Steering Stabilizer (1 Viewer)

[bikersmurf]

Well I honestly don't know why I never checked on a 60 series mount to begin with, but it looks like they would work!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gas-magnum/chassis---steering/steering/steering-stabilizer-and-dampers/ba0a0c4d2041/monroe-gas-magnum-steering-damper/mon1/sc2916/v/a/8056/automotive-suv-1986-toyota-land-cruiser?pos=0

Monroe SC2916

The one small hiccup is that the taper is going on the particular TRE that I have. I'll either ream a taper reverse to what is there or drill it out and simply use a bolt.

Does anyone know if there are tapered shims that could be used to convert a 1/2" hole to a tapered one? Ideally ones wit a split that would just tighten in with the nut... ensuring a tug fit with no play.

 

[PabloCruise]

Have been down this road on my 73’. Called a few cruiser shops to get stabilizer dimensions and couldn’t find an OEM fit that had the right specs. Found out a Monroe SC2915 unit fits the bill with no mods.

View attachment 3172133

What are the specifics on your PS mods?
Is that a 70 series relay rod end at the pitman arm?

 

[SipLife]

What are the specifics on your PS mods?
Is that a 70 series relay rod end at the pitman arm?

Yep. I’m running a FJ62 PS Box, 70 series relay rod, 70 series tie rod, 70 series rod ends, and FJ62 steering arms. As far as my stabilizer is concerned, they aren’t both mounted behind. The fixed mount near the chassis is behind and the 70 series rod end at the pitman arm is in front. Don’t have a good pic on me at the moment but can snap some tmrw.

 

[PabloCruise]

Forgive my ignorance but how does the 60 series conversion change your steering? I've never dealt with one so I don't know.

No need to beg forgiveness - solid question! The 60 series PS conversion eliminates the center link that our stock 40s used. The 60 box mounts up towards the front so you only need a relay rod to go to from the pitman arm to the steering arm on the passenger side knuckle.

This picture of @dmaddox shows the stock set up:

And here is my 60 series PS:

It is a pretty cool conversion. I read about it years ago and wanted to do it. I wrote a LOT of details about it here: FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj60-power-steering-conversion-for-fj40-while-keeping-air-pump.84527/

 

[PabloCruise]

Yep. I’m running a FJ62 PS Box, 70 series relay rod, 70 series tie rod, 70 series rod ends, and FJ62 steering arms. As far as my stabilizer is concerned, they aren’t both mounted behind. The fixed mount near the chassis is behind and the 70 series rod end at the pitman arm is in front. Don’t have a good pic on me at the moment but can snap some tmrw.

Sounds like a great set up!
I think I can see behind and in front.
I am wondering if I am going to have to do the same.
Do you think you have any possible bind with your behind/front set up?

 

[PabloCruise]

The one small hiccup is that the taper is going on the particular TRE that I have. I'll either ream a taper reverse to what is there or drill it out and simply use a bolt.

Does anyone know if there are tapered shims that could be used to convert a 1/2" hole to a tapered one? Ideally ones wit a split that would just tighten in with the nut... ensuring a tug fit with no play.

So you are using a TRE at the pitman arm, and it has a taper, correct?

I wonder if the actual relay rod ends that mount at the pitman arm have a taper? I would suspect "No" so a steering stabilizer can be utilized.

 

[SipLife]

Sounds like a great set up!
I think I can see behind and in front.
I am wondering if I am going to have to do the same.
Do you think you have any possible bind with your behind/front set up?

No binding. I’ve got a few thousand on/off road miles on it and being my daily as well. Has held up so far.

 

[bikersmurf]

So you are using a TRE at the pitman arm, and it has a taper, correct?

I wonder if the actual relay rod ends that mount at the pitman arm have a taper? I would suspect "No" so a steering stabilizer can be utilized.

My setup is much the same as the one pictured below.

I'm using a Minitruck TRE rather than the 70 series TRE in the picture I borrowed from your post above. Based on what a local member did here on his 45, the stock mount will need to be moved further away to create enough room for the longer 60 series stabilizer.

The larger end of the tapered hole is on the front of the TRE. For the alignment of the stabilizer to be correct with the stock mount, the stabilizer needs to be mounted behind the relay rod. To make it work, I'll either need to machine the taper from the rear or to simply drill out the taper and mount that end of the Monroe Stabilizer using a bolt and some spacers.

 

[PabloCruise]

Yep. I’m running a FJ62 PS Box, 70 series relay rod, 70 series tie rod, 70 series rod ends, and FJ62 steering arms. As far as my stabilizer is concerned, they aren’t both mounted behind. The fixed mount near the chassis is behind and the 70 series rod end at the pitman arm is in front. Don’t have a good pic on me at the moment but can snap some tmrw.

Taking a quick look, I think that is how mine could go - 60 series stabilizer behind the mount tab on the frame crossmember, and then in front of the relay rod end.

Did you use the hardware supplied?

 

[SipLife]

Taking a quick look, I think that is how mine could go - 60 series stabilizer behind the mount tab on the frame crossmember, and then in front of the relay rod end.

Did you use the hardware supplied?

IIRC I needed one extra washer than the kit supplied. Everything else worked.

 

[PabloCruise]

Nice!
Awesome. I think I am on my way...

 

[bikersmurf]

The local 45 owner, who did the same, relocated the fixed mount so that the stabilizer was at the middle of its travel. I don’t know if it’s absolutely necessary, but I plan to do the same.

 

[PabloCruise]

The local 45 owner, who did the same, relocated the fixed mount so that the stabilizer was at the middle of its travel. I don’t know if it’s absolutely necessary, but I plan to do the same.

I gotcha.

I would rather not relocate the fixed mount if I don't have to.

 

[PabloCruise]

Yep. I’m running a FJ62 PS Box, 70 series relay rod, 70 series tie rod, 70 series rod ends, and FJ62 steering arms. As far as my stabilizer is concerned, they aren’t both mounted behind. The fixed mount near the chassis is behind and the 70 series rod end at the pitman arm is in front. Don’t have a good pic on me at the moment but can snap some tmrw.

One thing I noticed while looking at my set up is that the fixed mounting tab on my front crossmember looks to be angled in, towards the back of the Cruiser.

I am sure a picture would help here...

Not sure if that is due to its prior life pushing snow?

Does your tab hang straight up and down?

 

[SipLife]

Here’s a couple photos of my setup. Tab does have a slight bend toward the back of the cruiser.

 

[bikersmurf]

Here’s a couple photos of my setup. Tab does have a slight bend toward the back of the cruiser.

View attachment 3179179View attachment 3179180View attachment 3179181

I’ll have to take another look at mine. I’ve been trying to sort out how to have the bolt coming from the back… looks like coming from the front could be better.

 

[PabloCruise]

Here’s a couple photos of my setup. Tab does have a slight bend toward the back of the cruiser.

View attachment 3179179View attachment 3179180View attachment 3179181

Thank you!

 

[Grayscale]

Wow.

The original 40 stabilizer was held midway to the fulcrum on the axle side of the center arm, which is going to be far less movement than the position of the factory 60 mount for the same amount of knuckle movement.

Did 60s come with manual steering? Let's just say that I doubt the design of the 40 stabilizer is matched to a 60 box.

The Rough Country design seems like a better method, as it is taking shock out of the tie rod itself, and not trying to deal with a mechanically greater challenge of a wild drag link relative to a mounting point on the frame. In other words, the amount of unwanted bump-steer (oversized tires, and suspension lift) from one side of the vehicle is attenuated by the stabilizer before that force affects the other knuckle, as it is mounted to an actual fixed position on the axle, and not the frame via the constantly cycling suspension system. It would make sense that the stabilizer's has to do less work if can deal with those forces instead of loading them to the opposite knuckle, and you now have two oversized tires that are now undesirably guided away from the trajectory of the vehicle. Ugly parts, they need black paint, and trail dirt, but, I'd consider them.

The ill-fit of the relay-rod hole taper issue would warrant attention. No point having equipment that is a poor fit.

 

[Grayscale]

Another option is to weld an ear on the link and use the oem stabilizer.

Weld, to the drag link?

 

[PabloCruise]

Wow.

The original 40 stabilizer was held midway to the fulcrum on the axle side of the center arm, which is going to be far less movement than the position of the factory 60 mount for the same amount of knuckle movement.

Did 60s come with manual steering? Let's just say that I doubt the design of the 40 stabilizer is matched to a 60 box.

The Rough Country design seems like a better method, as it is taking shock out of the tie rod itself, and not trying to deal with a mechanically greater challenge of a wild drag link relative to a mounting point on the frame. In other words, the amount of unwanted bump-steer (oversized tires, and suspension lift) from one side of the vehicle is attenuated by the stabilizer before that force affects the other knuckle, as it is mounted to an actual fixed position on the axle, and not the frame via the constantly cycling suspension system. It would make sense that the stabilizer's has to do less work if can deal with those forces instead of loading them to the opposite knuckle, and you now have two oversized tires that are now undesirably guided away from the trajectory of the vehicle. Ugly parts, they need black paint, and trail dirt, but, I'd consider them.

The ill-fit of the relay-rod hole taper issue would warrant attention. No point having equipment that is a poor fit.

My plan is to use a 60 series stabilizer as it is used on a 60:

Monroe Magnum Steering Damper Steering Stabilizer SC2916

Monroe Magnum Steering Damper SC2916. New parts, expert support, free shipping.

www.shocksurplus.com

I think the taper issue comes up when someone is using a TRE to mount a steering stabilizer, I am not completely clear on that. I have a relay rod end at the pitman arm, taper should not be an issue.