Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (2 Viewers)

[GXO]

City Racer's new brake booster pump with accumulator is now available:

Brake Booster Pump with Accumulator for Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, Tundra

Brake booster pump with accumulator for Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, and Tundra.This is a wear item that usually requires replacement as the truck approaches 150K miles. Brand new part, not a rebuilt item or rebuild kit. Direct replacement for part # 47070-60010. Applications: '98 to...

www.cityracerllc.com

It should be updated to include the 03-09 GX470s as they are the same as the 100 and 4R

 

[Leif1]

1999 previous owner, brake booster failure. Had little to no brakes at all. 229,000

 

[AZLandCruiserGuy]

1999 Land Cruiser, brake booster failed and was replaced. 232,000 miles. Luckily they failed while moving 1mph.

 

[joshAUST]

You can just replace the accumulator motor without having to replace the whole assembly, assuming its just the motor, which it normally is.
However, if you can hear the motor coming on, and it never stops, or takes way longer than normal to turn off, chances are its the accumulator pump or reservoir, and not the motor.

The motor is attached to the accumulator pump with two allen key bolts.
I removed the air intake filter box first to gain more access.
Disconnect the power cables by undoing the phillips screw first.
You need some long handled allen keys, the standard ones are too short to reach the two keys.

Its a bit of a PITA, but easier and faster than taking out the master cylinder, and no need to bleed the brakes afterwards.

 

[cxk675123491]

Hello guys I have quite a different issue with my brake booster. The pump comes on about every 5-6 brake presses, and I can feel it vibrating though the brake pedal when the pump is running. But no codes, I am sure you are not supposed to feel the pump running right?

 

[2001LC]

Hello guys I have quite a different issue with my brake booster. The pump comes on about every 5-6 brake presses, and I can feel it vibrating though the brake pedal when the pump is running. But no codes, I am sure you are not supposed to feel the pump running right?

Pump should come on every few times, brake pedal pressed.

If vibration felt when stationary (not driving). Could be bearings in pump or it's motor.

If vibration in pedal, is while driving. This if called brake pedal pulse. It's due to brake rotor disk, run-out exceeding limit. The hotter the brake (actively use), the more you'll feel.

Brake rotors, machining / turning

I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cxk675123491]

Pump should come on every few times, brake pedal pressed.

If vibration felt when stationary (not driving). Could be bearings in pump or it's motor.

If vibration in pedal, is while driving. This if called brake pedal pulse. It's due to brake rotor disk, run-out exceeding limit. The hotter the brake (actively use), the more you'll feel.

Brake rotors, machining / turning

I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you for the reply, since the pump running interval is ok, so the accumulator is ok I guess. The vibration is happening only when the pump is running no matter the car is stationary or not it will vibrate as long as the pump is running. So I am sure it is not brake rotor or pads

 

[Comet]

Air in the lines can cause the pump to come on more. I replaced my brake assembly and couldn’t activate the ABS to evacuate the air. Toyota dealer was more than happy to listen to my request (activate abs in techstream) and more than happy to charge me for exactly what I already did (bleed as much air out without activation the ABS).

Bleed the brakes if you gave any doubt.

 

[kwon-offroad]

Thank you for the reply, since the pump running interval is ok, so the accumulator is ok I guess. The vibration is happening only when the pump is running no matter the car is stationary or not it will vibrate as long as the pump is running. So I am sure it is not brake rotor or pads

The pump/accumulator assembly is on rubber mounts to isolate vibration. I wonder if yours has come loose or the rubber has deteriorated and is now hitting metal to metal. Unfortunately, the mounts are at the bottom of the booster unit and probably not easy to see or access without removing it from it's location.

 

[cxk675123491]

The pump/accumulator assembly is on rubber mounts to isolate vibration. I wonder if yours has come loose or the rubber has deteriorated and is now hitting metal to metal. Unfortunately, the mounts are at the bottom of the booster unit and probably not easy to see or access without removing it from it's location.

I will check this, thanks for the hint.

 

[cxk675123491]

The pump/accumulator assembly is on rubber mounts to isolate vibration. I wonder if yours has come loose or the rubber has deteriorated and is now hitting metal to metal. Unfortunately, the mounts are at the bottom of the booster unit and probably not easy to see or access without removing it from it's location.

So the unit I have the bushing is a bit different from ebay ones, oem should be white bushing with small holes all around, however mine is a black one, and seems it is solid, not sure about the material busing.

 

[2001LC]

So the unit I have the bushing is a bit different from ebay ones, oem should be white bushing with small holes all around, however mine is a black one, and seems it is solid, not sure about the material busing.

Rubber cushions in ring around accumulator, should not touch it.

 

[kwon-offroad]

I believe this is the piece he's referring to, where the motor attaches to the booster main unit.

 

[Ryan at Hyperco]

Hey fellas,

I finally got around to replacing the entire unit with a refurbished ebay unit. Fired the rig up and nada from the accumulator motor. Anybody ever had this happen? It'sa super bummer as the ebay'er is on vacation and I am now without a vehicle.

 

[2001LC]

1st buying a refurbished, master assembly w/booster. Is a bad idea. Some parts of it are not refurbish-able, and will likely fail with 24 months.

You can test booster motor, by jumping. You start by jumping at ABS unit (black box of side of master). Than jump at motor. If motor jump works, and ABS jump did not. You've a dead ABS.

Warning: Do not reversing -+, or you will cause a short.

 

[Ryan at Hyperco]

F it...bought a new like I should have in the first place!

 

[DrHess]

F it...bought a new like I should have in the first place!

As my friend PapaDoc says, "I out-cheaped myself." Buy once, cry once.

 

[2001LC]

One good thing. Toyota drop prices on our Brake Master w/Booster assembly. The best deal I've seen, on them ever.

This is unheard of. As Toyota was raising all prices 1/4ly. Than in 2020, started monthly increases on most all parts.

We were having difficulty getting these, and some years master were NLA. Now we can get all years without waiting more than a day or two. I suspect they've greatly increased orders, to their supplier and not just for 100 series!

Improper Pm is number one reason for earl failures IMHO. Even most Toyota shops, much less any INDY nor do many DIY. Read what is print on the reservoir, on how to top. It's a big deal IMHO. But I suspect, use of non Toyota brake fluid has increased fail rate. Which not even Toyota dealership shops use Toyota fluid. They had to dust off cases, for me back a few years ago, when I switched to only using their bottles.

You'd think! Toyota shops, would have learned their lesson. After the 2005-07 recall on master (not land Cruiser) for seal failure. They blamed, people putting in off the shelve (non Toyota) brake fluid in reservoir.

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Toyota DOT 3 Brake Fluid Composition ?

Does anybody know the: Composition & Information on Ingredients of Toyota brake fluids that was factory installed in 2001 or any year as well as what is on the Dealers shelf today? The FSM & Owners Manual recommends industry standard: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No 116 DOT 3. Toyota states in a TSB...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[OEMGUY0720]

No weep or leak anywhere, bone dry. The bleeders on all for corners even have a silicone cap on them. Didn’t touch the brake system at all since last full flush/fluid exchange on April 2021. Curious to hear your experience on your 100s if this is ab/normal.

 

[Ryan at Hyperco]

As my friend PapaDoc says, "I out-cheaped myself." Buy once, cry once.

LOL

New unit is in and works great. Also tackled the heater T's.