Shops says fix it - thoughts? Price? (1 Viewer)

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Hey everyone - was at the local Lexus shop (not dealer) getting my oil changed on my 2003 Lexus LX470. I have 273K miles and she looks and runs great. As usual the shop has some recommendations, but since I am novice, and the shop is obviously incented for me to spend more, I thought i would ask the experts. here is what they say:

1. Front bearings need to be repacked. See pic. $602 to fix

2. Oil leak in the power steering column. They rate this leak at "8/10" where 10/10 is awful. See pic. $1807 to fix.

3. Front passenger side axle leak - 8/10 again. See pic. $379 to fix

What do you think?

They also said the timing belt should be changed every $90K and I am just over. I know from research before buying the truck this is the most important item and I will do it for sure. They charge $1800 to change: timing belt, water pump, crank seal, thermostat, timing belt idler, oull, tensioner and drive belt

Thoughts?

Thanks everyone! Such a great community!

Front bearking packed.jpg


Power steering rack leak.jpg


Front axle leak.jpg
 
I just did this job myself on my 99 LX470. Do it. Pricing is on par for parts. Labor is always ridiculous. But you are paying for someone's time, education, and tools. If you need a local rec let me know. If you are at Lextechs let them handle it as they are awesome. Also, see @MongooseGA he knows some good folks as well.
 
The bearing repack and axle leak should be your first priorities, be warned however the bearing repack and axle leak could lead to other things being discovered and needing replacement. The timing belt if a good idea to do soon, their quote on the power steering rack had better be a full replacement with OEM. Items 1-3 are doable on your own if you have experience working on vehicles, this is where many people on the forum start getting their feet wet. The timing belt service is also doable on your own, just depends on if you have access to tools and some basic experience turning a wrench.
 
How often are you refilling your power steering reservoir? If not often some AT-205 Re-seal may hold you over a little longer.

And that sounds ridiculously high for the front bearing repacking. If you have the time and tools it’s a great place for even a novice to start. There are some intricacies involved that someone else can easily overlook, but nothing about it is difficult. Great instructions on here.
 
i would not let the front axle seal keep leaking, you diff will run dry eventually, and grenade itself. Big $ if that happens. it's not that hard of a job, but you need the right tools and shop manual/ youtube videos / & time. The bearing repack is done at the same time, so you might as well get both done or do both at the same time yourself.

the power steering leak seems like the least urgent
 
1 - at your mileage, I'd probably suggest replacing all the hub bearings vs. repacking. Kits are available from Cruiser Outfitters that have all the pieces you'd need.
2 - price is high for this, OEM rack is like $700ish, I paid an indie Toyota shop $500 to install
3 - I'd ask a little more on this one - is that price to reboot? Is that replacing with a non-OEM axle?
4 - high price again. You can get the Aisin timing belt kit, again Cruiser Outfitters, for about $200, then labor usually seems to be $500ish.
 
I just did this job myself on my 99 LX470. Do it. Pricing is on par for parts. Labor is always ridiculous. But you are paying for someone's time, education, and tools. If you need a local rec let me know. If you are at Lextechs let them handle it as they are awesome. Also, see @MongooseGA he knows some good folks as well.
Which services specifically did you do? Yes, at LexTech.
 
Shop is drastically overpriced. you should be able to repack the bearings and maybe even do the timing belt job yourself. There are some really good videos out there by OTRAMM. Put some lucas power steering stop leak in the power steering reservoir and that should take care of it for a while. Those prices are higher than most dealer prices.
 
Which services specifically did you do? Yes, at LexTech.
Literally, everything mentioned. I learned the hard way why not to use aftermarket axles. Ended up doing 4 axles on the passenger side and 3 on the driver. Finally got fed up and rebooted GA's old OEM axles. No more problems. Also, OTRAMM is in our area. You could him up and let him fix the quote. Nonetheless, LEXTECHs is a good shop just in a high rent area. But they will indeed back up their work. I saw a lot of it at the Toyota dealer I used to work. Plenty of lost jobs to them. But Toyota dictated our pricing so it is understandable. ACC is pretty reputable as well but I believe they have quite the wait. You could also see Jody @ Japanese auto repair in Alpharetta. He does killer work as well. Hope this is helpful.
 
Shops expensive but most likely has to do with location, had my friends shop take care of Aisin water pump kit + new OEM Radiator, and some tranny lines that were getting too rusty and was still under $1500. The mechanic I use has done plenty of 2UZs. This is in Pennsylvania not in a big city. If you’re in a rust free area I’d try wrenching on some of this yourself, no one knows and cares for your vehicle like you ‘the owner’.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. Much appreciated. I am not mechanical at all but that would not stop me if I had the time. But I have an 8 year old and a 2 year old so my free time to turn a wrench is quite limited. I mostly just wanted to know what really must be fixed vs. what is simply a line item that any computer would spit it out.
 
here is what they say:

1. Front bearings need to be repacked. See pic. $602 to fix

2. Oil leak in the power steering column. They rate this leak at "8/10" where 10/10 is awful. See pic. $1807 to fix.

3. Front passenger side axle leak - 8/10 again. See pic. $379 to fix

What do you think?
They’re right and saving you from potentially catastrophic failures. Do it all.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. Much appreciated. I am not mechanical at all but that would not stop me if I had the time. But I have an 8 year old and a 2 year old so my free time to turn a wrench is quite limited. I mostly just wanted to know what really must be fixed vs. what is simply a line item that any computer would spit it out.
After they do their thing at least pop off the dust cap and make sure the snap ring is where it’s supposed to be. Also make sure they change out the CV to diff seal and they don’t leak. It is common to push the seal too far in causing a leak.
 
these rigs are reiliable but getting old. The require maintenance and if you pay a mechanic, get ready to spend ~$1-3k annually

Edit: I am one of the above who pays a mechanic. Sales tax on a newer car where I am would be $2-3k any way plus still have maintenance and start over on mods - Im like whats the point.... they dont make em like these 100s anymore.
 
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