TOYOTA, more than ever before... (1 Viewer)

[CruiserTrash]

@cps432 the thing to remember is that these trucks are difficult to kill. It seems to take a concerted effort. I understand your limited by indoor space and the outdoor temps, but … 60s never seem terribly far off from running right. Maybe Gibson will let you pull the truck into some heated shop space on a weekend and you can go at it haha!

So far, what I’m hearing is that the coolant froze. I think first steps are letting it thaw, maybe taking it for a cooling system pressure test, then replacing a few things. Water pump sounds like it probably at itself. Radiator might now be leaking if the coolant expanded. There’s somebody selling a new Chanpion radiator here in Denver for $300 - if it’s helpful I can facilitate the deal, ship it, whatever. I have a used working water pump I just removed that I can send (get me back before next summer so I can have a spare on deck).

I agree with the advice on going back to a carb. The carb on my previous 60 fired up on no more than 3 key turns every time in the winter. My new 60 - I’m still working out the issues. But at least they’re not computer issues that you CAN’T fix because of the “intelligent” design of the MAF and feedback loop system.

After that … you said maybe a bad bearing. I haven’t done that work before but have read several threads - it doesn’t look too bad. Drop the oil pan (great time for a new gasket haha), take off the offending bearing cap, new bearings, Plastigage, button it back up.

I’ve wanted to throw in the towel before. On the previous 60, I had a Craigslist sale ad all typed up on day 5 of removing the original suspension. I really wanted to set the whole f*cking truck on fire right then and there. But I got through and daily drove it for two more years without encountering any major problems.

What can we do to assist?

 

[cps432]

Well, the spark plugs are all fouled. 2-6 are heavily coated in oil. The water pump is about two years old and is a proper aisin replacement. The crunchy sound is defiantly coming from the water pump breaking the ice. The radiator is likely split but I haven’t seen any signs. Then again it’s hard to see when it’s in the truck. The thermostat housing is gushing coolant from all the seals because that’s likely where the coolant wants to move once the engine gets warmed up. I’m not so certain about any spun bearings at this time. Probably not. There is no cross contamination in the oil or coolant. I think there’s just massive blow by in the cylinders and it’s causing bad readings in the O2 sensor. It’s definitely time for an engine overhaul and that’s likely the bottom line. I can’t fit the truck in my heated garage even if I could get it to move. It’s too long and tall. I can’t assess the coolant system till I get it thawed out. It’s gonna be below freezing until spring time more than likely.

My options are to tow it to a mechanic and have them thaw it out and check everything over or sell it as is to someone else who’s willing to do this work. If it was spring time I would probably be insane enough to dump all my extra cash and time into this thing again. I know cruisers are notoriously hard to kill. I’ve driven this thing for what, 7-8 years and I’ve done everything to it but repair body rust and rebuild the engine.

It just caught me at the worst time. I knew it was coming. I don’t have the tools to do a rebuild myself anymore. I had to get rid of my press and a bunch of other stuff when I moved. I have a very basic tool set, which is enough to do most work. My job is very physically demanding and I’m often times exhausted by the time I get home. I don’t really have it in me too come home and work on an engine, even if I could pull it and get it in the garage where it’s heated. I also don’t have funds to pay someone else to do it.

I can sell it as is and use that cash as a down payment on a new Tacoma and I’m very much leaning towards that option at this point. However, I suspect layoffs are coming at work after the holidays and I’m wary of getting myself into a financial obligation like buying a new vehicle.

The cruiser has been my hobby and outlet for years now. I always said I would rebuild the engine when the time came, and that time is now. I just don’t know if I can manage it right now.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@cps432 I hear ya man, stuff always seems to pop up at the wrong time. If layoffs are coming at work maybe it makes sense to get a little beater - it would make sense now and next year. Don’t want to be caught with no job and a big car payment. The 60 can sit.

By all means, do what thought wilt, but I’ve seen the regret posts on here all too often. Good luck man, and if there’s anything we can do just holler.

 

[MoaByte]

Besides your coolant freezing I'm guessing your O2 sensor got fouled. It gives a lean reading making the sniper run rich. Likely from blow-by. This sucks, I'm sorry you have these troubles.

 

[cps432]

Besides your coolant freezing I'm guessing your O2 sensor got fouled. It gives a lean reading making the sniper run rich. Likely from blow-by. This sucks, I'm sorry you have these troubles.

Yeah I changed the O2 sensor as a last ditch effort to keep it running before I figured out the coolant froze. It’s was as black as the spark plugs.

There’s half burned oil all inside the sniper too… It’s kind of a messy scene.

 

[MoaByte]

I can only imagine how disappointed you are.

 

[Paullus]

Hopefully you can find another daily driver but still keep the cruiser as a project vehicle. Even more modern vehicles have major problems. My wife's 2008 Dodge 1500 with 210,000 miles just went through a transmission rebuild that cost $2800 plus. The transmission shop was backed up and it couldn't be driven for 3 months. Earlier this year she spent $2600 at the dealer. So that is $5400.

 

[g-man]

Well, the spark plugs are all fouled. 2-6 are heavily coated in oil. The water pump is about two years old and is a proper aisin replacement. The crunchy sound is defiantly coming from the water pump breaking the ice. The radiator is likely split but I haven’t seen any signs. Then again it’s hard to see when it’s in the truck. The thermostat housing is gushing coolant from all the seals because that’s likely where the coolant wants to move once the engine gets warmed up. I’m not so certain about any spun bearings at this time. Probably not. There is no cross contamination in the oil or coolant. I think there’s just massive blow by in the cylinders and it’s causing bad readings in the O2 sensor. It’s definitely time for an engine overhaul and that’s likely the bottom line. I can’t fit the truck in my heated garage even if I could get it to move. It’s too long and tall. I can’t assess the coolant system till I get it thawed out. It’s gonna be below freezing until spring time more than likely.

My options are to tow it to a mechanic and have them thaw it out and check everything over or sell it as is to someone else who’s willing to do this work. If it was spring time I would probably be insane enough to dump all my extra cash and time into this thing again. I know cruisers are notoriously hard to kill. I’ve driven this thing for what, 7-8 years and I’ve done everything to it but repair body rust and rebuild the engine.

It just caught me at the worst time. I knew it was coming. I don’t have the tools to do a rebuild myself anymore. I had to get rid of my press and a bunch of other stuff when I moved. I have a very basic tool set, which is enough to do most work. My job is very physically demanding and I’m often times exhausted by the time I get home. I don’t really have it in me too come home and work on an engine, even if I could pull it and get it in the garage where it’s heated. I also don’t have funds to pay someone else to do it.

I can sell it as is and use that cash as a down payment on a new Tacoma and I’m very much leaning towards that option at this point. However, I suspect layoffs are coming at work after the holidays and I’m wary of getting myself into a financial obligation like buying a new vehicle.

The cruiser has been my hobby and outlet for years now. I always said I would rebuild the engine when the time came, and that time is now. I just don’t know if I can manage it right now.

Buy a junker car and drive it til things warm up. Then pull the motor and replace or rebuild.

 

[cps432]

Alright, boys…

After careful consideration and running some pre approval for loans and financing I’ve decided I have no choice but to make time and effort to rebuild this son of a b!tch.

Harbor freight tools are gonna have to get the job done in some cases. Can I pull the engine with a 1ton hoist or do I need something bigger? Same with the stand.
I’ll be investing in a parts washer because I hate scrubbing grease in a Rubbermaid box. I know I need spring compressors and piston ring compressors. A good set of calipers and a machinist straight edge. What else? Any air tools required or can I get by with box wrenches?

Recommendations on parts kits would be helpful. Any other advise is very welcome. I know I an pull this off.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@cps432 I wish you were closer. I have an Ozy parts washer I’d sell dirt cheap. Needs a heater for the tank.

 

[OSS]

If the block needs to be rebuilt, you’re going to have to take it to a machine shop for them to bore it, regrind stuff etc. Usually once they’ve got it - then they source parts and install pistons, crankshaft etc as part of the rebuild. Or you can source parts sometimes but they install it.

One shop told me that it’s not like you can go into a McDonalds with your own meat and ask them to make a burger with it.

Then they either deliver the finished motor to you or you come pick it up in a pickup truck.

Maybe you have plans for them to just machine the engine and deliver it back to you empty — but I’d call your machine shop now to find out how they want to go about it.

I know that the engine rebuilding place I went to for head work — either they did everything or they didn’t want to get involved.

 

[cps432]

Engine Work

Overland Cruisers is Montana's premier Land Cruiser and Toyota / Lexus 4WD specialist. Whether it be a simple oil change or a diesel/V8 motor conversion or a frame off restoration we're your go-to shop.

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These cats are a stones throw from my house and my roommate works at a shop just behind them. He has access to a flatbed and can get my truck over there. I could pull the engine and send it to them probably. I guess I’ll call them tomorrow on my lunch break and have a chat!

 

[cps432]

It’s happening. I’ll have it out tomorrow. I may decide to split the transmission from the engine first. I have a 2 ton hoist, but I can’t get it close enough to the engine to lift it. If I split trans off the back I can use the 1 1/2 ton. The garage floor is heated and it was nice laying on 90 degree concrete today.

What’s your opinion on using 1 1/2 ton on the whole drivetrain? Should I remove the transmission? I have the jack to make it super easy. I’m doing all of this alone for the most part. My roommate used his Tundra to push me into the garage. I may have his help tomorrow afternoon. I removed the hood alone today. That was easier than expected. Installing it alone will be fun if not impossible.

 

[cps432]

I’ve graduated and acquired some new tools. That air hammer was so nice breaking the crank nut. Wish I had gotten one sooner. 12 ton press was on sale this week. Wish it was the 20, but I think this will do most of what I need to do. The parts washer is very nice to have. Can’t believe I waited so long to get one. Gave myself a nice chemical burn setting it up and washing my tools. Don’t stick your hands in the degreaser even if it’s biodegradable…

Also snagged a tool/parts cart so I don’t have to keep running around digging through ammo cans looking for a 12mm short socket etc. still have to put that together.

 

[OSS]

That’s great
The engine with transmission is a monster big thing.
The engine is sooo much easier to deal with on a hoist when the transmission isn’t bolted to it.
I personally wouldn’t attempt to install the engine with transmission bolted to it alone. It’s a two man job on installation day - one guy at the hoist and the other under the car guiding it in.

I could see installing the engine by itself w/o transmission doing it solo - but I personally wouldn’t attempt to drop the whole mother in by myself with transmission installed.

A 1 ton hoist is supposed to be able to deal with 2000 lbs. That’s more than 2X the weight of the 2F w transmission. It’ll definitely flex when hoisting- but it shouldn’t collapse.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I’ve graduated and acquired some new tools. That air hammer was so nice breaking the crank nut. Wish I had gotten one sooner. 12 ton press was on sale this week. Wish it was the 20, but I think this will do most of what I need to do. The parts washer is very nice to have. Can’t believe I waited so long to get one. Gave myself a nice chemical burn setting it up and washing my tools. Don’t stick your hands in the degreaser even if it’s biodegradable…

Also snagged a tool/parts cart so I don’t have to keep running around digging through ammo cans looking for a 12mm short socket etc. still have to put that together.
View attachment 3177890View attachment 3177891View attachment 3177892View attachment 3177893

if i missed this detail , i apologize


- do you have a PAPER PRINT MEDIA TAN 2F FSM on-hand , in your Hands right now ?


- because PDF's suck , and always seam to be missing pages ,and the battery never dies on a paper book you saddle over the fender OLD SKOOL STYLE !


- let me know ,if you don't


matt

 

[cps432]

if i missed this detail , i apologize


- do you have a PAPER PRINT MEDIA TAN 2F FSM on-hand , in your Hands right now ?


- because PDF's suck , and always seam to be missing pages ,and the battery never dies on a paper book you saddle over the fender OLD SKOOL STYLE !


- let me know ,if you don't


matt

You know I do! Complete with duct tape spine cover and greasy fingerprints. I’ve got a pretty good collection going here. I printed out the emissions control manual back when I had those systems because pdf on the computer sucks. I don’t like cleaning grease off my laptop. Greasy FSM shows you’re not some poser.

I found most of these tucked under the carpet in the passenger footwell when I bought my truck. It’s like the lord sent me an Angel with an instruction manual! They live under the driver’s seat now.

My one beef with the engine manual from 1980 is that I have found several bolt sizes to have changed at some point on later models and thus the torque values are not the same across the years. It’s a minor headache to have to turn to the back of the manual and look up general torque values for different bolt sizes, but it’s very nice to have on hand and I couldn’t have done what I’ve done so far without the TEq Bibles.

Image upload is acting funky right now. I have the (Heavy-Duty) chassis and body manual from 1984 as well. Got my bases pretty well covered, but there’s always more information I want to have. A transmission Bible for the 5 speed and transfer-case would be nice.

 

[cps432]

 

[cps432]

 

[cps432]

I’m tired.