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JohnVee said:
Trunion bearing studs and knuckle studs are the same thing? And steering arm studs? No sarcasm there. I have a hard time with all the nomenclature - like propellor shaft/drive shaft. Serious question because the FSM and parts lists often are different from the terms we usually use in the USA.
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On an 80, yes.
 
We can see the PS arm hanging down in the first picture you posted...... you didn't need to go back for more really.

Check your studs and check your nuts is an 80 series mantra. @NLXTACY sells patches and decals to remind you lol. This happenes quite a lot all things considered. Sucks it happened when you aren't home. First thing im doing toy 80 after the motor install is changing all of mine out.
 
So the shop that I left it at got in touch with me this morning. She said it’ll be at least a week and said to be prepared for at least an hour of trouble shooting to figure out the issue at $150 an hour. Not super ideal. Do y’all think it’s best to just let them handle it or would another shop or something else be smarter? It’s a shame I’m not in chapel hill to deal with it myself.
 
I carry this in the rear drawer to check my nuts
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KRHJ3LP

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fordoford said:
So the shop that I left it at got in touch with me this morning. She said it’ll be at least a week and said to be prepared for at least an hour of trouble shooting to figure out the issue at $150 an hour. Not super ideal. Do y’all think it’s best to just let them handle it or would another shop or something else be smarter? It’s a shame I’m not in chapel hill to deal with it myself.
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When are you going to be back in town?
 
roflbox said:
When are you going to be back in town?
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Well ideally I would come back once it’s fixed to pick it up, but I’m not sure spending hundreds of dollars on something that doesn’t seem all that difficult makes a ton of sense.
 
The studs will break off if they're not kept tight. Nothing really to diagnose more than I've told you. All reality probably have those old studs out new ones in back together in less than an hour.

I would recommend some point in time in the near future going back in to the knuckle and replacing that inner seal. But the shop would probably charge you a 500 bucks to do that. How long has it been since you've gone through the front axle service,grease and seals
 
I think swapping shops is a moot point as you’ll have to pay for a tow which would offset any potential savings. Short of auto logic letting you keep it there while you gather hardware and go fix it yourself, I don’t see any other cheaper option then letting them fix it.

From the pics it looks like you are potentially missing 2 studs and broke the other two.

It seems like you’ll need to extract the broken ones and replace all 4 with associated cone washers nuts and such. Given the one side is like that, I’d be getting all new studs and hardware to check out both sides while I was at it.
 
Check the driver side and tighten to spec, but I've never seen a driver side stud shear off. It seems to always happen on the passenger side. This is because the passenger side does twice the amount of work. It gets input from pittman arm and the relay rod and then has to transfer that load to the tie rod, which in turn operates the driver side.
 
The shop just got in touch with me. He said he looked at it and won’t be able to fix the trunion joint because it requires some type of tool? Says I’ll have to get it towed to the dealership and they’re the only ones who will be able to do it. Spending more money is so fun!
 
Well, if there were any shims on the steering arm, they're gone now, so they're not technically wrong. The knuckle should be recentered.

Apparently I know nothing about 80s, carry on, lol.
 
For an 80 the shims are on top only.
And control steering resistance.
NO special tools needed for the 80.

The shop doesn't know what they are looking at.

If you want to get it towed to my house I'll help you fix it. I'm a good 45 minutes south though
 
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Shop has no idea what it's talking about. Your choices here are
Find a reputable cruiser shop and tow it there.
Check it out yourself and fix but this sounds like it's beyond you.
It may be a pain to get to to a reputable shop. Ut shops like you have it about will either refuse it or gouge you with things not needed.
 
fourtrax said:
If you want to get it towed to my house I'll help you fix it. I'm a good 45 minutes south though
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Well worth the towing charge. You might just learn something along the way as well!
 
@fordoford Take @fourtrax up on his offer. It’ll be fixed properly, you can learn a few things, and the floor of his shop is heated! Well worth the tow cost, and you’ll probably still save money.
 
JohnVee said:
@fordoford Take @fourtrax up on his offer. It’ll be fixed properly, you can learn a few things, and the floor of his shop is heated! Well worth the tow cost, and you’ll probably still save money.
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Hey @fordoford I'm right around the corner and can help as well. Quick and easy job assuming no other major damage.
 
It always helps to have other club members check yer nutz, its the first thing I do when I run into @custyota lol

Seriously take Eric up on his offer dude..... he is a stand up guy with a wealth of knowledge.
 
lt1fire said:
It always helps to have other club members check yer nutz, its the first thing I do when I run into @custyota lol

Seriously take Eric up on his offer dude..... he is a stand up guy with a wealth of knowledge.
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I ordered the parts and I’m having it towed over to him soon! Will go up this weekend to fix it. I’m excited to learn how to do it
 
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