TTT -- The Tool Thread (5 Viewers)

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what do people do for soldering irons for larger gauge automotive wires?
the ones I have seem to be ok with smaller wires, but when I look at 16 gauge or larger, they dont really seem to work
(might be the result of them being cheap (unsurprisingly))

I haven't found a good one for 12ga or larger yet. End up stripping more than I need to and use a torch, small butane one. If you find a good high wattage soldering iron, make sure to post it here.

For below 12ga I have a Wagner pistol style one. Works pretty good.

Soldering automotive wires, not on a PCB, isn't recommended due to the vibration present during operation. That, and the fact that's it's much quicker in a production environment, is why automotive connections are typically crimped.

Speed is the primary reason. Vibration will kill any wire, solder or not, if not properly retained. You're right, it's not always best to solder, but it's not something to avoid either, especially for permanent connections/splices/repairs.

Point is, wire management is key. Retaining wiring harness properly makes everything last longer.
 
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I haven't found a good one for 12ga or larger yet. End up stripping more than I need to and use a torch, small butane one. If you find a good high wattage soldering iron, make sure to post it here.

For below 12ga I have a Wagner pistol style one. Works pretty good.



Speed is the primary reason. Vibration will kill any wire, solder or not, if not properly retained. You're right, it's not always best to solder, but it's not something to avoid either, especially for permanent connections/splices/repairs.

Point is, wire management is key. Retaining wiring harness properly makes everything last longer.
I picked up a home incinerator special from orielys, seems to have done ok for 16GA wires.

Mostly my objective is soldering in connectors on lights (light bar in this case), as the crimp fittings I got with the kit were trash.

did solder, and then marine shrink wrap around the splices
 
Anyone have a resource for reloading/troubleshooting a grease gun? I may have had a bad run, but mine consistently leak, won't develop pressure, etc. I have no doubt I am doing at least one thing wrong as they will work great right out of the box when I first load/use them, but over time this success drops. TIA!
 
Anyone have a resource for reloading/troubleshooting a grease gun? I may have had a bad run, but mine consistently leak, won't develop pressure, etc. I have no doubt I am doing at least one thing wrong as they will work great right out of the box when I first load/use them, but over time this success drops. TIA!
Interested as well - I don't buy expensive guns, but have had two go bad after just 1-2 uses.
 
Here's the Alemite webapge. You'll have to look for your model, since you didn't say which one you have.
 
Here's the Alemite webapge. You'll have to look for your model, since you didn't say which one you have.
Thanks for the link. I have a couple pistol grip grease guns with a lock-n-lube nozzle and flexible hose attachment I bought from any mixture of Napa, Home Depot, amazon, and John Deere. The $30 pistol grip grease guns I have bought from HD have lasted about the same as the $95 Deere gun I thought would have made it be of higher quality. Of note, I did have to go with the McJunior (lucas oil) grease gun variant at a HD near my father in law's house because it included the small amount of grease I'd need and it was more convenient. I haven't tried it since the initial use, but I'd imagine it has since sh*t the bed too.

EDIT: Anyone try the "lock n lube" grease gun variant that's on amazon? approx $70
 
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I have the original Alemite version. It's the bomb.
 
that's the one

Alemite invented the grease gun
 
Had a similar experience with every grease gun I've owned until I got my Lincoln 1162 pneumatic grease gun. It's awesome. Lock and lube attachment makes it epic.
 
Had a similar experience with every grease gun I've owned until I got my Lincoln 1162 pneumatic grease gun. It's awesome. Lock and lube attachment makes it epic.
Anyone have experience with any battery powered options? namely from makita?
 
Anyone have experience with any battery powered options? namely from makita?

Not personally, but I've heard good things from both yellow and red brands. No clue on makita.
 
I have the Lincoln 1134 and it works great. Lock n load tip is a must for any gun.
Lock n lube is legit! I just got another one with a longer nozzle with the hopes it will make the spiders easier to get to. I'm leaning towards trying a Makita battery operated one. The marginal cost is not as high as I thought compared to Alemite that I have seen. I still need to look into Lincoln options.
 
Home Depot has some pretty good deals on power tools right now. I just picked up a Milwaukee M18 Fuel grinder and 2 5ah M18 batteries for $200.

Lots of deals on all brands.
Lowes has a similar deal for Dewalt. (2) 5mah batteries with fast charger and bag for $200. Purchase online and you get to add one choice of many 20v bare tools for free.

 
I have the Lincoln 1134 and it works great. Lock n load tip is a must for any gun.
I have the same combination and it's good. I've had issues reaching some zerks on the driveshafts with the lock-n-load tip.
 
Speed is the primary reason. Vibration will kill any wire, solder or not, if not properly retained. You're right, it's not always best to solder, but it's not something to avoid either, especially for permanent connections/splices/repairs.

Point is, wire management is key. Retaining wiring harness properly makes everything last longer.
coming back around to this.

any good crimped connection recommendations?
are the cheap connectors on amazon just as good, or is there a nicer brand one could use?
 
coming back around to this.

any good crimped connection recommendations?
are the cheap connectors on amazon just as good, or is there a nicer brand one could use?

I've not found a basic one I like more than any other. I tend to get the cheap vinyl ones, press the metal crimp barrel out of the vinyl sleeve with a small phillips head, then crimp onto the wire and use my own marine type heat shrink.

Del City for large electronics orders, but whatever is on amazon also works:
 

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