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- #21
I removed the Toyota motor mounts and ground flush to the frame rail on each side. The driver's side was a little tricky with the brake lines right there but with mounting bolts removed they bent out of the way sufficiently.
Another LS Swap: L92 & 6l80e into a '94 LC (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Scalpel
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- #22
Next step was to test fit the LS to the engine bay. Didn't get very far because the power steering return bung was in the way. Mostly wanted to know if the GM manifolds would fit. Couldn't really tell based on what I'd read. You can see from the pic below how far that bung sticks out...
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- #23
I tried bending the return bung around a pipe and folded it on itself. I removed the PS reservoir and cut the bung off the reservoir with a hammer and chisel (didn't want to use a saw or grinding wheel because I was concerned about getting shavings in the reservoir). Welded on a 3/8 NPT to 3/8 barb fitting for the return:
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- #24
With the PS bung addressed, another test fit... The original GM manifolds will not work. The studs hit the DS frame rail. No picture of the problem area but it was just too wide. Ordered Hooker cast manifolds:
8051HKR
Installation instructions (if needed): PART NO (holley.com)
8051HKR
Installation instructions (if needed): PART NO (holley.com)
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- #25
While waiting for the manifolds to show up in the mail I decided it was a good time to install a hydroboost unit. I installed it upside down because I'd read several times that it won't fit the other way. In hindsight that was not necessary. They won't fit right-side-up with the 1FZFE. No harm done.
The unit was sourced from a Safari van.
The unit was sourced from a Safari van.
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- #26
Some fabrication was required to get it to work but it wasn't bad. The mounting plate needed some new holes drilled in it to mount to the firewall.
The master cylinder mated up to the hydroboost unit pretty well. Just needed a way to attach them. These pieces of angle iron did the trick.
The master cylinder mated up to the hydroboost unit pretty well. Just needed a way to attach them. These pieces of angle iron did the trick.
Correct, it hits the intake on the 1FZFE. With the LS, you should have plenty of room and base it on how you like the hydraulic routing(top/ vs bottom). Maybe consider the heat off the manifold if rotated with the feeds down? Still likely not a concern?
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- #28
The Toyota brake pedal had to be modified to accept the GM push rod. Basically I cut a notch out of the front of the pedal bar and welded two ¼” plates (one on each side) so the GM rod could slip between them. This allowed it to line up squarely to the hydroboost unit. Had to make a new pin out of a 3/8” bolt to secure the push rod to the pedal. I did not need to adjust the length of the push rod.
PICTURES OF THE PUSH ROD. GM ON TOP AND TOYOTA ON THE BOTTOM.
PICTURES OF THE PUSH ROD. GM ON TOP AND TOYOTA ON THE BOTTOM.
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- Thread starter
- #29
To finish this mod, I welded a second 3/8 return bung to the PS reservoir (high on the can) as I had done previously.
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- #30
Oil pressure sender... I know it's not important to all but I wanted everything to look stock inside. I realize that the old gauges aren't as precise as new ones but that problem is easily overcome with the Torque app on an android deck (works great).
In order to get the Toyota oil pressure gauge to work, I started by filling the well in the oil cooler block off plate (on the F-body oil pan) with aluminum. I then drilled and tapped it with a 1/8 BSPT tap. Put a little thread tape on the sender threads and screwed it in.
In order to get the Toyota oil pressure gauge to work, I started by filling the well in the oil cooler block off plate (on the F-body oil pan) with aluminum. I then drilled and tapped it with a 1/8 BSPT tap. Put a little thread tape on the sender threads and screwed it in.
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- #31
There are a couple of places to mount the Toyota coolant temp sensor. I chose to put it into the passenger side head. (GM uses the one on the DS so I figured if that was a good enough location for them it was good enough for me). The picture below shows where the sender goes. The allen bolt comes out and the sender goes in there. The Toyota sender was machined down to 12 x 1.50. A nylon washer was used.
This picture shows the GM sender on the left, Toyota sender machined to 12 x 1.50, and OEM Toyota sender (Toyota Part 83420-16040)
This picture shows the GM sender on the left, Toyota sender machined to 12 x 1.50, and OEM Toyota sender (Toyota Part 83420-16040)
alia176
SILVER Star
For a guy who joined the Mud forum on 2010 and with only 43 messages, dude, you ROCKED this post. Great details, pics and invaluable wisdom shared with all. Great job amigo. 
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- #34
Thank you guys for the encouragement and kind words. God has been good. I've been blessed with some amazing friends and a supportive wife.
I'm still waiting for the time I show how I solved a problem and someone points out that there was a much easier way to do it - or worse yet - maybe what did was just plain stupid. I'm sure it'll happen. On to the fuel system...
I'm still waiting for the time I show how I solved a problem and someone points out that there was a much easier way to do it - or worse yet - maybe what did was just plain stupid. I'm sure it'll happen. On to the fuel system...
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- #35
When Toyota designed this fuel delivery system, the pump was set up as kind of a 2-stage pump depending on the fuel demand. There are a few folks out there that have done an LS swap and retained the Toyota system. I'm not one of them. I wanted to make it much simpler and understand how it worked in the case I ever had to troubleshoot it.
Additionally, there are a handful of swap threads in which guys retained the original Landcruiser fuel pump. I had reservations about whether it could keep with the 6.2L engine so I went with an aftermarket pump. After I'd completed the swap, I plumbed a second fuel tank and just for the heck of it put the old LC fuel pump into it. With a switch, I can change the gauge, idiot light (for the fuel being too low), pump power and plumbing from one tank to the other. For what it's worth, the OEM Toyota fuel pump keeps up with this motor without any problems.
Additionally, there are a handful of swap threads in which guys retained the original Landcruiser fuel pump. I had reservations about whether it could keep with the 6.2L engine so I went with an aftermarket pump. After I'd completed the swap, I plumbed a second fuel tank and just for the heck of it put the old LC fuel pump into it. With a switch, I can change the gauge, idiot light (for the fuel being too low), pump power and plumbing from one tank to the other. For what it's worth, the OEM Toyota fuel pump keeps up with this motor without any problems.
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- #36
I decided to go with the C5 corvette fuel filter / regulator. Seemed like a really simple way of doing things. I selected a site on the inside of the driver's side frame rail to mount it. Don't get too caught up in the fittings in the pictures. I tried several things before it was finalized. DO NOT use check valves. (I was trying to figure out how to rough the plumbing in for two tanks and thought I'd need them. Ultimately I didn't.) That was a bad idea. When the vehicle is parked, the fuel pressure gets so high (from the heat of the motor) it won't start. I tried to check the pressure at the fuel rail and it wouldn't register on my gauge. I pushed the valve stem down and fuel shot up and bounced off the underside of the hood.
Location of the filter/regulator (the air hose and freshly wrapped loom are things I added - they won't be there for reference):
The Toyota supply line is 5/16" and the return line is 1/4". As you can see, I cut them both just in front of the fuel tank. The return line from this cut point forward was removed. I placed a differential vent on the 1/4" line that used to go to the charcoal can in the engine bay (tank vent).
Location of the filter/regulator (the air hose and freshly wrapped loom are things I added - they won't be there for reference):
The Toyota supply line is 5/16" and the return line is 1/4". As you can see, I cut them both just in front of the fuel tank. The return line from this cut point forward was removed. I placed a differential vent on the 1/4" line that used to go to the charcoal can in the engine bay (tank vent).
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I'm pulling the drivetrain out of my 08 escalade parts truck this weekend to start this exact swap. You couldn't have started this thread at a better time
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- #38
The pump I used was ordered from The Landcruiser Shop in Sandpoint ID. Hyperfuel pump (40108). The hanger had to be modified to accept the new pump. The foot was cut off with tin snips and the pump was secured to the hanger with hose clamps. I drilled out the rivets securing the old pump wires to the hanger and used new rivets to secure the hyperfuel pump wires.
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- #39
As I'd mentioned, the Toyota fuel pump wiring wasn't straightforward. I decided to remove it all and start with a clean slate. I removed the fuel pump resistor and relay (DS over the wheel well). I chased wires through firewall to the nearest plug and depinned them. 2 were simple and 2 ran to the ECU (had been removed) plugs. In order to chase these wires to the ECU, I had to remove the dash. I knew it was coming eventually but had been putting it off. What a headache. I'll post more on the dash removal later.
From the connector on the top of the fuel hanger, there are 5 wires. Y-R runs the gauge. R runs the idiot light. R-G is power in. W-B and B are both ground. Removed R-G and W-B wires by unpinning. W-B was unpinned and chased to the loom along the DS rear door where it joined another ground wire. Clipped here and taped. The R-G wire was followed to the DS kick panel and unpinned & removed.
I ran 10g wire to the fuel hanger from the engine bay. At the fuel hanger, I used a large weatherproof connector for power and ground (new ground). Original plug was used for the remaining 3 wires. Where wires were depinned from weatherproof plugs, holes were filled with silicone.
As a side note (and we'll get to this later) all of my "new" grounds were run to a bus bar in the engine bay.
From the connector on the top of the fuel hanger, there are 5 wires. Y-R runs the gauge. R runs the idiot light. R-G is power in. W-B and B are both ground. Removed R-G and W-B wires by unpinning. W-B was unpinned and chased to the loom along the DS rear door where it joined another ground wire. Clipped here and taped. The R-G wire was followed to the DS kick panel and unpinned & removed.
I ran 10g wire to the fuel hanger from the engine bay. At the fuel hanger, I used a large weatherproof connector for power and ground (new ground). Original plug was used for the remaining 3 wires. Where wires were depinned from weatherproof plugs, holes were filled with silicone.
As a side note (and we'll get to this later) all of my "new" grounds were run to a bus bar in the engine bay.
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- #40
Removing the dash was highly unpleasant. Took longer than expected and was just one of a few steps in this swap that was a bit of a struggle. It's easy to bend up the VIN strip so be careful sliding it out. Pretty sure the steering wheel had to come off. Not sure why I put it back on in this pic. Can't remember.
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