SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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So does the combination of ECT + S5 replace the need to spend a few grand on new gears? I realize everyone's answer is different based on what their goals for the individual rig are. I am simply asking if one could come close with what I have listed instead of opening up the diffs.
What goal are you trying to achieve?

Compensate for a tire diameter upgrade? Get more torque for climbing hills? Slower hill descent for control offroad?

I don't think ECT in any way results in the same or similar outcome as regearing, but others know more than I do.

I think about it like this:

Each turn of the crankshaft times the transmission gear ratio times the transfer case ratio (hi 1.0/low 2.618) = turn of driveshafts, then you multiply that by transfer case ratio to get the resulting turns of the drive axles (and thus the wheels)

For every 1 turn of the crankshaft:
1 x 1.51 [fifth gear] x 1.0 [high gear transfer] = 1.51 x 3.30 = 5.00 turns of the axles/wheels​
1 x 1.51 [fifth gear] x 1.0 [high gear transfer] = 1.51 x 3.90 = 5.87 turns of the axles/wheels​
So to cover the equivalent distance (get the same speed), you will run at lower RPMs with the higher numeric ratio (called a lower ratio for some reason). And it feels more "torquey", seat of the pants...

It gets even more dramatic when you look at what it does in the low gear transfer since everything gets multiplied by 2.618 before it gets to the drive shaft.

Let's look at 2nd gear low:
1 x 2.81 [2nd gear] x 2.62 [low gear transfer] = 7.39 x 3.30 = 24.46 turns of the axles/wheels​
1 x 2.81 [2nd gear] x 2.62 [low gear transfer] = 7.39 x 3.90 = 28.89 turns of the axles/wheels​
Offroad, pragmatically speaking, this translates into more torque, climbing ability and helps control descents better.

Shifting into 5th gear S, just keeps the transmission from shifting above that 1.51 ratio.
 
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What goal are you trying to achieve?

Compensate for a tire diameter upgrade? Get more torque for climbing hills? Slower hill descent for control offroad?

I don't think ECT in any way results in the same or similar outcome as regearing, but others know more than I do.
Yes to all the above to a tee. Upgraded to a 35x12.50r17...in no way do I think it seems cumbersome and its not a heavy build in any way (no drawers, roof rack, bumpers, etc)
 
I updated my post with some examples.

You're pushing heavier tires with a larger diameter (circumference), so regearing would move you back into closer to stock RPM and restore the feeling of being able to turn your tires with less pedal. It makes the vehicle feel torquier.
 
I updated my post with some examples.

You're pushing heavier tires with a larger diameter (circumference), so regearing would move you back into closer to stock RPM and restore the feeling of being able to turn your tires with less pedal. It makes the vehicle feel torquier.
Really appreciate the information and help!
 
Yeah, i can't confirm or deny for the LC, but a quick google makes it look like Toyota definitely had XM systems in their cars up until pretty recently, and i guess XM didn't go above channel 234 for some reason. It looks like newer Toyota/Lexus models have received an updated Sirius tuner that allows the higher channels. But those updates seem to have only coincided with major model refreshes. The LC never got that major model refresh in the US. The Infotainment system in the LC is certainly woefully outdated.
The only work around I could muster is to play Sirius on my phone and tether it to the stereo. Not the best, but in major metro, prolly ok.
 
I think I have finally found an LX. I put some money down anyways. I was wondering if you guys could give me some last minute pointers on questions to ask. I plan to have this transported to me. It is in TX. This is at the dealer that originally sold it. They also serviced it and are now selling it as a trade. This one probably has the best service history that I have seen. The 120k service has been completed with the exception of the transmission fluid. I am not sure why that was missed when doing the transfer case and diffs.
It did have a couple of big ticket items done about when it was traded.

Code:
SERVICE: REAR MAIN CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OIL
DESCRIPTION: ~|~REAR MAIN CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OIL ~|~REAR MAIN
CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OIL ~|~119665 1700 REPLACED THE REAR MAIN
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL AND CLEANED THE OIL RESIDUE FROM THE ENGINE AND
TRANSMISSION AREA AND 4 MILE ROAD TEST COMPLETE
SERVICE: RACK AND PINION LEAKING
DESCRIPTION: ~|~RACK AND PINION LEAKING ~|~RACK AND PINION LEAKING
~|~119665 800 REPLACED THE STEERING RACK AND PINION ASSEMBLY AND FILLED THE
SYSTEM WITH NEW POWER STEERING FLUID.
SERVICE: FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SPLIT
DESCRIPTION: ~|~FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SPLIT ~|~FRONT LOWER
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SPLIT ~|~119665 800 REPLACED BOTH FRONT LOWER
CONTROL ARMS.

I know I have seen others with the rear main seal. Is this something to be worried about in the future? I would also expect a steering rack to last more like 250k or better. Does anyone know what might cause one to spring a leak so young?
I plan to ask about the the valley leak. No water pumps, radiators or starters have been replaced on this one. The AHC fluid has been changed 2-3 times and the "shocks" are about 20k miles old. I am still waiting on frame/rust pictures but I don't expect an issue with the TX truck.
The dealer just got this and has not put it through whatever inspection process they normally do. I hope to know more when that is completed.

Anyways any advice is welcome.
 
I think I have finally found an LX. I put some money down anyways. I was wondering if you guys could give me some last minute pointers on questions to ask. I plan to have this transported to me. It is in TX. This is at the dealer that originally sold it. They also serviced it and are now selling it as a trade. This one probably has the best service history that I have seen. The 120k service has been completed with the exception of the transmission fluid. I am not sure why that was missed when doing the transfer case and diffs.
It did have a couple of big ticket items done about when it was traded.

Code:
SERVICE: REAR MAIN CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OIL
DESCRIPTION: ~|~REAR MAIN CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OIL ~|~REAR MAIN
CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAKING OIL ~|~119665 1700 REPLACED THE REAR MAIN
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL AND CLEANED THE OIL RESIDUE FROM THE ENGINE AND
TRANSMISSION AREA AND 4 MILE ROAD TEST COMPLETE
SERVICE: RACK AND PINION LEAKING
DESCRIPTION: ~|~RACK AND PINION LEAKING ~|~RACK AND PINION LEAKING
~|~119665 800 REPLACED THE STEERING RACK AND PINION ASSEMBLY AND FILLED THE
SYSTEM WITH NEW POWER STEERING FLUID.
SERVICE: FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SPLIT
DESCRIPTION: ~|~FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SPLIT ~|~FRONT LOWER
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SPLIT ~|~119665 800 REPLACED BOTH FRONT LOWER
CONTROL ARMS.

I know I have seen others with the rear main seal. Is this something to be worried about in the future? I would also expect a steering rack to last more like 250k or better. Does anyone know what might cause one to spring a leak so young?
I plan to ask about the the valley leak. No water pumps, radiators or starters have been replaced on this one. The AHC fluid has been changed 2-3 times and the "shocks" are about 20k miles old. I am still waiting on frame/rust pictures but I don't expect an issue with the TX truck.
The dealer just got this and has not put it through whatever inspection process they normally do. I hope to know more when that is completed.

Anyways any advice is welcome.
Rear main seal is atypical but not a huge deal IMO

LCA bushings usually go longer but it could also be a very aggressive dealer pushing a repair… in my experience the bushings start to show a bit of cracking waaaay before they actually go bad and start allowing play in them

I’ve seen others with bad steering racks though again not incredibly typical. I wouldn’t worry though. I don’t think any of these are signs of something bigger
 
Does any one know what the deal is with the ipod? plug in the place of the aux?
1667519302427.png
 
pull up the console and follow the wire - I bet it plugs into a 3.5mm jack
It does not, at least OEM anyways. There is an intermediate harness under the cup holder for the whole panel.
 
Today I installed my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite in my 2021 LC. Everything went fine until I was cleaning up. That's when I noticed that the front passenger window wouldn't go up using the driver's buttons...

I had the battery disconnected so as to not set off the air bag. I was careful not to unplug anything that didn't need unplugged, and all the wiring was plug and play. After reconnecting the battery, everything works but that window using the driver's switch. The passenger side window switch works, but the driver's side won't control the front passenger window. It does work with the other three. So it doesn't seem to be a fuse, and I can't believe the switch just decided to stop working while I was fiddling around. So I must have done something.

When I turned off the ignition, I got a "window open" warning, even though the window was up. I manually cycled it using the passenger side switch, and the warning stopped.

Any suggestions as to what I borked? Thanks in advance!
 
Today I installed my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite in my 2021 LC. Everything went fine until I was cleaning up. That's when I noticed that the front passenger window wouldn't go up using the driver's buttons...

I had the battery disconnected so as to not set off the air bag. I was careful not to unplug anything that didn't need unplugged, and all the wiring was plug and play. After reconnecting the battery, everything works but that window using the driver's switch. The passenger side window switch works, but the driver's side won't control the front passenger window. It does work with the other three. So it doesn't seem to be a fuse, and I can't believe the switch just decided to stop working while I was fiddling around. So I must have done something.

When I turned off the ignition, I got a "window open" warning, even though the window was up. I manually cycled it using the passenger side switch, and the warning stopped.

Any suggestions as to what I borked? Thanks in advance!
If it’s anything like the GX you have to go the the door of the actual window and roll it up, then hold it in the up position for like 10 seconds. Then go back to the driver’s door. I think that’s the process. It’s been a while. 😆
 
If it’s anything like the GX you have to go the the door of the actual window and roll it up, then hold it in the up position for like 10 seconds. Then go back to the driver’s door. I
That worked! Thank you so much!!
 
How would you go about changing the color of Ironman springs? Short of buying new springs/suspension, is there an easy way to recoat them or do something like a rubberized plastidip?

1667758360381.png
 
How would you go about changing the color of Ironman springs? Short of buying new springs/suspension, is there an easy way to recoat them or do something like a rubberized plastidip?

View attachment 3160948
Spray paint? Fluidfilm + dirt? Moab mud puddle run?

Sand lightly and brush on some POR15 before installing. That’s the most durable option.

Really depends if your goal is for them to look show quality or just for you to hide the neon green.
 
Bed liner? I would not run them green any longer than it took to rattle can paint them despite suffering over-spray. My truck had less than 5k miles when I got it. It had FUGLY candy red wheels. They are in storage with new Ridge Graplers on them because no one will buy them.

You just have to bite the bullet and pay to eradicate PO bad taste.
 
Anyone had a leak from the front windshield wiper reservoir? Mine seems minor but want to find the source.
I pulled back the liner from the wheel wheel just slgightly and can see the reservuir, but think I need to take the whole thing off to really see anything. I've already broke a few of those darn clips. Any tricks to getting access?
 
Has anyone found a solution to stop Bluetooth auto play on an iPhone. 2016 LC and iPhone running iOS 16.1 for reference
 

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