Builds Where it all began... an FJ62 story (2 Viewers)

[jesus888]

First things first… we cleaned up the bracket that housed all of those smog sensors (removed what we didn’t need) and installed just the VSV that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. We didn’t do anything fancy… it actually was pretty quick and left some time for more activities…

 

[jesus888]

Those activities were inspired by a @wngrog post that I bookmarked (one of many) that involved $25 gas struts, and a $40 tool that I’ll need for sure again…

Installed M8 rivnuts on the hood side, there’s already a hole, just needed to make it a hair larger, and for FJ62s there’s a little bit of a clearance issue with the fender on the drivers side and with the air cleaner bracket on the passenger side…

Magically both of those clearance issues are non-issues if you add the included nut to the stud ends that you screw to the fender side for the struts… hood springs are no longer welcome in my FJ62.

Tomorrow… we take a look at the exhaust and use the exhaust gasket on the shelf… I wanna hear my sewing machine sew instead of the tick tick tick of exhaust leaks. Also gonna replace the old O2 sensors with new ones if there’s time.

 

[RockDoc]

PS Idle still hangs out between 900 and 1K which seems a bit high…

If you haven't already, check the function and adjustment of your throttle position sensor, specially the idle circuit/switch. If the ecu doesn't know its supposed to be idling, the ISC valve won't be adjusted to rein in the idle speed. ISC valve or wiring to it could also be the issue. I've personally had TPS adjustment and a break in the ISC valve wiring give me uncontrolled idle on different engines.

 

[cruisermatt]

FYI, that isn’t a VSV, it’s just a solenoid, and I believe you could just run FPR directly to intake vacuum to clean it up further since all that is happening is that valve is opening with key-on power.

 

[RockDoc]

That VSV switches the reference pressure for the fuel pressure regulator between manifold and atmosphere. It's a simple / elegant way for the ecu to enrich the fuel mixture under certain conditions (I believe for drivability when the engine is cold and to reduce combustion temp when overheating). Lots of guys remove it and just reference the FPR from manifold pressure when they desmog... I've kept it on my engines.

 

[jesus888]

FYI, that isn’t a VSV, it’s just a solenoid, and I believe you could just run FPR directly to intake vacuum to clean it up further since all that is happening is that valve is opening with key-on power.

That’s how it was hooked up before but I read this thread (FJ62 de-smog question... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-de-smog-question.1055398/) when I was looking for possible answers for my stumble, and it went on the list when I saw “better gas mileage”
It was easy to do, and now I know I can just undo if needed

Also just an additional note. The port that the FPR was connected to didn’t seem to have vacuum, now maybe it develops in circumstances where there’s load? But the port we used for the solenoid definitely does have vacuum…

 

[cruisermatt]

Well now I’m doubting myself on whether it needs ported or manifold vacuum


I’m actually awake now. All the ports on a 3FE that will be manifold vacuum if they have anything there after a desmog.

 

[jesus888]

Quick little update…

Ended up basically taking the solenoid on the driver fender outta the loop, in terms of the FPR. Found a good spot on the manifold and the FPR get its full vacuum from there.

That settled the idle down to 750 rpm which is great.

Also I drove the ol’ girl about 400 miles this weekend back and forth from our little cabin in the mountains and all I can say is that I am VERY pleased with the h55f and suspension install that @cruisermatt did and all of the work we put into all the other stuff under the hood…

I maaaay have even hit 80 mph on the way home on the interstate and was at a hair above 2500 rpm in 5th gear.

She started up hot and cold, and didn’t miss a beat, while the ability to row through the gears and drop into 4th (and 3rd occasionally) on hills made it comfortable and confidence-inspiring to drive.

Still need to take care of the exhaust, too many leaks and too many frozen bolts, but may have a shop do that part, while I focus on some of the nice-to-haves like a stereo/speakers, troubleshooting passenger window with new switch in hand, get my center console Re-installed… that kinda stuff.

 

[jesus888]

Soooo got an unused Tuffy console bracket that @cims1970fj40 was nice enough to give me to see if I could get my center console back in since I didn’t have the rear heater to mount to…

Ended up having to drill a couple extra holes and rotating it 90 degrees, but it worked and yes there’s only 2 screws holding the console to the floor but that seems sturdy enough!

I do have to figure out the hinge… it looks terrible and if anyone has a known fix, drop a line! Really not interested in an aftermarket alternative for the center console… at least not yet.

 

[jesus888]

Then I removed the dash and front door panels in preparation for the stereo install.

Wanted to check out the wiring and it doesn’t look like the PO hacked anything up which is good. I did notice an RCA cable plugged into the aftermarket headunit that was just cut so that probably explains why nothing has ever really worked.

Also the front speakers were garbage and everything’s getting replaced so wanted to start getting stuff cleaned up.

 

[jesus888]

Cleaned the front doors inside and out
Removed the vapor barrier (I’ll replace with shower curtain material before we button it back up),
Swapped my passenger switch with an OEM one (still doesn’t work right but at least it matches)
Put some of the sound deadener on the outer door skin… I may use some on the internet door skin but there’s so much noise coming through the firewall, seems like a foregone conclusion that it’s gonna be noisy.
Cleaned the door panels with some upholstery cleaner… if I had $$$ in the budget for @orikawa panels, I’d do it, but for now, just gonna have to keep that stuff on the wish list.

I’m gonna be working on my power windows and door locks and window channels while the doors are open… figure the doors are getting closed up once everything’s as close to right as I can get it. So things may be open for a few days/week…

 

[orikawa]

Those look great man! Love the attention to detail

I will be releasing the 62 stuff very shortly. Been too long but had a lot going on. This next year is gonna be crackin!

 

[jesus888]

Forgot to mention, found a small radiator leak after changing the coolant and installing a new thermostat… we saw some new red markings on the housing and seem to have pinpointed a tiny leak in the radiator that only seems leak when it’s under pressure…

Not really interested in sourcing/paying for a brand new radiator at the moment and really don’t want to take it out either at the moment…

So a little JB Weld for now… don’t judge me.

 

[jesus888]

Then before we jumped to the windows/door locks, I wanted to take a look at my blinker situation…

The blinker works intermittently or just stay lit or does nothing… same for hazard switch

Took it down and inspected/opened and cleaned it up (pretty great condition), and stuck it back in but had the same problem…

I suspect I need to replace it? Or maybe it’s something on the turn signal stalk I can check out? No idea… but @ $61/each, I may be looking for something that matches from the pull apart yard unless someone has some suggestions

 

[jesus888]

And then came step 1 of diagnosing my windows issues.

We opened/cleaned the master switch and put it all back together, plugged it up and everything is the same. Nothing corrected still.

To outline the windows issues:

• Master switch opens/closes driver including Auto down feature
• Master switch opens and closes both rear windows occasionally, when the truck is running
• Master switch will not open/close passenger front window
• Passenger front window switch Opens window but does NOT close window
• Rear window switches - not sure, haven’t sat back there yet

Door locks

• Power door lock switch locks/unlocks front doors
• Rear doors locks are not actuated at all
• Liftgate lock (rear most door) does not actuate either

 

[jesus888]

Todays picture progress is the drivers side front window channel, replaced with the flocked material @Super77 found and has a thread about. @Spook50 has some very helpful pictures and measurements in that thread.

Passenger side will be easy (20 min) but I need to be able to power the window up and down to do the work, and that’s not gonna happen for a bit… because there’s some items on order…

 

[jesus888]

Items on order (should be delivered this week):

• Amp wiring kit for the amp (cheapest way to get 17ft of 4 awg wire, speaker wires, connectors etc, also some bulk wire for activities
• SuperbrightLED lights for everywhere inside while the dash is apart
• Small fuse block for inside the cab to run power from the battery to each door for the power windows/door locks relay mod
• Early FJ60 Flasher relay to be modded to work with aforementioned LED blinker hulbs
• @LA Z ’s power windows relay harness and power door locks harness plus a couple relays to replace the green box relays in the drivers door (while we’re in there)
• A $16 keyless entry brain and remotes because it’s super easy while we’re doing the power locks mod…

I think next steps while I wait for all of this is getting the radio installed… I’m not sure what else I can do before all of this stuff gets here …

 

[dogcruiser]

Todays picture progress is the drivers side front window channel, replaced with the flocked material @Super77 found and has a thread about. @Spook50 has some very helpful pictures and measurements in that thread.

Passenger side will be easy (20 min) but I need to be able to power the window up and down to do the work, and that’s not gonna happen for a bit… because there’s some items on order…

How do you like the flocked channel? I bought some and found it was too tight for the windows to operate well. I ended up pulling it out and putting the original back in it.

 

[onemanarmy]

Very interested in seeing the results of the power window relays/fix.

My master switch does some things and not the others....similar to your situation.

 

[jesus888]

How do you like the flocked channel? I bought some and found it was too tight for the windows to operate well. I ended up pulling it out and putting the original back in it.

I had bought the flocked channel a couple months ago and finally got around to putting it in… it’s definitely not too tight, but there is a little squeak as it get close to the top. My original wasn’t awful so it’s not a leaps and bounds situation but I still felt like it probably needed to be replaced sooner or later.

We’ll see once the relays and the fixes are in…