Using a Motive Power Bleeder to bleed brakes? (1 Viewer)

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I've exclusively used my Motive Power Bleeder to bleed brakes on all my cars. Which have mostly been european cars, so the Motive just screws right into the master cylinder reservoir. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, doesn't use a threaded cap and Motive doesn't have one that fits directly.

Has anyone successfully used the Motive with one of their universal fitment caps to bleed/flush their brakes on the 200?

If not, is there another 1 man brake bleeding tool that you have used on the 200 that works well?

TIA!
 
I've exclusively used my Motive Power Bleeder to bleed brakes on all my cars. Which have mostly been european cars, so the Motive just screws right into the master cylinder reservoir. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, doesn't use a threaded cap and Motive doesn't have one that fits directly.

Has anyone successfully used the Motive with one of their universal fitment caps to bleed/flush their brakes on the 200?

If not, is there another 1 man brake bleeding tool that you have used on the 200 that works well?

TIA!
I’m not sure I’d want to pressurize a reservoir that wasn’t designed for it, and not sure how our electric pump plus pressure accumulator situation would impact the utility of pressurized bleeding. I do know draining down the accumulator is a good idea if you want a complete flush of the system.

Speed bleeders would be my move if I absolutely had to have one-man bleeding ability. For the record on our rigs the rears don’t need to be pumped.. if you hold the pedal down slightly it uses the booster/accumulator pump to flush the rear. Not the front though. I don’t know why there is a difference, but there is.
 
I love my motive bleeder, I use it on a 1988 hj75 troopy brake lines and clutch. Also on a 1984 230e merc, that one screws on. Used it for about 6 years now.

Motive has a universal fitting which relies on a rubber seal and chain clamp. It definitely is not as good as the screw on but works. I read somewhere some folks changed the cumbersome chain system to a rubber bungy cord tie down. I persevere with the chain.
The pia is the clutch master as it is positioned so close to the firewall, I had to trim some of the seal plate to fit snugly against the clutch master reservoir. Also, one requires to get it dead center or it leaks brake fluid everywhere.

When it leaks it is a real pia, but overall still really worth it, to do it solo without pumping pedals, which can reveal the dead rusty spots on the internals of master/slave cylinders.

Motive power bleeder was a revelation for the capacity for me to replace brakes and clutch master /slave solo. Swear by it. Even if I swear when I don't get the seal dead right and it leaks. I get toyota brake fluid in the bulk 500ml boxes of a dozen and don't hesitate flushing brakes or clutch, no worries.

I posted once asking if someone switched to a screw on reservoir on their brake or clutch master, but no one replied. It should be possible though and intend pickaparting a merc reservoir next time I am at the wreckers and fit it to the toyota master cylinder.

👍
 
I love my motive bleeder, I use it on a 1988 hj75 troopy brake lines and clutch. Also on a 1984 230e merc, that one screws on. Used it for about 6 years now.

Motive has a universal fitting which relies on a rubber seal and chain clamp. It definitely is not as good as the screw on but works. I read somewhere some folks changed the cumbersome chain system to a rubber bungy cord tie down. I persevere with the chain.
The pia is the clutch master as it is positioned so close to the firewall, I had to trim some of the seal plate to fit snugly against the clutch master reservoir. Also, one requires to get it dead center or it leaks brake fluid everywhere.

When it leaks it is a real pia, but overall still really worth it, to do it solo without pumping pedals, which can reveal the dead rusty spots on the internals of master/slave cylinders.

Motive power bleeder was a revelation for the capacity for me to replace brakes and clutch master /slave solo. Swear by it. Even if I swear when I don't get the seal dead right and it leaks. I get toyota brake fluid in the bulk 500ml boxes of a dozen and don't hesitate flushing brakes or clutch, no worries.

I posted once asking if someone switched to a screw on reservoir on their brake or clutch master, but no one replied. It should be possible though and intend pickaparting a merc reservoir next time I am at the wreckers and fit it to the toyota master cylinder.

👍
Which universal plate are you using? Part #1119 or the other one?
 
I’m not sure I’d want to pressurize a reservoir that wasn’t designed for it, and not sure how our electric pump plus pressure accumulator situation would impact the utility of pressurized bleeding. I do know draining down the accumulator is a good idea if you want a complete flush of the system.

Speed bleeders would be my move if I absolutely had to have one-man bleeding ability. For the record on our rigs the rears don’t need to be pumped.. if you hold the pedal down slightly it uses the booster/accumulator pump to flush the rear. Not the front though. I don’t know why there is a difference, but there is.
Been using it for over 20 years and I can tell ya there's no worries about pressurizing the reservoir.
 
Why won't it work on the rears?
Not sure why. Probably something to do with the accumulator? I still attach and pressurize it for the rears but they don’t bleed until someone presses the brake pedal.
 
Not sure why. Probably something to do with the accumulator? I still attach and pressurize it for the rears but they don’t bleed until someone presses the brake pedal.
That's just strange. If I need someone to press the pedal for the rears, I might as well just go old school and have them pump the pedal for the fronts too
 
Tech stream has a built in full flush procedure, will move a ton of fluid through.
Might want to check that out. May be model year specific though. It will run booster for you, then you close and corner bleed process as usual.

Still need to watch and feed fluid though so you may need a helper.
 
Thanks! Did you have any issues using the Motive to bleed the rear brakes?
 
I have tried 2 different universals, that one above looks like a newer one.

There was a round plastic universal with a slightly domed rubber piece with a chain clamp, that was the better unit, but I have misplaced the domed rubber piece. A piece of plumbing rubber works but does not agree with brake fluid for very long.

The other is a square piece of aluminium with rubber on one side, chain clamps. That one I had to cut to fit the clutch master.

If the master reservoirs had screw on caps it would make the world a happier and better place..
 
To clarify, the BA10 adapter above isn't really universal. It's designed to fit certain Toyotas.

I have used this to bleed the brakes on my 200 a few times. For the front, it is standard Motive PB procedure, although I also used it in conjunction with Techstream to move fluid through the ABS module.

For the rear brakes, I pressurized the Motive but I also followed the procedure of holding the brake pedal down to let the 200's own brake pump run fluid through the rear lines.

For the rear brakes and for the ABS. I figured the extra pressure of the Motive wouldn't hurt, but I doubt it was really necessary to use it in either case.
 
I have that BA10 adapter and it fits perfectly.
 
Is anyone using speed bleeders? I have them on my DD (which needs more frequent flushes due to fluid chemistry and nature of use) and they are great.. so good I don't bother with transferring fluid in/out of and cleaning my power bleeder which screws right on. The check valve bleeders require more walking around the car but is still a one-person operation.

I will say it took some detective work to find the correct sizes, lots of what was printed online wasn't accurate in that application. Haven't yet looked at the 200 fitment, as DOT3 (as specified for us) has a big advantage over good DOT4 in avoiding moisture absorption.
 
It is a little more of a hassle, but I use the Motive "dry", I just use it as a way to apply low pressure. I make sure I keep the reservoir filled by periodically stopping and adding fluid.
 
It is a little more of a hassle, but I use the Motive "dry", I just use it as a way to apply low pressure. I make sure I keep the reservoir filled by periodically stopping and adding fluid.
In the past I used an air pressure regulator to do the same thing with a chain-type cap cobbled together from hardware store stuff. Worked well. But that was a German car where I knew they were built for pressure bleeding.

But yeah I never considered using it dry.. like the idea of that.
 
Is anyone using speed bleeders? I have them on my DD (which needs more frequent flushes due to fluid chemistry and nature of use) and they are great.. so good I don't bother with transferring fluid in/out of and cleaning my power bleeder which screws right on. The check valve bleeders require more walking around the car but is still a one-person operation.

I will say it took some detective work to find the correct sizes, lots of what was printed online wasn't accurate in that application. Haven't yet looked at the 200 fitment, as DOT3 (as specified for us) has a big advantage over good DOT4 in avoiding moisture absorption.

Bump for this. I'm interested in speed bleeders as well - ran them on my FJ-62 and in the clutch line for my VW R. Anyone here using them or know the correct size?
 
Bump for this. I'm interested in speed bleeders as well - ran them on my FJ-62 and in the clutch line for my VW R. Anyone here using them or know the correct size?


If no one chimes in someone can order the stock bleeder plugs and take measurements.

Front: 47547-20030
Rear: 47547-12030

They are very cheap.
 

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