around the stock blower, and plan on building a custom tunnel between the stock blower location and the vintage air unit. It won't look factory, but it will be functional. In the northwest I feel like it is critical to be able to pull fresh air to defrost the windows vs the vintage air setup, which I have never liked the idea of only having only recirculating air. I've got a slightly different engine setup, but this should work irrespective. I'll post pics on my build thread soon (still sorting out some firewall/fitment issues at the moment and trying to get the battery box installed).
I’d love to see it. I completely agree about the fresh air; sounds like we are thinking of a similar solution. I am not a fan of the current vintage air louvers design for the 40. Looks like an afterthought like it just doesn’t belong there.
 
Finished my limiters.
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Had to patch this and make a new bracket for the driver door. Forgot pics of finished product.
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And I got a proper fan and wheel for my heater blower. Way stronger! Thanks @MDH33 and @Tankota for the parts. I did some experimenting with a few different blowers and wheels. I’ll post up more later. I know, need better washers.
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Glad that blower worked out! Did you find another resistor for it?

I did that same repair on my door limiter last year. Tough to weld that torn metal but I made it work.

Have you found any Capri Blue in a can for touchups? Or do you use a spray gun?
 
Glad that blower worked out! Did you find another resistor for it?

I did that same repair on my door limiter last year. Tough to weld that torn metal but I made it work.

Have you found any Capri Blue in a can for touchups? Or do you use a spray gun?
My resistor was good, just no fan.

I had a batch of capri blue mixed up and put in spray cans but I used it all up so I need to get more. I used a key Lon color that is not a great match but it’s a small enough patch I’m ok with it.
 
@Skreddy @V8FJ4078
 
I had time today to work on my radio install. Got a Bluetooth unit from @thecrazygreek and some Kenwood speakers. I wanted a semi hidden look so made some brackets and mounted the speakers under the dash above the kick vent, keeping the vent fully functional and still easy to reach by foot. Sprayed the brackets with rustoleum satin nickel and I’m pretty pleased. They were a pain to install because I was trying to use existing firewall holes for the inner mounts but I like the end result. Speakers don’t sound great but that’s likely because they are cheap, $30 specials and I really don’t know much about car audio.
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I had time today to work on my radio install. Got a Bluetooth unit from @thecrazygreek and some Kenwood speakers. I wanted a semi hidden look so made some brackets and mounted the speakers under the dash above the kick vent, keeping the vent fully functional and still easy to reach by foot. Sprayed the brackets with rustoleum satin nickel and I’m pretty pleased. They were a pain to install because I was trying to use existing firewall holes for the inner mounts but I like the end result. Speakers don’t sound great but that’s likely because they are cheap, $30 specials and I really don’t know much about car audio. View attachment 3209544
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Looks great, and love your custom switch!! 👍🏻
Can you share a picture of your radio location, please?
 

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