Goose Gear Plate System - Question (1 Viewer)

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@clayinho - I think the pivot effect of using only 2 mounting points is the main concern. Adding 2 more mounting points from the rear most d-rings would eliminate that potential issue. Even though you found 2 mounting points strong enough previously, adding 2 more at this stage seems like a pretty simple addition for a fairly minimal amount of effort. But it's obviously your decision to make; I tend to err on the side of caution on this sort of thing.

I'd love to read about how you created the template to use for tracing the cut onto the plywood and how you went about finding the correct place to drill the holes for the mounting points.

In my case with a 2020 HE (no 3rd row seats), I don't believe I have the 3rd row seat mounting points available to use, which I restricts me to using the 4 d-ring mounting points unless I want to start drilling holes in the floor (I would prefer not to). If I could find a bolt with a low profile head that also has enough strength, using 4 of them on the d-ring mounts with fender washers would probably be the solution I would go with and not worry about a recessed mount to avoid weakening the plywood. If drawers are being installed, a flush mount isn't super important anyway as long as the bolts don't stick up high enough to interfere with them.
 
Not implying you should design them for an idiot like me. Just thinking about how I'd like to customize my version to meet my own needs.
Im with you! An aluminum bar that's glued in a recess or wedged in to a groove would help a ton. My other plate was 3/4" and this one I went for 1/2" but reinforced my mounts with 3" round pieces of 1/2".

When I get the drawer attached I'll give the whole setup a tug up and see if I need to use the back corner d-ring holes.
 
Regarding pivoting, the front of the platform is supported with 1.75" extra to level it all out and it's got great support with the bars of the third row seat latches and carpet and pad toward the rear.

I'll go wrestle a bit with it today and see if I need to change my mind and add anything else.

For the template, there's no secret. Get your hands on a cargo mat without third row and trace it out. There's one for sale in the classifieds 😂.

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Regarding pivoting, the front of the platform is supported with 1.75" extra to level it all out and it's got great support with the bars of the third row seat latches and carpet and pad toward the rear.

I'll go wrestle a bit with it today and see if I need to change my mind and add anything else.

For the template, there's no secret. Get your hands on a cargo mat without third row and trace it out. There's one for sale in the classifieds 😂.
That's brilliant! I was thinking cardboard template, but as it happens, I still have my Heritage cargo mat. Score! Thanks for the tip.
 
That's brilliant! I was thinking cardboard template, but as it happens, I still have my Heritage cargo mat. Score! Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, I was thinking cardboard template too, completely forgetting there’s a cargo mat sitting in the back of mine LOL.
 
Ladies and Gents,
I’m trying to install my Goose gear system this weekend and ran into something that surprises me while installing the plate.

It seems odd to me that there is a gap between the plate and the floor of my cargo area up against the seats.
See the pics. My fingers can fit under the rear lip. It feels like it’s built up a bit under there so as to meet the floor, but the build-up isn’t nearly tall enough so that side of the plate is floating in air.
Do the floors in all LC’s dip downward as the rear seats are approached? I wonder if only 2 row Heritage LC’s have this dip and the plate doesn’t take it into account.

I’ll call Goose Gear on Monday but am hoping for an answer sooner.

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I don't have answers to your questions, but I'm having a bit of a hard time visualizing what viewpoint those photos were taken from. Something showing more of an overall view might be helpful.
 
Ladies and Gents,
I’m trying to install my Goose gear system this weekend and ran into something that surprises me while installing the plate.

It seems odd to me that there is a gap between the plate and the floor of my cargo area up against the seats.
See the pics. My fingers can fit under the rear lip. It feels like it’s built up a bit under there so as to meet the floor, but the build-up isn’t nearly tall enough so that side of the plate is floating in air.
Do the floors in all LC’s dip downward as the rear seats are approached? I wonder if only 2 row Heritage LC’s have this dip and the plate doesn’t take it into account.

I’ll call Goose Gear on Monday but am hoping for an answer sooner.

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Yeah the floor isn’t flat.
 
I don't have answers to your questions, but I'm having a bit of a hard time visualizing what viewpoint those photos were taken from. Something showing more of an overall view might be helpful.
Sorry.
See these pics. Do they help?

And thanks Grinchy.
But even if everybody’s floor isn’t flat, I would still think they would have built up the underside so the side towards the front of the vehicle isn’t floating.
And I’m not sure if the floating actually would cause any issues. It’s seems unlikely that it ever gets broken off, but still…. Why not support it?
Maybe I’ll wedge something under there.

Also, any thoughts as to what the hole on the driver side next to the air intake is for? The 1 inch wide by 1 inch long opening that can be seen in the second photo below that is right in front (from that perspective) if the wheel.
(Though maybe this will become obvious when I install the drawers)

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Those photos definitely help. My initial thought is that the 2 row HE floor isn't any different other than the missing / covered mounts for the 3rd row seats. If it's just a few inches that doesn't have any support, it's probably no big deal. But if it's more like a foot or more, I would be concerned if I were going to use the platform to support a lot of weight (as in as a sleeping platform). If you're mounting their drawers over it, the bulk of any load will probably get transferred to the back where there's plenty of support available. Either way, I would probably be inclined to put a few blocks underneath to provide support, just in case.
 
Some have posted photos of their plate bottoms prior to installation. IIRC, there are wooden blocks attached at specific points for just this reason. Did yours come with blocks attached, or maybe loose in the box?

Here's another install thread, no bottom pix though:

 
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Those photos definitely help. My initial thought is that the 2 row HE floor isn't any different other than the missing / covered mounts for the 3rd row seats. If it's just a few inches that doesn't have any support, it's probably no big deal. But if it's more like a foot or more, I would be concerned if I were going to use the platform to support a lot of weight (as in as a sleeping platform). If you're mounting their drawers over it, the bulk of any load will probably get transferred to the back where there's plenty of support available. Either way, I would probably be inclined to put a few blocks underneath to provide support, just in case.
Thanks.
My thoughts too.
I am only installing a single drawer so there is the potential that something heavy sits on the floating area on the passenger side. Frankly, it’s unlikely but I guess I will put a block or two under there just in case. (After talking to Goose Gear)
 
Some have posted photos of their plate bottoms prior to installation. IIRC, there are wooden blocks attached at specific points for just this reason. Did yours come with blocks attached, or maybe loose in the box?

Here's another install thread, no bottom pix though:

Good thinking! Mine did have some blocks attached but maybe you are dead-on about missing a block that I still need to attach!

To be honest… I have not yet unwrapped the drawer. There are no spare blocks to attach that came packed in with the plate, but maybe there is something in with the drawer.
Capital idea!
I will say that there are some screw holes in the plate on that floating side and I was wondering what they are for.

And I have heard that GG is crap for instructions so I assumed there were none and rashly proceeded.
Perhaps there are instructions in with the drawer!

I will let you guys and gals know tomorrow when I tackle that step.
 
Their instructions or lack thereof are a tad annoying. I ran their plate and drawers in our last GX. Good stuff but not as refined as they’d have you believe. Sorry I can’t be of any further assistance in regards to your issue as I don’t have them in the 200. When it comes time to buy drawers I’ll likely plop down the cash for Trekboxx and be done with it.
 
Somewhere I saw that with the HE missing the 3rd row there aren't as many anchor points. So I passed on this plate.
 
Somewhere I saw that with the HE missing the 3rd row there aren't as many anchor points. So I passed on this plate.
People have posted that the anchor points are there on the HE, you just need to expose them.
 
People have posted that the anchor points are there on the HE, you just need to expose them.
Yeah, IIRC a bit of drilling is required in the floor to do that. I would definitely want to measure several times before drilling to end up with nice clean, centered holes. Using the Goose Gear plate as a template for finding where to drill might work well - bolt it down with the 4 cargo ring bolts, then carefully drill where the holes are for the rear seat bolts as they should be nicely lined up. Would probably need to remove the carpet to do this though.

This was one of the few negatives to getting a 2 row HE for me as I didn’t want the other deleted items - center console cool box, rear screens, etc.
 
This was one of the few negatives to getting a 2 row HE for me as I didn’t want the other deleted items - center console cool box, rear screens, etc.
Agreed.
I didn’t know at the time, but if I could do it again I would certainly get the 3 row heritage and then toss the third row seats.
Oh well…. Live a learn.

As for finding those extra holes to better bolt the plate down; good idea about using the plate as a template. I might do that.
On the other hand, the plate is bolted down using the 4 factory tie-down threads. Would Toyota have put in tie-down bolts that are insufficient to hold heavy weights down? Yes, I would like more bolts, but maybe I’m just over cautious.
 

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