Rollercams straps are sweet. Been using a set for 10 years.I just emailed RollerCam and asked them if they would be a supporting vender here and possibly do a strap for us that said IH8MUD. We’ll see?!
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Rollercams straps are sweet. Been using a set for 10 years.I just emailed RollerCam and asked them if they would be a supporting vender here and possibly do a strap for us that said IH8MUD. We’ll see?!
I like the quantity and lengths offered in the overlanding kit, what stopped me from buying was that there wasn't an option to buy all loop ends, which for me is also a big differentiator for their solution (after the roller part).I bought the "overlanding" kit awhile ago but will be buying more loop straps. They're my favorite to use.
Interesting. I bought a couple loop ends a few years ago and they don't get used much. I tend to use double length straps and loop on themselves. Perhaps I should be using the loops more.I like the quantity and lengths offered in the overlanding kit, what stopped me from buying was that there wasn't an option to buy all loop ends, which for me is also a big differentiator for their solution (after the roller part).
For applications where the hook doesn't work well, like what you mentioned or anchoring to a point where the hook won't fit, I feed a section of the strap through the anchor point, back through the hook's eye, then that loop goes around the hook. Once pulled tight it stays put even when the strap is loose. I hope that makes sense.Clarification: what I don't like about hooks is if they aren't kept under tension (shifting load, something that compresses), they can slip or come off. When they hold fast, they work well.
Thanks, that had actually never occurred to me. That's a great idea. I feel like a dope now...For applications where the hook doesn't work well, like what you mentioned or anchoring to a point where the hook won't fit, I feed a section of the strap through the anchor point, back through the hook's eye, then that loop goes around the hook. Once pulled tight it stays put even when the strap is loose. I hope that makes sense.
The loop end straps sound good but this is how I am getting by with the pile of hooks that have built up over the years.
Don’t worry about it.I was wondering where other fuse blocks were. I found the information in the manual. Are there any fragile plastic tabs I should be aware of before getting into the driver or passenger fuses?
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Apologies on resurrecting a long-ago-addressed thread... Is it possible to swap these end links without touching the shock mounting? Wondering if anyone has slotted a crows foot or offset wrench in there for the nut inside the cavity, behind the shock bolt? Don't have either in the right size so just thought I'd source some intel before buying one or the other.Easier just to replace the whole sway bar end link.
Oh, cool. I just glanced the other day and saw a hex head behind there and assumed it was a freestanding nut. Thanks for the intel!The hole where the lower link mount bolt attaches to the lower control arm isn't a nut, it is a blind threaded hole. I don't see why you couldn't replace the swaybar end links leaving the shock in place.
Well, I should say that it was captive on both of the 200 series I've owned.Oh, cool. I just glanced the other day and saw a hex head behind there and assumed it was a freestanding nut. Thanks for the intel!
Don't worry, if someone is going to run into an anomalous exception, it'll be me.Well, I should say that it was captive on both of the 200 series I've owned.
Have you checked the bulbs? I replaced mine with brighter LEDs and they have both blown out twice. Although the first time one caught on fire briefly and toasted the whole light assembly.I need help with some ideas on why my reverse lights are not working?
The vehicle reverse lights are not working but the trailer reverse lights are working.
The 10 amp fuse called "BKUP LP" under the driver dash is ok.
The 7.5 amp fuse called TRLR BKUP under the glove box is ok.
What else could cause the vehicle backup lights to not work? Any Ideas?
I was re-wiring my rear ARB bumper signal lights so that they worked wired off the trailer plug harness.
I accidently shorted the yellow trailer back light up wire when installing the re-wire, so it popped the 7.5 amp fuse for the trailer backup lights located under the glove box.
I finished wiring the 2 way to 3 way device for the signal lights and now all the signal, brake and running lights all work as they should.
I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse and the trailer backup lights are now working BUT the vehicle backup lights are not.
Maybe I'm looking at the wrong fuse or is there another fuse some where?
The Osram 35W 12V GY6.35 is by far the best reverse light upgrade. They are better than any led.Have you checked the bulbs? I replaced mine with brighter LEDs and they have both blown out twice. Although the first time one caught on fire briefly and toasted the whole light assembly.
I just did the Sylvanias. I have no other LED to compare to, but they’re much better than factory.The Osram 35W 12V GY6.35 is by far the best reverse light upgrade. They are better than any led.
Amazon product ASIN B001BMUFN8