Builds DRANGED's GX470 build/ownership thread (7 Viewers)

[DRANGED]

Soooooo, you've had the weekend to drive it - any perceptible power gains with the Short Tubes? 0-60 runs now down in the 5's? KIDDING!

Great job getting this done, thanks for redirecting me over here from the other thread. WELL DONE!!!!!

@tlin
It's smooth, it's stock-quiet, not stinky, and I'd say it does pull a little harder in the 3200-4500rpm range. It's nice!
It is a LOT of work!
Maybe engine mounts would've solved the stress issue on the manifolds but for a better solution to the [choked] log manifold prone to eventual failure, THIS IS THE WAY.

The new engine and trans mounts we're a no brainer 'whole you're in there', considering age and mileage.

so yeah, definitely recommended for those facing the manifold issue and the variables align to make headers happen.

 

[aztoytec]

Ouch…. Time for more upgrades!!!

 

[DRANGED]

Unexpected, unplanned family stuff forced a rocket run to OR. Sunday's (11/6) completion of the headers was pushed and went well, and the 900-mile one-way to OR was an amazing test for the headers!

I retrieved my dad's 1990 Nissan hardbody (I've got kids that'll be driving soon ), and for whatever insane reason they're not interested in the 'world famous Superu' *(which admittedly needs some review and probably every possible bushing replaced) in favor of wife's current '03 impreza OBS, so I FIGURE this p/u will be an amazing learner with little get-into-troubleness about it!!

Manual EVERYTHING! windows, locks, transmission, steering, brakes.
No speedo, no trip ODO, no factory rear bumper, no AC, no ABS, no airbags, no radio (he had a deck installed, but only the left speaker wired (lol), reupholstered in black vinyl to boot

HF towbar FTW!!

so the unexpected 1800-mile trip was productive and I have a rad commuter (need to bleed the brakes though, lol and future learner for the kids.

 

[DRANGED]

Buddy upgraded ... I scored his hand-me-down (ergo, needs repair) rig'd tire carrier.

 

[DRANGED]

YotaMD, this is the way!

Friffrin'-fruffin' fuddling with tiny little nuts and screws widdle middle-aged eyes!

Super badass fob for key blade support!!

 

[McDuff123]

Unexpected, unplanned family stuff forced a rocket run to OR. Sunday's (11/6) completion of the headers was pushed and went well, and the 900-mile one-way to OR was an amazing test for the headers!
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I retrieved my dad's 1990 Nissan hardbody (I've got kids that'll be driving soon ), and for whatever insane reason they're not interested in the 'world famous Superu' *(which admittedly needs some review and probably every possible bushing replaced) in favor of wife's current '03 impreza OBS, so I FIGURE this p/u will be an amazing learner with little get-into-troubleness about it!!
View attachment 3189077View attachment 3189078
Manual EVERYTHING! windows, locks, transmission, steering, brakes.
No speedo, no trip ODO, no factory rear bumper, no AC, no ABS, no airbags, no radio (he had a deck installed, but only the left speaker wired (lol), reupholstered in black vinyl to boot
View attachment 3189079

HF towbar FTW!!
View attachment 3189081
so the unexpected 1800-mile trip was productive and I have a rad commuter (need to bleed the brakes though, lol and future learner for the kids.

View attachment 3189080

I can only imagine that fuel bill!

 

[estoddart]

With all studs retained in place there's no wiggle room (specifically driver) to hang the headers on the studs. I pulled the motor mount bolts to free up a little room, but still not really enough on the Driver side as the header contacts the steering linkage and the rear top stud,
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I could hang the passenger side on the studs okay, around the motor mount in place still, so I think that side will be straight forward, I just happen to have started everyting on the driver's side (glutton for punishment that I am. . . .)
I think needs to stay a stud b/c the tube in front of that fitting would be ultra hell for bolt fitment. Plus scratching the tubes with all the fiddling
This stud will be a bear. . . .
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@Rednexus and @ArBrnSnpr
Since you guys are the main commenters from the other DT headers threads and are along my journey here, I'll just ping you here to keep my beta consolidated in this build. Did you put your studs back in but as bolts or did you go with bolts?
So, I'm thinking a mix of studs and bolts and opted for these.

If you know others running headers, Ping ping them to comment too.

I'm just catching up on your progress. I recently installed DT long tube headers on my '08. I pulled all the studs out, cleaned them up and reinstalled them after the header was in place using a "star" socket. I put the OEM nuts on and torqued to spec. It was a huge pain in the butt.

 

[DRANGED]

I'm just catching up on your progress. I recently installed DT long tube headers on my '08. I pulled all the studs out, cleaned them up and reinstalled them after the header was in place using a "star" socket. I put the OEM nuts on and torqued to spec. It was a huge pain in the butt.

Keep reading, lol
the tube configuration is different from the short tube in the long tube, I spent an hour and a half on one bolt alone, driver side rear bottom. There was no way to get the header over the stud so that is replaced with a bolt. Props for getting them on and using the e-torx to put the steps back in!!. Nut access is wicked crazy on the short tubes, and the flex head 14 mil gearwrench was the key to most of them.
But they're all on now and "torqued".

She purrs, is quiet and has a bit More pep! The pull is strong!

Definitely report back your findings and post in the poll thread!!

 

[DRANGED]

Exhaust gas rails Were installed using bolts (M6 1.0x20) instead of the studs and nuts, and passenger lower bolt was cut down (maybe a 16mm would be good there) related to header stud nut interference.
Driver side's car-side flange seemed clocked a Little compared to header flange maybe tweaked when it was pried off the studs).

View attachment 3164816

Hmm, I should put some keeper nuts on those bolts.

 

[silvarshooter]

Cool thread, we have similar taste in vehicles.

 

[DRANGED]

 

[silvarshooter]

Nice, got all 2s this summer, that’s the next milestone for my LX.

 

[greengxguy]

Exhaust mani repair completed!

SUPER quiet again! I hadn't realized the slow increase in tictictic, until it finally let loose!
Hindsight, always 20/20: I had noticed my 07 was a little tickier than @Lifted's 05 (similar mileage) when we fiddled with his bumper last summer.... I recall thinking, WTF, why it is making that noise? his older 2UZ is quieter than mine!...

So my PAX exhaust manifold failed in the tube bend upstream of the cat, NOT at any weld. But the failure was a nearly circumferential crack. I was surprised to learn the manifold in this car is NOT cast but welded tube. interesting.

PAX exhaustMani.jpg

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PAX exhaustManCrack.jpg

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PAX exhaustManCrack2.jpg

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PAX exhaustManCrack3.jpg

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pix of gasket for kicks too... hmm.

PAX exhaustManiGasket.jpg

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PAX exhaustManiGasket2.jpg

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PAX exhaustManiGasket3.jpg

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I replaced the 8 studs too (as I expected), but sadly THOSE didn't get returned in the box with the other broken bits I asked for

At any rate, she purrrs again!!


Oh, and I had them do my 5-tire rotation while it was there (46K miles on these KO2s, and they have 10/32 tread remaining), since I was due and was returning my 6 ton jack stands during this same drop-off trip (HF is 2+ hours away, as is the closest Yota dealer) and therefore lost the means for "safe" vehicle support at home
So I turned those stands' in-store credit, plus a $40 off coupon into a tool cabinet (which gets surprisingly good reviews) for $250

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perfect fit (thankfully) for my wife to retrieve after the GX pick-up (Thanks honey!!)
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Hi,

Is that the OEM manifold? I may be having header problems and am curious if their are options other than OEM or DT. Thanks

 

[DRANGED]

Hi,

Is that the OEM manifold? I may be having header problems and am curious if their are options other than OEM or DT. Thanks

Yeah, that was the stock exhaust manifold. I had a dealer replace it with another OEM part and THAT one cracked in the same place 14.months later.

There's another thread discussing another non OE manifold brand but it kinda turned into a DT discussion.

Stock OEM manifold replacement is okay, but $pendy AND YOU SHOULD CHECK OR REPLACE THE ENGINE ISOLATORS TOO. Mine seemed to be packed out and sagging the engine about a half inch which I suspect was a major contributor to Manifold failure(s).

I think the DT shorties did positively effect power, and there's NO doubt they help engine efficiency, BUT install is a real deal.
A reputable shop will be able to do this and others have reported so. There are merits pros and cons for Each, long tube and short tube, and it's worth the consideration over stock, chocking manifolds. BUT downtime, availability of responsible reputable shop, or personal skill set, time and tools are all REAL factors to consider.


$0.02.

Good luck but [potentially] welcome to the failed Mani club.

 

[DRANGED]

Aaaaand then this. . . .


View attachment 3168667

Life makes All Sorts Of turns with ups and downs.

Insurance claim filed.
With longevity/customer loyalty, accident-free for over a decade, multi-discounts I've been assured my rates won't raise by filing a claim so the process has been started. I'll eBay another pair of Prado tails and am bumper shopping! I doubt the claim would cover a bumper but it'll provide a hefty subsidy!
I've come to really like the Victory bumper, but even on tax sale, Sadly that one's off the table. I do like the component aspect of add-ons later and tire still fits underneath, BUT it's ju$t still too $teep, plus $450 in shipping to boot. :-|

I've since been eyeing Coastal Offroad's low-profile DIY kit. It's also component with swingouts able to add-on later and info suggests they'll work with the Gobi ladder.

They're responsive to emails and informative!
They do a good job at promoting DIY cuz they've engineered the hard part and make a good product which is also easily modified and shipped quickly and inexpensively via flat-rate..

There are some YT videos in general but a straight GX 470 build/mounting video I have not yet found.

Seems like the 3/8" shackle point is two 3/16" layers stacked (pic above was from customer who ordered a 3rs plate?) and One (#5) penetrates the back faceplate (#4) then is sandwiched and Tee and edge welded to achieve thickness.
I'd consider copying #5 in 3/8" or 1/2" plate and opening the hole where it penetrates #4.... If that would work.
I can't quite tell if #5 bolts to the frame, don't have mine apart or the coastal kit in hand to asses.

So, at this point I'm in the analysis phase and haven't pulled the trigger....

I'd do the mods to mount a Yota pintle hitch to retain rated towing capabilities, rather than Coastal's add-on hitch, but I'm also concerned with how much of the spare would be visible when mounted in the stock location.

​

The bumper is an excellent example of the venn diagram..
DIY (Coastal) for lower co$t and high quality (green bottom) vs. quality prebuilt/purchased for convenience (orange right side). The ideal purple left side is unobtanium!

Anyone out there with Coastal rear bumper on a GX 470 experience/expertise to chime in??!
ALSO comparing with Victory bumper (tax sale 15% off!!!)
​

 

[DRANGED]

YotaMD, this is the way!

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Friffrin'-fruffin' fuddling with tiny little nuts and screws widdle middle-aged eyes!

View attachment 3194003


Super badass fob for key blade support!!

fun project, but the U-style blade fitment is NOT awesome.

skip to 3:45 for the U-style blade installation in the YotaMD titanium fob kit.

I'm doing their threaded hole blade replacement (T-blade) as well to get the BURLY AS ADVERTISED durability as demonstrated (@7:50) with the YotaMD titanium kit.

FTW!!!

 

[GXO]

I did the titanium kit and it is awesome.

Also, for coastal. They are run by a pretty young guy in Canada. He does a great job and doesn't mess around with too much social or promotional stuff. He just keeps pumping low cost flat packed kits. The GXOverlady got one for the front and the 4x4Labs for the rear and loves both. The rear coastal is RIGHT THERE on price point if you can weld. The 4x4Labs is the best looking and most functional rear I have seen for a GX. I am temped to get one for mine and cut the boat anchor off of my rig that was built onto it in 2011 lol.

 

[DRANGED]

I did the titanium kit and it is awesome.

Also, for coastal. They are run by a pretty young guy in Canada. He does a great job and doesn't mess around with too much social or promotional stuff. He just keeps pumping low cost flat packed kits. The GXOverlady got one for the front and the 4x4Labs for the rear and loves both. The rear coastal is RIGHT THERE on price point if you can weld. The 4x4Labs is the best looking and most functional rear I have seen for a GX. I am temped to get one for mine and cut the boat anchor off of my rig that was built onto it in 2011 lol.

Good beta!
Did you scope the high clearance Coasterl version? Some cutting and welding of rear member I believe, BUT wicked high clearance "in the end"!

 

[CO_Hunter]

#5 does not bolt to the frame. I got the long arm so I have one swing out. Not sure if he is showing the beefed up hinge bracket he made for me to support the long arm. I didn’t like the ide of those latche hooks in middle of the bumper. I also reinforced the vertical parts with some extra steel I had laying around. I have a few pics in my build thread. I have towed a full 6x12’ uHaul trailer 1,000 plus miles no problem with coastal hitch.

 

[GXO]

Good beta!
Did you scope the high clearance Coasterl version? Some cutting and welding of rear member I believe, BUT wicked high clearance in the end!

Yes, that was why I put it in the running. The 4x4 labs has the same. We actually cut the back of her frame off to mount it. High and tight!!