Thoughts on these turbo fins... (1 Viewer)

[Dusten]

Pictures aren't the greatest. I can attempt better if requested.

I had the intake tube off to clean it out and noticed some damage to the the turbo blades

 

[mudgudgeon]

That first photo is no go for me.

I'd be parking it, and swapping it out ASAP.

Do you have a shrapnel collection device on the intake?

If it lets go and you don't have an intercooler, plan on a full engine rebuild.
I had a turbo disintegrate, and had beads and chunks of alloy impellor throughout the engine.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Also look at play in the shaft. A tiny bit of play side to side is ok, any play in and out is an absolute no.

Regardless, I wouldn't run it. If you want to roll the dice, check the shaft play.

 

[Dusten]

Well it's already parked. It's not my dd anymore.

I will call a few places about rebuilds tomorrow.

There's a shop in California that does ct26 rebuilds for all versions and they have good reviews. The rebuild looks to be about $500 or so.

 

[Dougal]

I've run worse. I've also cleaned them up with emery with no ill effects (total balance change is negligable as long as you're careful).

I'd be more concerned with what went through it. You have filter issues and maybe now engine issues.

 

[Dusten]

I've run worse. I've also cleaned them up with emery with no ill effects (total balance change is negligable as long as you're careful).

I'd be more concerned with what went through it. You have filter issues and maybe now engine issues.

It may have had filter issues at one point perhaps. I know it doesn't know. I've only had the rig a year. So I honestly don't know how old those marks are.

The engine runs fine. Starts quickly. Has good power. Doesn't smoke. I'm not concerned with the engine.

 

[Dusten]

Also from a local cruiser group i found a shop locally I'll hit up too

 

[KiwiDingo]

Also look at play in the shaft. A tiny bit of play side to side is ok, any play in and out is an absolute no.

This is incorrect and not how journal bearing turbos work. You will always have some in and out play (axial play) by the design of the bearing system, it'll never be zero. The specs for the CT26 allowable play is 0.13mm axial and 0.18mm radial or less.

 

[veiloctane]

Pictures aren't the greatest. I can attempt better if requested.

I had the intake tube off to clean it out and noticed some damage to the the turbo blades

View attachment 3177148

View attachment 3177149

Any little groves or markings indicated something has gone in contact with the blades. Recommend to replace and upgrade.

 

[Dusten]

Any little groves or markings indicated something has gone in contact with the blades. Recommend to replace and upgrade.

No upgrade. I'll have it rebuilt.

 

[mudgudgeon]

This is incorrect and not how journal bearing turbos work. You will always have some in and out play (axial play) by the design of the bearing system, it'll never be zero. The specs for the CT26 allowable play is 0.13mm axial and 0.18mm radial or less.

You're literally splitting hairs.

If you can feel axial play, it exceeds you 0.13mm (human hair is around 0.12).

My understanding is that Axial play is more likely to allow the impeller to contact the housing. Changes in boost and exhaust gas pressure push the shaft back and forth axially.
If a compressor floats forward and contacts the housing at 100,000 rpm, you're left with shrapnel.
Thrust washers do wear and fail.

Radial play is more forgiving and better taken up with oil film in the journal bearings, so less likely to contact the housing.

Radial play is measured at the shaft centreline. 0.18mm play at the shaft centre line could be a lot more at the impeller due to leverage ratio. Which is why a small amount of radial play can be more easily felt, and slightly less of a concern than axial play.

From the 1HD-T FSM

 

[mudgudgeon]

No upgrade. I'll have it rebuilt.

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Almost bolt in, and most would consider it an upgrade (I know KiwiDingo won't).

Shipped to you would be close to your $500 rebuild price.

Very slight oil and waterline line differences, but OEM parts are available.
Intake pipe to manifold would need a solution.
Exhaust will bolt up.

 

[Dusten]

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Almost bolt in, and most would consider it an upgrade (I know KiwiDingo won't).

Shipped to you would be close to your $500 rebuild price.

Very slight oil and waterline line differences, but OEM parts are available.
Intake pipe to manifold would need a solution.
Exhaust will bolt up.

Why would I spend 500 on a unit that's used and needs modifications to work when I can send mine to reputable shop for the same money?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Why would I spend 500 on a unit that's used and needs modifications to work when I can send mine to reputable shop for the same money?

Why not?
It's an option.

It's Toyota's turbo upgrade for this series of engines.
Newer more efficient design. Larger compressor, so you can have higher air flow without pushing higher boost.
More efficient combustion, lower EGTs, more power potential.
More efficient turbine design.
Smaller turbine housing which gives earlier low rpm boost. Fatter torque curve, improved low end torque. improves driveability on and off road.

 

[Dusten]

Why not?
It's an option.

It's Toyota's turbo upgrade for this series of engines.
Newer more efficient design. Larger compressor, so you can have higher air flow without pushing higher boost.
More efficient combustion, lower EGTs, more power potential.
More efficient turbine design.
Smaller turbine housing which gives earlier low rpm boost. Fatter torque curve, improved low end torque. improves driveability on and off road.

Because
a) I don't care to modify the truck to try and fit a non stock turbo

B) I'll be getting a turbo in unknown condition.

C) I'll be spending more for unknowns and mild gains. It's not a net positive.

 

[mudgudgeon]

There's many options for these trucks, but if you want to keep it stock, and you're happy with that $500 rebuild ain't a bad option.

 

[KiwiDingo]

You're literally splitting hairs.

If you can feel axial play, it exceeds you 0.13mm (human hair is around 0.12).

I can most certainly feel the axial movement even when it's still within the 0.13mm tolerance. Pretty easy to feel and get used to the movement actually, you'd be surprised by how little movement you can actually feel. But I guess if your hands aren't very tactile or getting old it'll be harder to feel but there's always movement which can be measured if not always felt by everyone.

 

[Dusten]

There's many options for these trucks, but if you want to keep it stock, and you're happy with that $500 rebuild ain't a bad option.

I have never once driven this and wanted more power. It handles like s***. It has some of the worst brakes I've ever seen on a car this new. And I've upgraded them to 97 lx450 brakes.

I've read through the options. Cost and availability are a big thing. Remember, I'm in the us. Getting a turbo shipped here isn't fast or cheap. The rebuild shop is a 2 day trip via the mail.
A stock rebuilt turbo from gturbo is $1000 plus shipping. The green is like $1700. That's money that can be spent elsewhere on this.

It does freeway speeds with ease. It's taken me anywhere I've wanted off-road.

 

[KiwiDingo]

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Almost bolt in, and most would consider it an upgrade (I know KiwiDingo won't).

Shipped to you would be close to your $500 rebuild price.

Very slight oil and waterline line differences, but OEM parts are available.
Intake pipe to manifold would need a solution.
Exhaust will bolt up.

Yep you're right. The FTE CT20b turbo is a downgrade from the CT26 in so many areas that I look for. It's a much smaller turbo where it matters than the CT26 and I'd never do that.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have never once driven this and wanted more power. It handles like s***. It has some of the worst brakes I've ever seen on a car this new

Sorry you bought a shìt box