just bought a 96 80.... (1 Viewer)

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I would remote mount the control pack inside the bumper to where you can either reach it with the remote plug or remote mount a plug in or on the bumper. I’ve had two ARBs and there is a lot of room in there. I’ve done with with an ARB on and FJ Cruiser and a other brand of bumper. Works well. Downside is you loose the ability to access the control pack unless you remove the bumper.

I would replace the solenoids with a contactor. This will reduce the risk of a problem with accessing your control pack in the bumper.

If you look at the picture, the little round nub in the front is the remote mounted plug.
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You asked about how to check the valve clearance. This video is helpful to explain it. It is not hard.
 
I just bought a 1996 with 373k on the odometer and 188k on the engine. Your thread is very helpful to me, thanks for sharing the resurrection. Lots of good ideas here.
 
I just bought a 1996 with 373k on the odometer and 188k on the engine. Your thread is very helpful to me, thanks for sharing the resurrection. Lots of good ideas here.
glad I could help. i have attacked nearly every system and replaced wear components. It is now leak free and seems reliable. I still have the power steering noise. it is rather bizarre.
 
You asked about how to check the valve clearance. This video is helpful to explain it. It is not hard.

thankfully, valves were not changed and no noise from them. thanks for the post.
 
I would remote mount the control pack inside the bumper to where you can either reach it with the remote plug or remote mount a plug in or on the bumper. I’ve had two ARBs and there is a lot of room in there. I’ve done with with an ARB on and FJ Cruiser and a other brand of bumper. Works well. Downside is you loose the ability to access the control pack unless you remove the bumper.

I would replace the solenoids with a contactor. This will reduce the risk of a problem with accessing your control pack in the bumper.

If you look at the picture, the little round nub in the front is the remote mounted plug. View attachment 3165565
I saw where one guy mounted solenoid under the hood. I have room in front of the battery for it. I actually like that alot. i will have to get new leads made to reach out front. leaning hard to doing it that way.
 
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I have a couple nit picky items left.

1.) how to disable ABS light after CDL switch install and 7 pin mod?

2.) air bag occasionally blinking red

3.) oil teapot blinking yellow intermittently. Thinking about disabling instead of $450 replacement. your thought?
 
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I have a couple nit picky items left.

1.) how to disable ABS light after CDL seotch install and 7 pin mod?

2.) air bag occasionally blinking red

3.) oil teapot blinking yellow intermittently. Thinking about disabling instead of $450 replacement. your thought?
Try the ABS reset trick- i got the ABS light after steering wheel removal:

1) Get two separate longish wires (another SST!)
2) At the DTC put one wire in the Tc terminal and one in the AB terminal
3) Turn the ignition to on or acc for 6 seconds (leave it in on or acc)
4) Go to the wires in the DTC and do the following
a) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
b) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
c) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
d) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
e) Tc to ground for several seconds (5 according to the FSM)
5) ABS light should flash rapidly and reset

Those seconds can be finicky so try to finesse the timing- I had to try 2-3 times before it worked right.
 
Try the ABS reset trick- i got the ABS light after steering wheel removal:

1) Get two separate longish wires (another SST!)
2) At the DTC put one wire in the Tc terminal and one in the AB terminal
3) Turn the ignition to on or acc for 6 seconds (leave it in on or acc)
4) Go to the wires in the DTC and do the following
a) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
b) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
c) Tc to ground for 1 second, remove
d) AB to ground for 1 second, remove
e) Tc to ground for several seconds (5 according to the FSM)
5) ABS light should flash rapidly and reset

Those seconds can be finicky so try to finesse the timing- I had to try 2-3 times before it worked right.
the ABS is permanently on because I did the 7 pin mod after modifying T case to Part time 4WD. I want to disable the wire. the syatem has been permanently disabled due to the 7 pin mod.
 
I have been scratching my head. after about 400 miles, I still have the rubbing, squealing, noise near the power steering pump. I have replaced pump once. It gets better after it warms up, but doesnt go away. Is there an alignment required when installing power steering pump or something that I am missing? could it be something else?
 
I have been scratching my head. after about 400 miles, I still have the rubbing, squealing, noise near the power steering pump. I have replaced pump once. It gets better after it warms up, but doesnt go away. Is there an alignment required when installing power steering pump or something that I am missing? could it be something else?
Any chance the gear got nicked? Did you measure the gear spacing before and after swapping over to new pump?
 
the ABS is permanently on because I did the 7 pin mod after modifying T case to Part time 4WD

The ABS light is on because of the part-time conversion, not because of the pin 7 mod. Unless you relocated the tone rings, that is.

The only thing that the pin 7 mod does is prevent the transfer case from locking automatically when you shift to low range.

After converting to part time, the only time your ABS light should ever turn off is if you lock the front hubs but leave the transfer case unlocked.

Incidentally, I would advise you to remove the ABS fuse. I had two separate occasions where the ABS engaged while driving with the front hubs unlocked. Presumably, the Birfields jiggled just right such that the ABS sensor(s) momentarily thought they were getting a signal from the front tone rings, decided that the front wheels must be locked up, and effectively killed my braking by engaging ABS.
 
The ABS light is on because of the part-time conversion, not because of the pin 7 mod. Unless you relocated the tone rings, that is.

The only thing that the pin 7 mod does is prevent the transfer case from locking automatically when you shift to low range.

After converting to part time, the only time your ABS light should ever turn off is if you lock the front hubs but leave the transfer case unlocked.

Incidentally, I would advise you to remove the ABS fuse. I had two separate occasions where the ABS engaged while driving with the front hubs unlocked. Presumably, the Birfields jiggled just right such that the ABS sensor(s) momentarily thought they were getting a signal from the front tone rings, decided that the front wheels must be locked up, and effectively killed my braking by engaging ABS.
I think removing the ABS fuse is the solution I have been needing. When i did the PT conversion, I replaced birfs with (IIRC) 1993 pre ABS and also, maybe from AUS with a slightly shorter length so the C clips would be correct. I purchased so many parts, it is difficult to remember. I think may have picked them up from Cruiser Outfitters. The guy there has a 96 like mine and had done the PT conversion too. super helpful.
 
ignorance......today, I discovered reading other people's threads that there is an oil pump impeller bushing that is pretty much only available from landtank. This has me scratching my head about my sqialing up front. At 348k miles, I have done everything that you just about everytjing you can do without overhauling the engine. Before I started work, engine made no sounds, purred like a kitten. When servicing the oil pump gasket, I noticed some rub marks on the oil pump cover. I reassembled and when I started from after head gasket and all hoses and everything else I did, the squealing started. from the first time.


IS IT POSSIBLE THAT THE OIL PUMP BUSHING HAS SPUN? OR IS SPINNING? CAN I RUN ENGINE WITH POWER STEERING PUMP OFF BLOCK TO FURTHER ISOLATE IT?
 
Any chance the gear got nicked? Did you measure the gear spacing before and after swapping over to new pump?
i actually replaced the power steering pump with another new one and re-examined the gear again when swapping it over. Gear looks great. depth was checked again, IIRC at 5/8".

i am wrestling with what can be causing this.
 
I decided to drive with the noise until it gets worse while checking periodically for its source.

As a side note, I had not set the timing using the jumper wire and have been getting 10 mpg. Before heading to Table Rock this weekend, I checked it and set it to about 6 degrees btdc. After 400 miles of mostly 60 mph cruising, I am pleased to report a solid 13.99 mpg. longest drive since all of the work was done and everything performed perfectly.
 
is there a source for used parts on the forum? I am ready for my rear bumper, but wanted to check used ones first. Tire carrier and a stout rear bumper.... anyone have one for sale?
 
is there a source for used parts on the forum? I am ready for my rear bumper, but wanted to check used ones first. Tire carrier and a stout rear bumper.... anyone have one for sale?
yes...the classified section
 

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