Only Have 1-3 Gears, Won’t Upshift Sometimes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter pgt0031
- Start date
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I'd start with the output speed sensor as described here: p0722 p0761 p2714 transmission codes - https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/p0722-p0761-p2714-transmission-codes.766224/
For Engine/Tranny stuff I sometimes find more info in the Tundra Forums, as they are *nearly* Identical. There are way more Tundras with high mileage, and way more shade tree mechanics working on Tundras. But, as always, proceed with caution and do your own research. Replacing the Output Speed sensor seems to be low cost, low effort if it in fact works. Also, be careful with dealers and transmission issues, they most always will want to replace the whole thing in my experience.
For Engine/Tranny stuff I sometimes find more info in the Tundra Forums, as they are *nearly* Identical. There are way more Tundras with high mileage, and way more shade tree mechanics working on Tundras. But, as always, proceed with caution and do your own research. Replacing the Output Speed sensor seems to be low cost, low effort if it in fact works. Also, be careful with dealers and transmission issues, they most always will want to replace the whole thing in my experience.
How much maintenance has the transmission received over the years?
Yeah how hard has this thing been run?
I had shift solenoid codes on mine, I did not have a refusal to shift past 3rd though. I did have a harsh downshift when accelerating. I replaced my valve body with one that had been tuned and all of the 'big' solenoids. It corrected the issue. I didn't have any other signs of wear though, the magnets were pretty clean and I had serviced it regularly.
- Thread starter
- #5
I unfortunately don't have any service history other than carfax records. i bought my LC from an auction. I've been driving it for about a year now and this issue has been getting progressively worse. I do have a 3 inch OME lift kit on it. I'm sure my transmission doesn't like that too much lol.
I will try replacing the output speed sensor. hopefully that might have something to do with it. That's good to know that the trans are very similar to a tundra
I will try replacing the output speed sensor. hopefully that might have something to do with it. That's good to know that the trans are very similar to a tundra
bloc
SILVER Star
Trans is an AB60F if that helps with any research.
Also you can punch your VIN into the Toyota owners site to see any service history performed at dealer service centers. Obviously this won’t cover random shops but given the cost of these vehicles and the common behavior of the people that buy them new it is usually the bulk of the service they get early in their history.
Its amazing that I am having basically the same issue right now. You can see what I have tried (and hasnt worked for your reference of what it probably isnt). I have a stack of materials also if you need them.
forum.ih8mud.com
LC200 AB60 not shifting into 4th ... Solenoid Codes
Hi All, I am at a bit of a loss what to do with my LC200 AB60. A week ago it stopped shifting into 4th gear (in either Auto or S modes). It throws the following codes; - P0761: Shift Solenoid "C" Performance or Stuck OFF - P2714: Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performance or Stuck OFF I did...
forum.ih8mud.com
I posted to the other thread but there’s another guy who had similar codes. Dealer was saying he needed a full transmission swap. Turned out to be a cracked valve body, which I think cost about $1k to swap.
Is there a way to see the valve body is cracked once removed? I can remove and check but I am scared I am spending more and more money chasing what is a broken trans (so far ~AUD$1000).
What are the best upgraded valve bodies to buy? We have Nomad here but I know there are also many other variants in the USA (with Tundra) which may be much better (and available in less than 3 weeks).
- Thread starter
- #12
I’m taking it into the shop Tuesday. I’ll update when I hear back more. My mechanic thinks it’s not building enough line pressure. If it’s a transmission pump issue, the trans has to come out. Hopefully that’s not the case. He said if it was the output speed sensor, I wouldn’t have any gears.
The other things I am looking at are; the valve body (potentially being cracked which would be responsible for the low line pressure) or a line-pressure leak in the valve body through one of the exhaust ports documented here;
Diagnosing Solenoid Performance Faults in A761, AB60 & A960 6-Speed Units
The Toyota/Lexus A761, AB60 and A960 6-speed transmissions have been showing up in shops more frequently over the last couple of years. Warranties are expiring and people seem to be hanging on to their vehicles longer these days. Even so, there are a number of different issues with these...
www.transmissiondigest.com
I will keep you updated of my progress also.
Some update on the progress on mine in the case someone needs this in the future;
1. It is not true that if the output sensor is not working you will not be able to shift. You can freely disconnect the output sensor and the car assumes the output RPM and freely shifts P, N, R, D, S, 1, 2, 3 without any problems or differences. So, it is possible that this sensor not reading properly can contribute to similar errors.
2. The car not shifting into 4th may actually be more to do with it being in a hidden "Limp" mode than its actual ability to shift up.
3. I was able to change the tune to stop it from throwing codes and had some success in it shifting up but it still moves to a "Limp" shift pattern without codes and then refuses to shift again.
4. The issue is likely something to do with its ability to build pressure (ie either internal pump and / or valve body).
How are you going with it @pgt0031
1. It is not true that if the output sensor is not working you will not be able to shift. You can freely disconnect the output sensor and the car assumes the output RPM and freely shifts P, N, R, D, S, 1, 2, 3 without any problems or differences. So, it is possible that this sensor not reading properly can contribute to similar errors.
2. The car not shifting into 4th may actually be more to do with it being in a hidden "Limp" mode than its actual ability to shift up.
3. I was able to change the tune to stop it from throwing codes and had some success in it shifting up but it still moves to a "Limp" shift pattern without codes and then refuses to shift again.
4. The issue is likely something to do with its ability to build pressure (ie either internal pump and / or valve body).
How are you going with it @pgt0031
- Thread starter
- #15
Hmm interesting...
I might try disconnecting the output sensor and see what happens.
So, my mechanic was not happy with the answer the service bulletin gave him - to replace the trans and tcm.
His scanner was not able to show line pressure but it did show when the tcm calls for an upshift/downshift.
On the test drive, the trans showed it was calling for the shift before it actually physically shifted. It did that perfectly fine for gears 1-3. It never called for 4th gear at all. So that leaves us to believe it might be line pressure, valve body or possibly a tcm issue. Later that day (after clearing codes) I had all my gears and it drove just fine for the rest of that night. I drove it to work the next day (made sure to let my land cruiser to heat up) and I had the same exact issues again but no MIL yet. Maybe clearing the codes resets the vehicle out of the "Limp" mode??
I do not know if clearing the codes had to do with anything or it was just a coincidence that everything decided to briefly work. When it works, it shifts beautifully.
It's not like it's calling for 4th gear and then not able to engage. 4th gear is never called for. If I can figure that out then I might be able to solve this. It doesn't even call for it when I put the shifter into tip tronic.
I just don't understand why it sometimes works if line pressure is truly a problem. I may just replace the tcm and hope for the best.
I suspect clearing codes got you out of limp mode temporarily. Whatever issue you have isn’t so bad that it immediately goes back into limp mode on restart, it needs time to warm up before whatever sensor reading which is off is considered valid by the ECU. Or that’s my hunch anyway
It doesn't work. I tried to clear it frequently while driving to allow it to make the request but it simply will not get out of the Normal/Limp pattern and it is doesn't even have a code active when it is reporting a Normal/Limp mode. It is something internal that it doesn't like and won't request the shift. I suspect something to do with pressure or c1 clutch issue maybe.
Did you try a simple drain and fill? You have to open it up anyway right? Might just work. Good luck
Fair enough.
I suspect a bad valve body or solenoid but I’ll be curious to see what the final answer is
Solenoids are were all ok (tested resistance and also activation and gave them a good clean) but I replaced the big ones / swapped around the c3/1 which was the code .... its not related to solenoids ...
More then happy to sell the new solenoids (they did 2km of driving) to anyone that may actually have a solenoid issue.
