1FZ Pre-Build Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jaymar
- Start date
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Has all gaskets directly associated with the engine, but not head gasket.
Also, not gaskets for typical bolt on ancillaries.
So things like water pump, thermostat, power steering pump o-ring.
Won't have PCV grommet, won't have rubber hoses
FIPG
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks! Though I believe it does include the head gasket…
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davidp14
SILVER Star
Has hg if it's this part #
This is a great thread btw. Lots of useful info
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According to @SNLC , the later part number includes head gasket.
If you use part number for your year, it won't
Ya learn something new every day!
I would probably pull the pistons and make sure no oil control rings are gummed up. If ok put back in.
Just put the dam thing in and run it !!!
- Thread starter
- #29
Yeah, well, swapping engines is like a thousand-banana job for me, and I don't wanna have to do it again any time soon. So I'll do what I can (afford) now to ensure a good run...
Timing chain is probably fine, but new guides would be nice. Don't want to replace too much but a thorough inspection is important I think.
geologic
SILVER Star
I bought that 143k one from Musthave; he removed it from a customer’s 80 to do an LS swap. It hasn’t had any work since new so I’m going to take the head off and measure the height difference in the head compared to my rebuilt head. Also want to reseal it too to bottom with a head job and have it as a back up for the 5 80s my extended family now drive.
- Thread starter
- #32
Seems like we really are in the same place with these engines. I'm told it's a good idea to measure the pistons themselves, change rings if pistons in spec, lightly hone bores, polish crank if in spec and add new stock-size bearings. More than I'd like to do and no idea what it costs (will talk to machine shop/s this coming week), but if that's the diff between another 50-100k and another 200k+, it deserves a hard look. Can they hone the bores or deck the block without a complete teardown? Congrats on the Cruiser family.
No. You're all the way in at that point. May as well go the whole hog
- Thread starter
- #34
Budget allowing...
a hone job should be reasonable. Need to do that after pulling out the pistons.
It's easy to spend other people's money. Having said that, I have to admit that I am one of those that errs on the side of, "As long as I'm in there, I might as well..." I can't think of a time that I've regretted spending the extra money doing as much as necessary to end up with the best possible product in the end, rather than doing things well enough for now, only to end up having to invest the labor and additional parts redoing something sooner than would have been necessary having gone whole hog in the first place.
- Thread starter
- #37
Just some dirty engine porn and a question while I wait...
Engine's former home...
Freshly pulled engine with tranny. My question: What the h*ll are all those lines snaking over the tranny. Anyone happen to have a parts list handy for lines and connectors etc.? Because they've already been cut away, and I'll want to replace them on the current tranny while the engine's out and I can (hopefully) reach them all. There appear to be a few lines on the other side as well...
Waiting on the freight company to call...
Feels like...
#
Engine's former home...
Freshly pulled engine with tranny. My question: What the h*ll are all those lines snaking over the tranny. Anyone happen to have a parts list handy for lines and connectors etc.? Because they've already been cut away, and I'll want to replace them on the current tranny while the engine's out and I can (hopefully) reach them all. There appear to be a few lines on the other side as well...
Waiting on the freight company to call...
Feels like...
#
And the crank. To hone with the crank in CAN be done, but not advisable. The amount of engine killing microscopic debris from a proper hone(ultimately it should only be a deglaze) is pretty hard to get cleaned out after, with crank installed.
Honing follows a bore job to get it to correct specs. Honing creates less heat than boring so it is more precise than boring.
Deglazing occurs when bores are within spec and installing new rings.
Engine block, to be done correctly, should be completely disassembled.
IMOP, install the used engine after all typical seals and gaskets are replaced as it’s easier out of the engine bay.
Yes, if you want peace of mind do the head gasket.
But tear down is not necessary. If you are going that far why not just do the original engine
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I agree with the "if you're going that far" part. But, I'm strange, I guess. While my engine is out I'd "have" to go through it completely. It's just me but buying a used engine would be "trust, but, verify: which is a rebuild. The exception would be if I'm selling the rig ASAP.And the crank. To hone with the crank in CAN be done, but not advisable. The amount of engine killing microscopic debris from a proper hone(ultimately it should only be a deglaze) is pretty hard to get cleaned out after, with crank installed.
Honing follows a bore job to get it to correct specs. Honing creates less heat than boring so it is more precise than boring.
Deglazing occurs when bores are within spec and installing new rings.
Engine block, to be done correctly, should be completely disassembled.
IMOP, install the used engine after all typical seals and gaskets are replaced as it’s easier out of the engine bay.
Yes, if you want peace of mind do the head gasket.
But tear down is not necessary. If you are going that far why not just do the original engine
Ok, I have to chime in here.
I am the guy that removed the engine from the donor, those pics are in my garage.
It is not my truck and I did not sell the engine, I only removed it (and I am putting in the 1hdft that is replacing it for the owner)
A few things you should know:
- All electrical connectors were unplugged cleanly from the engine. Do the same when you remove yours and it will all plug back in. You will likely break the 6 fuel injector connectors on your harness when you disconnect them, so be ready for that with replacements. This is also why the upper intake manifold and TB are only loosely bolted on, as they have to be removed to run your harness back through and make all the connections.
- The only thing "cut" was the exhaust pipes.
- All the "stuff" that runs to the trans is: dipstick tube, 2 vent hoses (that attach to the dipstick tube), 2 trans cooler lines., Kickdown cable and electrical harness. All of which are part of the (your) trans assembly and you reuse. They are not on the trans-less engine you are receiving.
- this engine ran great and quiet before removal, based on the short time I saw it.
That said, having done a head gasket and timing chain in the car on another one of these, and also being OCD about quality and reliability, I would personally do the following while I had it in front of me in a stand:
- install a new head gasket and bolts and have the head/valves checked at a machine shop and at a minimum install new stem seals.
- replace at least the timing chain guides, as they fail with age and it's a huge pita to do in the car. This will force you to reseal the oil pan which is another must do.
- oil pump reseal
- front and rear main seals
- water pump and hoses
- VC and spark plug gaskets
- PHH (already has the Good constant pressure clamps)
- rebuild injectors (easy to do now and not that expensive and great peace of mind)
- all new gaskets and seals (Toyota head gasket kit mentioned above)
- replace all vacuum hoses and test components under the upper intake manifold before reassembly.
- new fuel filter
I wouldn't worry about the bottom end and rotating assembly at this mileage.
Clean the piston tops of carbon when the head is off and inpect the block deck at the water passages for signs of corrosion.
It is a lot of work you have ahead to do this swap.
Put the extra time in while the new engine is on a stand in front of you to eliminate potential future likely problems or you are rolling the dice and leaving unknowns that could have been solved easily.
Regardless of how great it ran or how low mile it was, it's still a 1997 engine....
I am the guy that removed the engine from the donor, those pics are in my garage.
It is not my truck and I did not sell the engine, I only removed it (and I am putting in the 1hdft that is replacing it for the owner)
A few things you should know:
- All electrical connectors were unplugged cleanly from the engine. Do the same when you remove yours and it will all plug back in. You will likely break the 6 fuel injector connectors on your harness when you disconnect them, so be ready for that with replacements. This is also why the upper intake manifold and TB are only loosely bolted on, as they have to be removed to run your harness back through and make all the connections.
- The only thing "cut" was the exhaust pipes.
- All the "stuff" that runs to the trans is: dipstick tube, 2 vent hoses (that attach to the dipstick tube), 2 trans cooler lines., Kickdown cable and electrical harness. All of which are part of the (your) trans assembly and you reuse. They are not on the trans-less engine you are receiving.
- this engine ran great and quiet before removal, based on the short time I saw it.
That said, having done a head gasket and timing chain in the car on another one of these, and also being OCD about quality and reliability, I would personally do the following while I had it in front of me in a stand:
- install a new head gasket and bolts and have the head/valves checked at a machine shop and at a minimum install new stem seals.
- replace at least the timing chain guides, as they fail with age and it's a huge pita to do in the car. This will force you to reseal the oil pan which is another must do.
- oil pump reseal
- front and rear main seals
- water pump and hoses
- VC and spark plug gaskets
- PHH (already has the Good constant pressure clamps)
- rebuild injectors (easy to do now and not that expensive and great peace of mind)
- all new gaskets and seals (Toyota head gasket kit mentioned above)
- replace all vacuum hoses and test components under the upper intake manifold before reassembly.
- new fuel filter
I wouldn't worry about the bottom end and rotating assembly at this mileage.
Clean the piston tops of carbon when the head is off and inpect the block deck at the water passages for signs of corrosion.
It is a lot of work you have ahead to do this swap.
Put the extra time in while the new engine is on a stand in front of you to eliminate potential future likely problems or you are rolling the dice and leaving unknowns that could have been solved easily.
Regardless of how great it ran or how low mile it was, it's still a 1997 engine....
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