Builds fj62 gets a lift (2 Viewers)

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finished up the pump install last night to find my batteries were dead from sitting so long. charged them up but still couldn’t get it to start until 4-5 tries throughout the day. then she came to life and seems to be running nicely. second start it was running almost before i finished turning the key on. IM SO HAPPY!!

now onto the next issue. rust control. i had an area of paint flake off last winter and the gremlins have been at work since then making it a much bigger area. so here we go. i’ve never really done any proper body work so we’ll see if i can figure this out

grinding and sanding out the old filler and rust followed by a coating of rust mort. next will be new filler tonight
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any body experts chime in with advice as you like. i’m 95% green! 🙃
 
franklin40 said:
any body experts chime in with advice as you like. i’m 95% green! 🙃
Click to expand...
In my experience, even if there is a little teeny bit of rust left in some pitting and you removed 99% of it, the rust will eventually come through the new paint. Now, the question is if that teeny weeny bit of rust is treated with a rust converter, will it then regrow? I think generally, no, as long as it is properly converted and the new paint going overtop is thick and complete.

Otherwise, you need to sandblast or file to perfect cleanliness.

Edit: oh I see there is no vertical seam at the bottom of the saddle there where the two panels come together, which there should be if original. As you said, someone filled in over it. So yeah, you are dealing with the result of an imperfect previous rust removal covered with filler.
 
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actually the issue was self inflicted. i was standing on the tire with a thick winter boot. when i jumped down the rubber toe pealed an area of paint off the lip of the fender. from there the rust gremlins went to work. oh well. i think i’ve got it pretty well sanded and converted. if not i guess i’ll get better at body work!
 
and while the body filler is drying why not do an oil pan seal! it was time for an oil change anyway and i’ve got a bad leak somewhere. it’s driving me nuts. i hope this fixes it
image.jpg
 
little progress. gotta keep the two projects separate. i don’t want to contaminate the body with oil!

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the seam on the left is some paint protection film. it’s getting sanded a little and it won’t be repairable so i think i’ll remove that whole piece and then get it done again.
 
oil pan back on (man that’s a dirty job) and filled with oil. i’m going to start daily driving it again tomorrow. i’m pumped
 
after all my starting issues this summer my starter finally pooched it. i had to get my dad to pull start me the other day in the hospital parking lot. it’s was so snowy though that the moment i dropped the clutch my rear tires would just skid! must have looked funny watching me get towed around and around until i could find a patch of pavement. anyway got my new starter today

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got it installed and now it starts better than ever. it’s running before i even get the key fully turned over!! i’m so glad to get this going again!!

i also had to fix my headlight. i had a shop do a bit of wiring in the process of getting my truck to run. they had a bad ground to the harness made for my jw speaker lights. in the process though i found i have a parasitic draw. another ground wire was sparking a little as i was tinkering. so now that’s another project for another night. have to find out where that wire goes and see why i have power to it when the truck is off. i’ve left it off for now. fun times.

oh yeah i ordered some paint matched paint to finish the body work i had to do. should have it tomorrow.
 
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New parts always look awesome. I love the JW speaker headlights on my 62. I haven’t had the opportunity to test the heater element in the lenses. Have you had the opportunity to use them in snow? I’m curious about how well they’ll deal with snow on them.
 
yeah i’ve had them for a couple years. they work great. i had one element burn out though just before warranty was up so i was able to get a replacement. the element on the new one is a little different hopefully it holds up better.
 
my speedometer ratio converter has broken for the last time😡

the one on the left is a crappy in line design that has broken three times. the last time it broke they “fixed it” so it’d never break again. well it broke again. each time it broke i’d send it back and it’d take three months to have it returned. and even when it worked it had a bounce to the needle.

so i got fed up with that company and went with the one on the right from Speedometer Cables USA in Denver, Colorado - https://speedometercablesusa.com/

it was in the mail in three days and is such a better design than the in line one. and this is truly a screw it on and done. the other one i had to adapt my cable to a square end while the new one is set up for the toyota cable end!
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with my h55 and 33inch fires i was about 11% fast. this should get me real close to exact speed
 
:hmm:hummm, gonna go n get torfab to shovel in 2 more cylinders in a V formation?:hmm:
or gonna get shifty cuz you're not happy with shiftless?:grinpimp:
 
so ive been having a ton of problems with my 4plus swing outs. in the environment i drive they seize up with dirt and rust all the time making them dang near impossible to open. while they are a sturdy design the bushing design is not for me. ive tried the oils that have been recommended ive added grease zerks and greased them regularly. winters are the worse and most problematic because any moisture that gets in just freezes. i just ordered some spindles with bearings from 4x4labs. not meaning to disrespect the 4plus product. my bumpers are still my favourite ones available and if i knew what i know now i would still buy them again and swap spindles. i just need to be able to open my trunk! once they get here ill pull the rear bumper off and get to work. i might get the swing outs and basket galvanized before coating them again too! theyre starting to rust. i h8rust!
 
franklin40 said:
so ive been having a ton of problems with my 4plus swing outs. in the environment i drive they seize up with dirt and rust all the time making them dang near impossible to open. while they are a sturdy design the bushing design is not for me. ive tried the oils that have been recommended ive added grease zerks and greased them regularly. winters are the worse and most problematic because any moisture that gets in just freezes. i just ordered some spindles with bearings from 4x4labs. not meaning to disrespect the 4plus product. my bumpers are still my favourite ones available and if i knew what i know now i would still buy them again and swap spindles. i just need to be able to open my trunk! once they get here ill pull the rear bumper off and get to work. i might get the swing outs and basket galvanized before coating them again too! theyre starting to rust. i h8rust!
Click to expand...
I'd love to see this documented. I have some of the same problems with mine and I'm in Oklahoma... Apparently they had a bad batch go out with bad powdercoat and incorrectly sized hitch receivers. I had to file mine to take a hitch or bike rack and have to use a lot of grease or it gets stuck. Would love a different latch as well. Like you said, not to bash the company because I do love the bumper.
 
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