What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (52 Viewers)

[DirtyPepper]

Don't fall off that horse.......

Not everyone can afford to spend $50,000.00 on a full restoration.

If that rig were mine I would have the glass shop buff all the rust with a wire wheel, treat with primer, and install the new glass. Than I would keep using it.

As long as the windshield doesn't leak for another 5 years why does it matter? Maybe the OP just needs to use this 80 for a few years until he can afford a new car.

Some people still use these rigs as work vehicles and daily drivers.

Why worry about spending $$$$$$$$ to repair something like this. For all the OP knows he might total the rig in 3 months.

If somebody has the $$$$ and their rig is a resto project than go for it but not everybody is in this boat.

Funny you should mention that, because that's just what they did, more or less.

Per the glass shop:

• Remove/Replace front windshield gasket
• Inspection request per customer - indication of rust along edges
• Treated rust, removed as much as possible
• Windshield frame treatment
• Install customer provided Toyota OEM gasket
• Glass installation
• Verify seal

The glass didn't need to be replaced, thankfully.
At some point, I'll replace with OEM glass, if I can find it. If not, I'll run this glass until it cracks and replace it with something as close to OEM as possible.

So, some history on how I got to replacing the windshield gasket...I've had the LC since about January 2016; she had ~200K miles when purchased and now has 221,xxx miles but I'm finally in a position where I can baseline and then build. So, I'm baselining. I was getting water in the floorboards but I simply thought this was from the sunroof drains being clogged but since I can't get the sunroof open, she would be tarped during the rain months (It's not my DD...that's reserved for my Avalon since it gets 32 mpg). When I took her to the shop for the AC issue and they had the DS kick panel removed, I mentioned the drains and how clear they were. I mentioned the water issue, the tech inspected the windshield and noted the brittleness of the gasket and noted a few area where it seemed popped up or pried up. he then noted the area of bubbles...and then noted that he was 99% certain this was why water was getting in, as apparent by some surface rust (VERY light) on metal behind the dash.

So, replacing the gasket jumped in priority from a non-issue to NOW, nudging its way past a couple of other things.
I mean, if water keeps seeping in then more and more of the interior and components will get damaged/destroyed.
So, fixing it now was a no-brainer.

She's going to be a camping rig...nothing outlandish; something to get me to places others can't from time to time, something to haul my Popup trailer; I'm not planning on rock crawling, but back woods and forest trails, sure. I'm planning a WABR run with some friends next summer (My 80, a 2000 Disco2, and a 2022 Gladiator).

But a full restoration? No.

That's probably saved for the '83 60-series sitting in my driveway, but that remains to be seen as it's also all stock, fully drivable, and with only 183K miles on it.

 

[SNLC]

Don't fall off that horse.......

Not everyone can afford to spend $50,000.00 on a full restoration.

If that rig were mine I would have the glass shop buff all the rust with a wire wheel, treat with primer, and install the new glass. Than I would keep using it.

As long as the windshield doesn't leak for another 5 years why does it matter? Maybe the OP just needs to use this 80 for a few years until he can afford a new car.

Some people still use these rigs as work vehicles and daily drivers.

Why worry about spending $$$$$$$$ to repair something like this. For all the OP knows he might total the rig in 3 months.

If somebody has the $$$$ and their rig is a resto project than go for it but not everybody is in this boat.

Well, ih8rust!

Cheers

 

[DirtyPepper]

Well, ih8rust!

Cheers

Nice

As always, I appreciate the insight and advice. From everyone.

 

[fjbj40]

In a prior post I talked about adjusting the oil pressure gauge needle. I read it on here that it may fix the no oil pressure reading of the OEM gauge.

Well it does

Pics will give you an idea what oil pressure is compared to my mechanical gauge

 

[Surfdc]

Swapped out the Dobinson's front C59-234 linear springs, no-load, comfort ride. in their place i put the c59-222v variable rate heavy load springs. Did not have time for the rear. Too many soccer games/bday parties.
My rig is stock weight, maybe even lighter with no 3rd row seats. I had the 246vt/247vt before these and netted 3.5" of lift when i was looking for 2.5" - vibrations ensued.
The 234 linear coils netted around 1.5" lift and are probably the smoothest ride out there. when paired with the Dob MRR adjustable shocks it is then suburb. ( I compare to our LX 570 which is in my opinion one of the smoothest riding automobiles i've ever been in.)
BUT
That is with only me in the rig and no gear 99% on the time on the road. There were some speed bumps and driveways where it would bottom out.
So my conclusion is IMO, the 80 performs best with a variable rate coil to handle the heavy hits or higher speed dips.
The 222v are performing better, even though they are a heavy rated coil, on my stock weight rig, the ride is still suburb, and my net lift is 22 1/2, so 2" of lift.
WIth the rebound dialed up a little the ride is almost as good and the LX!

I also ground off the front of the bump-stop housing lip per @Delta VS Dave's recommendation as the coil was rubbing on it.

Anyway hope that helps others trying to determine which spring rates to go with.

234 vs. 222v

Lip ground flush

 

[Andrew Bluemel]

Repainted factory black, new trim, grill, headlights, taillights, turn signal lights, bumper lights, emblems, stickers, window seals, belt molding, whole new wiring harness, ditched the Yokohamas for some K02s, and ditched the jerry cans for a yeti cooler.

And now she’s ready to be the winter beater

 

[utahisrad]

Well I've been neglecting my land cruiser rebuild project all year, I've made little progress through the summer and fall. But I am ready to start wrapping this up and get her running again. Took off work and have the next 6 days straight to focus on getting things put back together. Hoping to at least have the frame rolling and mostly put back together to get the body on next week. Goal is to have her running again by the new year then during the spring put on the finishing touches.

As for today, worked on the front axle and got most of the passenger side done. Ordered some parts I'm missing to get it finished up. Also been fighting the old tie rod ends to swap them for new ones. Eventually I will replace them with the beefy Marlin kit since ill be running 37s on 4.88s w/ a new redhead steering box. So they will be one of the few weak points in the system for a little until they get more kits in stock.

Anyway if you are in Utah near the Provo area and are willing to come help me I will love you forever and will name my future children after you. PEACE!

 

[Dusten]

Don't fall off that horse.......

Not everyone can afford to spend $50,000.00 on a full restoration.

If that rig were mine I would have the glass shop buff all the rust with a wire wheel, treat with primer, and install the new glass. Than I would keep using it.

As long as the windshield doesn't leak for another 5 years why does it matter? Maybe the OP just needs to use this 80 for a few years until he can afford a new car.

Some people still use these rigs as work vehicles and daily drivers.

Why worry about spending $$$$$$$$ to repair something like this. For all the OP knows he might total the rig in 3 months.

If somebody has the $$$$ and their rig is a resto project than go for it but not everybody is in this boat.

I had a little on the rear window. Did the same thing. Removed rust. Treated. Primed. Shot with paint. It's fine. I'm not keeping this rig forever. It's just a car.

 

[jfz80]

A week away wandering from Cape Lookout to Corolla. Not wanting to go home. Started at Portsmouth island OBX and continued exploring a couple coastal national Forests and then moved on to the marsh/swamp fringes. Ended up back on the banks tonight. Debating another day off and heading up the beach to VA line to see the wild horses.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Debating another day off and heading up the beach to VA line to see the wild horses.

Are they feral or wild?

 

[jfz80]

Are they feral or wild?

Suppose feral would be a better description as evidently only one wild horse population and I’m not in Mongolia. This population is survived and sustained with little to no management for many generations.

Article: When Is "Wild" Actually "Feral"? | AMNH

The takhi is the only true wild horse left in the world. The so-called "wild" horses that abound in Australia and North America are actually feral. Find out what it means when a domestic...

www.amnh.org

More tangled terminology

Corolla Wild Horses - Currituck Outer Banks

The Wild Spanish Mustangs are unique to Corolla and Currituck counties, and you won’t find them in any other part of the world. The only remaining wild herd left in the world, these horses are a must-see when visiting the Outer Banks of North Carolina. The wild horses were originally brought...

www.visitcurrituck.com

 

[nigelsiam]

Repainted factory black, new trim, grill, headlights, taillights, turn signal lights, bumper lights, emblems, stickers, window seals, belt molding, whole new wiring harness, ditched the Yokohamas for some K02s, and ditched the jerry cans for a yeti cooler.

And now she’s ready to be the winter beater

View attachment 3169145

View attachment 3169146

View attachment 3169147

View attachment 3169148

sure is pretty...what did the respray cost you?

 

[Andrew Bluemel]

sure is pretty...what did the respray cost you?

Thank you! I took all of the lights, flares, and trim off, but no actual paint prep. Cost me about $2500 for the paint job, then around $1000 for all new exterior trim and accessories.

 

[Vulkyn]

In a prior post I talked about adjusting the oil pressure gauge needle. I read it on here that it may fix the no oil pressure reading of the OEM gauge.

Well it does

Pics will give you an idea what oil pressure is compared to my mechanical gauge

Do you have more details on thr oil pressure gauge installation? I want to add one as well.

 

[JBinGA]

@Dusten ok maybe I’m missing something. When you said lip what exactly do you mean. I measured from center of hub to put lip of wheel well. I got like 24”. Photo attached.

@Dusten Thank you. I'll measure today and post photos. Appreciate the help

 

[JBinGA]

Measure from hub center to lip, as this is the gap that a lift changes. Tire size and wear will effect the gaps you've measured.

@Dusten Maybe i did this wrong. I got 24". Do I need to do some math? Photo attached. Thanks for help! Best, JB

 

[JBinGA]

@leonard_nemoy Thanks! I just saw this post and I did not lubricate the brand new one before I installed it. Saw this post after I did it.
Did I upload my after photos? I don't recall. Also, I was gonna toss the old cable but was wondering if I should keep any parts or see if anyone else needs them.
Thanks!

@leonard_nemoy I noticed when I put the dash and everything back together that some of my gauges are not working. I rechecked all the electronic cables and everything is plugged in tight and you can't plug into the wrong place b/c the ends are specific. Speedometer cable works but now other things are not. Kinda like "wack-a-mole" feeling. Any thoughts or advice or any past posts you've seen. Appreciate the help!

 

[Feldrian]

I had a little on the rear window. Did the same thing. Removed rust. Treated. Primed. Shot with paint. It's fine. I'm not keeping this rig forever. It's just a car.

I'm keeping mine forever. I might ask to be buried in it.

 

[Heckraiser]

@Dusten ok maybe I’m missing something. When you said lip what exactly do you mean. I measured from center of hub to put lip of wheel well. I got like 24”. Photo attached.



View attachment 3169547

Stock from the center of the wheel hub straight up to the bottom of the fender arch is 20" or 20.5" depending on who you ask. So you've got a 3.5" or 4" lift assuming you lined your tape up well enough.

 

[JBinGA]

Stock from the center of the wheel hub straight up to the bottom of the fender arch is 20" or 20.5" depending on who you ask. So you've got a 3.5" or 4" lift assuming you lined your tape up well enough.

@Heckraiser Thank you! I didn't do a great job with the tape so I'll redo but I'm thinking it's probably a 4" lift.